PennSilverTaco's "Perfect 5-Lug Regular Cab" Build, Aspergers, and General BS MegaThread!

I think I will have my mechanic do that though...

Goddamn stealership!

 

Have your mechanic unscrew the rear diff breather, if a lot of air comes out it’s pressurized and not breathing. Most likely pushing gear oil past your axle seals. There’s been a few instances of this even read about it on other forums.

Whichever the case, a good mod to do is the rear diff breather (completely open both ways) and relocate it higher behind the taillight. Helps if you ever submerge your rear diff and keeps it from pressurizing. This is an aftermarket mod, the dealer won’t do it.

 

I have a 5-lug, I don't think I'll ever submerge my rear diff unless we get record amounts of rain and flash flooding here in the Philly burbs! I do agree with opening it both ways. One thing I do not get is why the right axle seal has not blown! Also, I've been having trouble finding the thread for this mod...

 

Here’s one of the threads, there’s a lot more. Also, here’s the part to use, it’s open both ways, you can use a fuel line hose that’ll fit over the end. I’ve done the mod with the much more expensive ARB one, but no need to.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-diff-breather-mod.409814/

$7 Toyota Genuine Parts - Union (90404-51319)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P2S0TKQ?colid=3LBJF1PVEYVXW&coliid=I11M7MN6NS7R2Z

 

Does that come put in order to flush/refill the diff fluid?

 

Just have them check for a bent axle shaft, it happens and it was the reason a friend of ours kept killing seals.

 

You mean the driveshaft?

 

That’s just the breather on top of the diff. The fill hole is much bigger and the drain hole is of course on the very bottom.

If you do the mod, spray some Pb blaster or WD40 on the original breather and let it soak into the threads. Especially if it’s 10 years old and never taken off.

 

No i mean the things your wheels are bolted (nutted?) to in the rear, theres one on each side. Whichever side keeps killing axle seals should be checked for true. A big enough pothole could bend one of the significantly smaller 5 lug shafts.

 

A wheel bearing was "notched"; A technician failed to mention this and got thoroughly bitched out by his manager the second time I brought the truck in. The dealership replaced the "notched" bearing for free, as well as the axle seal.

 

They should check that axle to make sure it is straight. Hell you can even check it yourself well enough just by jacking that one wheel off the ground and letting it spin in gear with some speed to see if it wobbles.

 

How much could this end up costing?

 

Whatever the cost of an axle shaft and the bearing /seal job is (the bearing and seal are pressed onto the axle shaft so they kinda have to be replaced if the shaft is found to be dicked)

 

Over $2,000?

 

Doubt it haha, I'm sure you can get an axle shaft cheap enough, 5 lugs are plentiful in the junkyards if it came down to it. The labor is the most expensive and it sounds like you've already paid for that before so you should know what it adds up to.

 

I know of a totaled 2010 RC 5-lug in a junkyard, but the axle (along with the engine and trans) was long gone...

I'm thinking of buying it for the cab and hood just in case.

 

@Speedytech7

It was wedged behind a Cadillac so I couldn't get the best shots of it...

 

Looks like an axle shaft for a 5lug goes for about $75 used in Junkyards near Pottstown, PA

 

Do I really want used? And do I have to remove the damn thing myself?

 

Most of the yards will remove it for you and you just pick it up on car-part.com

Used should be fine, kinda rare to have a bent one if that is what it turns out to be