Polish burn?

So attempting to fix a scratch (which I did fix) I may have burned a small part of the tailgate clear coat. Using a random orbital DA with polishing/cutting pad and griots garage fast correcting cream. Was barely even putting much pressure on it either. Is the paint really that thin? Attached are some photos. Is there anything I should do/can do to fix this? I’m really not too worried about it and you can barely see it unless you really look and I’m not looking to sell my truck. Thanks. (Also photo of before scratch).

 

I don't believe it's so much that's paints that thin but more that you have to be very careful with a buffer.

 

What RO DA polisher were you using? That looks way more like rotary burn..

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/15357-i-think-i-burned-my-clearcoat/

 

I doubt it’s permanent. Have some good wax? Hand wax it.

 

It’s a burn, been there with my MGM. Coincidentally I got in a fender bender with a tree so had it resprayed at the same time.

 

Rubbing compound should knock that right out. Apply it on with a small circular microfiber hand sponge and rub it out in a circular motion using mild pressure.

 

Something like this?

$35 Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, 20 Oz - Remove Scratches, Swirl Marks and Oxidation While you Restore Color and Clarity for a Showroom Shine - Safe and Effective on All Glossy Paints and Clear Coats

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o213DbG5KF8RF

 

I'm partial to turtle wax for knocking out scratches. It should have a gloppy sort of consistency and Turtle wax to me seemed to be the best one for that. Hang on let me see if I can find it.

Edit: here it is

Turtle Wax T-415 Premium Grade Rubbing Compound - 18 oz.

$7 Turtle Wax T-415 Premium Grade Rubbing Compound - 18 oz. , Green

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NMDFNY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_I913DbKP39V2R

 

Very hard to burn paint with a DA especially one that freely rotates like the porter cable, harbor freight, Meg’s, or cheaper griots. They will almost always stall before it gets to that point. A forced rotation DA will do it but you almost have to be deliberate. But I agree that looks like rotary burn.

 

I’ll pick some up. How is this different than what I used? Griot's Garage B110P BOSS Fast Correcting Cream 16oz

$25 Griot's Garage B110P BOSS Fast Correcting Cream - 16 oz

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0102R81W4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E.13Db9Z0BZVQ

 

Some rubbing compounds are less gritty than others. The Turtle Wax one I have used for years comes out in a nice gritty texture (but not overly gritty) when shaken and has given me a great success rate when done by hand. For the real stubborn stuff I used an orbital and it entirely erased it like it was never there. I would go as far as to say that it is so good, that I could see it being used as the go-to by top notch professional detailing shops.

I'm not saying that stuff you mentioned is not good by any means, but I have no experience with it, therefore I am more inclined to suggest to you what I have used in the past, as I know it will work for your particular needs and not leave you wishing you went with a different brand as I had when I was still experimenting some 15 years ago.

 

Hang on, am I looking at that scratch in the first picture or am I looking at the spot which is notable in the second picture which you are wanting to correct?

 

Looks like you hit basecoat? Burned the clear. What’s the final outcome?

 

I feel you man.
I tagged my front bumper just below the head light while doing a headlight restore.
Got carried away with the sanding disk on the drill.
Haven’t tried fixing it, yet.

 

Looks like a shadow burn, just move the emblem over top of it or re clear it.

 

If you burned through the clear coat, trying to use rubbing compound on it will make matters worse not better. There's no way you can add back clear coat through rubbing away on non existant clear coat since it's already burned through and now you're at base coat.

Definitely looks like rotary burn. Very difficult to do that with a DA or OA unless you caught the edge of the pad.

Instead of spending the $14 on rubbing compound, it'd spend $21 on this to confirm it's burned through

VDIAGTOOL Coating Thickness Gauge VC100 with Digital LCD Backlight Display Coating Depth Detector Measuring Paint Depth Car Paint Tester for Car Accident Detection

https://www.amazon.com/VDIAGTOOL-Th...+gauge&qid=1574930850&sprefix=paint+de&sr=8-2

 

You can have an experienced painter blend the clear and or back tape it and spray a little clear. A painter will know how to do it. Good thing it not on a top surface because blending the clear wont last long.

 

Your tailgate Needs to be refinished. No open blend no rubbing compound. Go to a Bodyshop. I’ve been a painter for 30 yrs. sorry for the bad news. Or put a sticker over it.

 

Looks like cooked on product to me. Get a dot of product on a MF towel and use your finger to try to remove part of it.

 

So I don’t really mind the blemish. More of a learning mistake for me. This won’t be open to rusting down the line will it? That’s what I’m mainly worried about. I probably will relocate the badge or maybe put on a collegiate metal badge over it or something.