MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Did you ever get this figured out

 

I have a small deadish zone. But if you get under and move the pedal by hand, you'll see that that it is actually moving the lever. If you get under and pop the inspection window and look, its actually moving the fork too.

 

Yes. You have to have a bit of free play to preserve the throw out bearing and not heat up the parts.

 

I didn't like the other options that I saw here, so I decided to go with a DOT approved flex line. If anyone is planning on doing this, I had a pair of sheet metal working vice grips laying around that perfectly clamped the line coming off the reservoir. All said and done, however, it looks really good and with NO leaks!


Stock shield off (4x 12mm):



It was about that time that I realized in order to get the arc needed to remove the fitting upstream of the accumulator, I had to pull the exhaust hangar. The upper aft bolt is a bit of a hassle, but with a14mm socket and a long handled ratchet, I loosened it enough to back it out by hand. Rather than blindly having to find that damned hole up on the transmission, I left that bolt in and backed it out just enough to swing the bracket forward and wedge it between the body and the catalytic converter:



With that out of the way, plenty of space to pull the accumulator and reinstall the 12mm hardware:



The line and fittings installed:



I know that most folks opted for a gravity bleed, but I wanted all the fittings tight and didn't want to have to dash under the truck in a cluttered garage to tighten clumsy fittings. It was a big enough PITA to tighten them down to begin with. Here is the line and fittings all set for a vacuum bleed:



Ran back up to the Vice Grips I used coming out of the reservoir and pulled them after installing a drain line to the bleed valve. Here goes the bleed... It only took about two ounces to ensure there were no small bubbles in the system. I figure for the pennies on the dollar in DOT 3, this is nice peace of mind. To those of you who deal with hydraulics on a regular basis should definitely invest in a Mightyvac. They're a lifesaver and keep your workspace clean:



All buttoned up and ready for a drive:



In hind sight, I would have purchased a 6" line with one 135˚bend in it and then I wouldn't have the excess getting in the way. At least now it feels like a clutch SHOULD. Before this, the progressive feel of the clutch was just odd. It would go down like halfway hastily, the tension would build across what felt like 1" of friction, then was heavy. Now, the clutch is linear, the friction point is predictable, and rev matching is much easier.

 

Stock accumulator completely removed, hard line put in. My clutch actually feels like a clutch. Not like sticking my foot in a puff ball. Not earth shattering, just changed to what clutch feel and action should be.

 

Best mod i have done so far for sure

 

OVT tune, 4.88 gears are 1,2 but ADM is easy 3rd.

 

Wow, you taco must fly! Thats awesome man!

 

I think dudes at the Mule shop liked it.

 

You know what I hated most about the accumulator? The delayed engagement, wait for it, in higher gears. I know it make zero sense - should not matter what gear. It just seemed more delayed and pronounced in 5-6. Weird. Now it's like my tranny is butter 1-6 and engaged when I want it to be.

 

I agree, it drives so much better , the shifts are smoother. The only thing that i regret is not doing it sooner.

 

I didn't even have 700 miles on it before I did it! That was long enough for me to make a discretionary call.

 

Did the delete a couple days ago following the PDF instructions linked in the first post by Sherwoods_Fleet, including the Autozone parts PAJX-312 and BLU-9C. Overall impressions are good -- it drives more like a "normal" manual and made it a bit easier to drive smoothly. In particular, it has reduced the bouncing you get on a less-than-perfectly-matched shift from 1-2. Was it a revelation, a real game changer? Not in my opinion, but it was worth the hour or so it took me to do it.

The hardest part was getting the bolts on/off the heatshield, there's not a lot of room to work there. Couldn't get the top-most bolt back on so I'm rolling with 3 bolts holding it on (I think we're good). I also couldn't entirely shut off the flow of fluid through the rubber hose coming out of the clutch reservoir (using a vicegrip), but maybe that was a good thing -- I didn't have to do anything special to bleed it, just let it gravity bleed for a few minutes once I had the new line hooked up. The take-up point is a bit higher in the stroke of the pedal, but it's not hugely noticeable and now the location in the stroke is very consistent. Pedal feels as stiff as ever (good), not spongey like some have reported...

Getting the new brake line fitting threaded into the cylinder was a real bear -- it just didn't want to go in, until it did. I notice the Toyota fitting doesn't have threads that extend all the way to the fitting tip, but the aftermarket does. Cleaned everything up and let it sit overnight in the garage with the heatshield off to check for leaks before driving it the next day.

I also used this as an opportunity to suck out all the (surprisingly) dirty fluid from the reservoir and replace it with ATE Typ 200, repeating this a few times as it bled so I think I accomplished an almost-total fluid change.

 

It's not really a dramatic change but give it a bit and I think you will start to appreciate how awful the accumulator was. You are probably right about letting a bit of fluid weep past your vise grip. I also was able to get away with only a gravity bleed when I installed mine. The biggest part about getting the fitting into the slave cylinder is bending the tubing just right so that you can thread the nut in by hand 90%. If it's tight at all going in, it will likely leak. Good move checking for leaks overnight.

I wouldn't worry about omitting the 4th bolt, but keep it in mind if you think you hear a rattle. I ended up accessing the top front bolt through the wheel well and was able to get it tight using some extensions and a wobble socket.

 

You are right on about giving it time. I did notice a difference right away, but i started appreciating it more after couple days of driving especially when i was revmatch downshifting. No more guessing, its direct.

 

This seems to have solved the cold weather clutch pedal not returning problem for me...

 

I installed the delete about 6 months ago, and after driving it a while its still great. Clutch definitely should have some this way from the factory. I do notice a much faster warm up time in the cold weather too. All in all 11/10 happy I did this

 

what kind of temps are you dealing with? At -25 and below, it’s still very slow to return for me. Then again, I’m getting a bit slower in those temps too.....

 

Hmmm, yup. -15C this morning and no sticky clutch!

ADM FTW

 

Mine is definitely better than stock. A little slow on occasion but like 1 or 2 cycles and it’s good