When is it time to change out brakes?

Sure, when they wear out. Correct? Last month @ my 90,000 mile service (2012 Tacoma) I measured rotor thickness (even run-out with a dial indicator), pads thickness, rear drums diameter and shoes thickness. Hard to believe but everything was way within tolerances. And I used high quality micrometers, inside micrometers and vernier calipers for measurement.

Living in the snow belt on Lake Erie the snow and salt plays havoc on all metal parts. My rotor calipers looked like heck and my rear drums about put me in cardiac arrest trying to remove them. Inside drum parts all looked good thankfully after a thorough cleaning. Should I continue to run with all these rusty items since my vehicle doesn't pull or make funny noises while stopping. Or replace now and move on. Yes, I should of taken pictures when I had everything apart. Curious on your thoughts. Thx.

 

I had a manual trans Scion with 140k miles on it and original brakes when I traded it in. Downshifting saves wear on brakes big time.

My manual trans Tacoma on the other hand is on its 2nd set of brakes at 85k miles. But she's heavy and offroading takes it toll on them

 

That said, if yours look rusty and unsafe from the elements it would be worth the peace of mind IMO at almost 100k to refresh the brakes. Don't want to take chances with that

 

It shouldn't be a struggle to remove the drums. There are threaded holes in the face that you can access when you remove the wheels.
First start with a wire wheel on your drill to clean around the hub where the drums have to slide, then throw a little oil or grease on it, thread some bolts into the holes, and crank them until the drums pop off. If they don't want to slide easily when you've cracked them free, then you just need to open up from behind and loosen the adjustor.

Regarding your rotors;
If there are any bands of rust, then you have a reduced contact surface area, so you'll want to turn them and change the pads.

Regarding your calipers;
They're made of cast iron and do rust. This can be especially important for the slots that the pads slide in. If they're rusted too much, the pads may stick. If this is the case, you'll want to remove the pads and knock out the rust.

 

What size is the screw/bolt specs to help back off the drums?
Metric or US.. ? 1/4 - 20 starts to tread but wrong pitch.. I assume it is metric.
UPDATE: Just did the job, it uses a 8 mm course threaded, 1- 1 1/2 (25-30 mm) long 13mm hex head, backs the drum off easily.

 

3 things you have to keep up with on a vehicle --- oil changes , tires and brakes . The rest you can kinda let slide here and there .

 

Turning rotors ?

Time & cost compared to just plain ole new OEM rotors ? and pads

 

It’s metric. Not sure what size though.

 

M8 x 1.25

 

Could be as cheap as $10 to have rotors turned at your local parts store like Napa.
If there is a lot of material left, it’s worth it.

 

If you don’t drive like an ass your shit will last longer.

 

Brakes are A LOT cheaper and easier to replace than a clutch. That stated using your gears to hold your speed on a long grade is good practice (regardless if auto or manual)