Chipped key question

Hello everyone, I'm a newbie to the forum, so if I listed this in wrong place I apologize in advance. My husband and I have been working on a project I purchased. Its a 08 Toyota Tacoma 4.0, automatic, 4x4 , double cab. The motor was locked up due to previous owner stopping in middle of oil change and then next day took off in it without putting oil in it. Any how my husband and I, who are seniors +, have taken on the task of swaping out old motor and transmission with one that only had 90k miles on it. The old one had 260K. But anyhow once I purchased the truck, which I was told they had 3 sets of keys and and key fobs and that the fobs would remote start the truck. But sadly they never could find them sooooo....we proceeded on with swap and finished it and had scheduled a locksmith to come make us a programed key. I did get dealership to make me a key to unlock steering so i could move truck around. Meanwhile locksmith shows up and this is when we find out there were a few fuses missing but got some installed while locksmith was there. He told us that we didn't need a chipped key.....so we tried to start the truck and thats when we found out starter wasn't wanting to kick in so we couldn't start the truck. I did question the locksmith about the red blinking car with pic of key in the middle and was again told that we didn't need a chipped key. So fast forward and after new starter installed, I went and hooked battery back up and the dog gone thing started right up. Hubby was still under the truck and giving me the devil for starting the truck. I told him I didn't start it, I only hooked the battery back up like he told me. So I ran around to one the truck door to see if I had left the key turned on or something, but it was laying in the cup holder. I did put key in switch and make sure it was in the off position. Hubby kept telling me to shut it off but I didn't know how key was already off. So I disconnected both terminals on the battery....that did nothing. By then he had crawled out from under the truck and pulled some wires off to get it shut down. Now this is where it gets irritating....we have worked for 4 days now on and off trying to troubleshoot why truck wont start. We it started on its own it ran perfect. But once we shut it down we never could get it to start afterwards. After doing some trouble shooting found that we are not getting any spark at injectors. More trouble shooting looking for loose ground or bad wire connection or break in wire somewhere. Anyhow we have swaped out bout cam sensors, installed another fuel rail and injector....maybe crank sensor...uuugghh! Told him to stop....I'm tired of climbing and crawling all over this thing! Before we pull that ac pump off to get to the crank sensor I am going to ask others on here if we have been given some bad info about the key. That red blinking car with key inside blinks even with switch on. Only time it doesn't blink is when we are cranking it but it won't start. I did have that remote start taken off tonight. Tried again to start it. Still only cranks. So should I call the locksmith back out here and have him make me a chipped key? I already paid him once so if he has to come back hopefully he will cut me a discount. So what do you all think? Sorry for being so long.

 

You have way too much info.

We can't help you make personal decisions, but we can help get it started.

If the red immobilizer light is flashing, the key needs to be programmed. The injectors will be disabled during this.

If there is no key programmed you need to tow it to a dealer for an immobilizer reset. It will then create a new "master" key and you can add addition keys as you see fit.

 

Thank you Bishop84, I think we were given some bad info about not having to have a chipped key!

 

Now after talking to a few other people who have remote starts, 2 out of the 3, now that they have remote starts installed can just use regular key and the 1 still has to use the chipped key so guess locksmith isn't totally wrong. I guess it must depend on brand and the way its wired up I guess. Goes to show we still aren't to old to learn. LOL

 

Saga still going on....since last post, talked with the locksmith and with some pleading, he came back out. He was positive it didn't need a chipped key so he had a ring type thing with a light on it and told me he was sure it didn't need a chipped key but would check it with that. If light blinked it needed a key made, if not then key I had would start the truck. So he was checking it and just about to tell me that the key I had was correct one ....then it started blinking! So got new chipped key cut and programmed. Was hoping all was well at that point....but not! Truck still cranked but no start. After several days of fooling with it again had to call for some help. It wouldn't give us any codes at first. Checked grounds, checked for short in wiring harness, fuel pressure, swapped out cam sensors....still no go. Buddy showed up with a much better scan tool than we had and tried to pull codes and found some stored codes. p0102 mas air flow, p0113 intake air temp circuit high output and b2799 engine immobilizer system. He cleared them and we tried again....B2799 came back up agian. So stood around scratching heads then started looking at wiring again where we removed the remote start. Nothing...so was checking around ecm and found a broke wire. Reconnected and tried again. Still won't start but B2799 code not coming back up. So some more head scratching and rechecking grounds and wiring....we have fuel, checked and confirmed with fuel pressure gauge, battery is good, checked with volt meter, still having problem with the pulse injectors...one minute they work but then they quit! UUUUHHHGG so frustrating! So we think we have it narrowed down to (1) bad ecm or (2) possible crank sensor. injectors won't open to add fuel. Atleast the immobilizer light still out. No other codes! Think the only reason maf sensor code was there before was due to trying to start it with it unhooked. So not able to work on it today due to my dog being sick and having to go to the vet. He is more important to me at this point. So anyone got any ideas, I'm all ears! One question, if I purchase another ecm, used or new, can I program it ourself? I thought I read on here somewhere that we could. Correct me if I am wrong.

 

Ok we got the new crank sensor installed...still won't start. So went to talk to 2 different toyota garages about maybe getting it in too them. Explained everything to both garages, both seemed to think its still a key programing problem, but I got 2 totally different answers on what needed done to program a new key that would work. 1 said tow it here and that it would take 4 to 5 hours to program a new key because they totally have to wipe everything from the computer due to all keys lost, total price around $500. 2nd dealer said tow it in and it would take about 1/2 hour to do, cost would be $120-$150. Locksmith that programed me a key was here about 15-20 minutes. So what is correct answer to how long it should take to completely clear memory and program a new key if all keys lost?

 

We charge about 155$ and it takes me about an hour to complete. I usually hook it up to a battery charger while it does the master reset.

 

This is a different vehicle, but we recently bought a 2014 Rav4 for my wife and I was given the $500 answer by the local dealer if I were to lose the key. If I have the key, a spare is about $150.

 

Bishop 84, from your response above I take it you make keys for toyotas....which leads me to my next question...the key which the locksmith made me does turnout the immobilizer light, so why do both garages think its not programed correctly or still a problem with the key? Its and after market black key with the dot on the blade. Could it be due to after market and not a OE toyota key?

 

Its not just the price I'm questioning, its is there a difference in what type programing or clearing that needs to be done to be able to program a key to work?

 

What I was told about the 2014 Rav..

I have the key already so to make a key is about $140-150, because they can match the computer programming from the key I have to the new key and not have to mess with the computer in the vehicle.

If I don't have the key it's $500 because they have to reprogram the computer to work with the key since I don't have a key to match it with.

Don't take that as gospel because you're a few years apart in vehicles but it sounds consistent with what you have heard so far.

I did get a key made at the local hardware store that will at least open the doors in the short term, just in case my wife locks her keys in the car.

 

Thanks ABA180. I'm going to put the bed and everything back on it and haul it to the toyota garage. I hope its only the key that needs programed. I'll have to check with them to see when I can take it in. Will post results once I get it done.

 

At the very least, you're not going to get any further without getting the key programming done. Here's hoping it's just that of course but you need that to know for sure.

 

Well today I had a 2nd locksmith check out the key and was told that key is being recognized by the immobilizer so dropped the truck off at the toyota garage this evening. So will post what we find out once they check it out. Thanks to all who have tried to help. I really appreciate all the advice.

 

Yay! Got my truck back today and it will start and run! They said that they made a new key and re-seeded the computer. Not sure what re-seeded means but it worked. I have a key which actually starts the truck now. It cost $360. That was more than what they quoted me but I was so happy its running I never argued and just paid them. Only problem is the shifter is still stuck in park so will need to check that out. May just be stuck from sitting so long. Any how will try and get that done then install drive shafts and on to regular maint issues like shocks, struts, brakes, ect. Lesson learned...if you loose all keys, don't mess with locksmith, go straight to toyota dealer. Even though locksmith says they can do it. Extra money spent for locksmith plus all the other parts I replaced due to locksmith telling me I had another problem, assuring me it wasn't the key.

 

SWEET!!!

In case you haven't, check the brake lights. I think yours can't be shifted out of park if they are out.

 

Got the transmission to working. The shifter on side of the transmission was froze up. Finally got it freed up and working. Also got the hard steering problem a little better. Power steering pump and rack and pinion seems fine. Found the little knuckle joint out on steering shaft almost froze up. Been soaking it with all kinds of stuff to try and get it freed up .... better but not quite there yet. Steering is still little stiff. Motor sounds sweet! Still haven't had a chance to pull vac on ac system yet. Hope no problems there. Still need to get front driveshaft installed but don't have the bolts so will have to wait till I get a chance to go get some. Its been a project but its all coming together! Got new tires and rims installed the other day so we got to at least take for a good test drive.

 

???? Is that a thing? So you have to get a ride to the parts store and change the bulb before you can drive it?

 

Not necessarily..there is an override button which should be near your shifter just in case.