Anyone know how to change alternator output for AGM battery

Troll alert!

 

that’s really lucky for you. I am a terrible driver my previous truck had been laid on its side multiple times. One specific instance probably 10 years ago, dropped a tire into about 2 foot drop. Truck pretty violently flopped on its side. My friend after we put it back on all fours said we got fluid in the ground. We pop the hood to investigate. I was hoping I didn’t crack another radiator. Low and behold the little plastic cover over one side of the battery was off and most if not all the water had poured out. I don’t carry distilled water but I did have some bottled water in a friends cooler. That went in and I was on my way. So yes the damn things do spill, I have had it happen to me.

edit: the reason it was probably about 10 years ago is ever since then I have always swapped out for agm.

 

You got me good, boss.

"I flip my truck frequently". Is the best reason for installing an AGM battery. Hands down.

When I flip my truck, the last thing I want to deal with is battery acid. I need to get that bioootch back on the road.

 

I wish I could say I was a better driver and that it is not really a problem but, yeah. For me honestly not spilling is probably the number one reason for switching to agm.

 

How do you handle other fluids? E.G. gas, oil, coolant, Slurpees (c)

 

No slurpees. I only once had gas come out a vent line near the filler neck. Never happened again and it was a small amount. Coolant seems to be like oil, it depends how long and what angle. I have had it come out the overflow hose of the reservoir. And if it was over for more than a few minutes I try to make sure to give it time for the oil to drain back to where it should be. I always check the ground for fluids after going sideways.

 

Done feeding the trolls

 

I cant tell if that was supposed to be a joke or if you were being serious, but in 30 years you have never seen any battery corrosion? Here is a section right out of the owners Manual describing using baking soda and water to clean corrosion off the battery.

 

He's trolling with chit bait.

 

Sure my battery terminals get crud on them. But I keep them clean. Baking soda and dielectric grease.

Letting them corrode until your cables are eaten away then going out and buying a new battery is idiotic. Are you trolling me?

 

I will just agree to disagree with you brother. Buying a battery that did not cause corrosion was not idiotic just simply a solution to a problem.

 

This was my measurement after a longer than normal drive home while idling:


Not really that far off from yours, but a bit different. I'm at 28k and over about 2.5yrs old battery.

 

I've seen corrosion work its way up inside battery cables internally and no amount of cleaning and baking soda will prevent that. You have to peel away the insulation to see it.


I used to replace battery terminals and cabling all the time as a fleet mechanic. Instead of pre assembled cabling we stocked terminals, cabling and heat shrink and were expected to maintain our own cabling and terminals.

The battery terminal/clamps also suffer wear from repeated cleaning and will eventually need replacement. Not so with AGM batteries, the cabling and terminals remain clean and corrosion free.

And you know what I'm talking about so go find another thread to do your useless silly troll bait tactics. You bring no useful info or real world experience to this thread.

 

TY for posting that as that is exactly what happened. It was not lack of maintenance on my part as I was probably cleaning the terminals 4 or 5 times per year, tried those felt washers and corrosion sprays and nothing stopped it.

 

LOL, I am just about to turn 28K too, my battery is probably a few months older though as i have a March 2017 build date on my truck.

 

I wonder if for some of us it is environment thing. We have so much salt air and water around here that rust and corrosion just destroy things. Maybe where the other guys are at it’s less of a problem. I have replaced many sets of wire under the hood, I did notice that the better sealed the cable the slower the corrosion was. I used to heat shrink and silicone all wire ends right up to the terminals. After replacing some expensive aftermarket audio power wires under the hood I took extra precaution to protect them as best as I could.

 

Yep. I'm June, 2017.

I'm happy that it cranks well even with some drain (light, accessories, and such).

 

Silicone outgassed acetic acid. It just speeds up corrosion.

Is that trolling too? LOL

 

definitely not trolling. I didn’t think silicone would outgas acetic acid? Acetic avid is vinegar right? Never had that smell. Haven’t needed it since I switched to agm? I used to use some permatex on spark plug caps and other stuff under the hood for water fording protection.

edit: permatex ultra grey it says non corrosive. It does say it’s silicone....so I don’t know, but it seemed to work for me. I know I used on my transfer card when I built my dual case and used it on both 3rd members when I rebuilt the front and rear axles.

 

YO
For what it's worth... I just got the Offgrid engineering side-by-side kit and loaded her up with 2 g35 Odessy pc1400 extremes. All fat an happy, @Maxcustody chimed and to tell me the stock alternator on the 3rd gen can't get to the 14.7 or whatever volts it needs to fully charge.

Dammit dude i hate these rabbit holes!

I ran down to the local AutoZone and got an AGM charger and threw it on. House battery was at 87% and the start battery at 82%.

I figured short term i can charge them occasionally manually. But long term, swapping the starter battery with a led acid, and then using a dc-to-dc charger for the deep cycle should be the way to go. Thoughts?

I'd love to be able to tinker with the ECU and up the voltage.