Anytimebackupcamera.com Install- Front and Rear Cameras

Oh snap. Did not know that. Don't know why I had it in my head that those wires were unused. I think those just need to be tapped into the illumination circuit. Now, where that is, no clue. I know there's a thread on here where a member is planning to make harness that simplify this process but I don't think they've been produced yet.

As for the LEDs, both illuminate when the front is active. I don't know why it was designed that way. It's fine for the rear.

Also, for anyone who wants to add the override harness later, it's as simple as is shown in the video a few posts back. Hardest part will be mounting the switch somewhere. I've got it lying below the front hood release lever for now.

 

Is the light blinding at night? If not, then the laziest way to wire is a fuse tap in the cig lighter fuse. That will make the light turn on/off with ignition.

 

Not sure, since I haven't got it to light up yet... ha. Yes I'd be curious how others have done the illumination hook up. Based on reading many threads here on tacomaworld and watching a bunch of youtube videos it seems everyone taps a different circuit by splicing in or using an add a fuse.

 

The light already turns on/off with ignition via the red wire. I have a MESO cubby switch plate and put it in the top row so it's usually masked by the steering wheel. It's not so bright that it is a detriment to night time driving.

 

did anyone else have the green wire come so short that it wont reach the switch and require additional wiring, crimping, and soldering?

 

For those who have wired the camera power through the same 12v source that powers up the relay (12v from the switch) instead of powering the camera from an ignition sourced 12v fuse tap (ignition on = camera powered up), is there any "warm up period" where the camera needs a couple seconds of juice before it is at full brightness / resolution, or does it instantly come on with good, clear view?

I have no need for anytime backup cam, so am just wiring to energize the relay and camera with the same SPDT 12v switched source from the switchpros. Switch on = camera power and relay energized (for front camera) / front camera displayed on head unit. Switch off = no relay / no camera power / normal screen on head unit.

 

@Clarky4×4

 

I guess it'd depend on the camera you use. I have the Nakita and it takes ~1 second to come up fully. I don't think there's any perceivable delay in "camera on" to "picture normalized".

 

I used a Natika camera for my stand alone set-up, where the camera and monitor are both normally off. They power up only when I turn the switch on. It takes about a second for both to stabilize with a clear picture. I see no reason to have either powered up all the time.

 

Ok, thanks. I also picked up a Natika. So if I'm following this all right, and I power the camera (along with relay energize) through the camera's two power leads (hot and neg) and via the switch on the switchpros, the red tag wire coming out of the RCA's is not needed, correct? Guess I'm not understanding why the camera needs power via the power cord, and also needs to see a 12v hot on the RCA red tag wire.

 

I think you are correct.

 

Yeah, this was frustrating me, so went down to truck and got the multi-meter. There is continuity between the camera red power wire, and the red tag wire coming off the RCA. No idea why the camera would need a "always on" power source and a trigger power source (which the red wire coming out of the RCA presumably is) when there is continuity between them, unless there is some special magic inside of this tiny camera I'm not understanding. Unless that wire is supposed to feed back to a head unit trigger (which seems to be indicated in the Tanika cam wiring diagram) to trigger some head units to switch over to video feed. That seems the more logical explanation, but would be unnecessary as with the anytimebackupcamera harness, that is not needed (even though anytime backup camera's website shows connecting this to the hot coil side of the relay (relay energize) and to the DPDT switch 12v out (relay energize).

My head hurts....

 

I used the red tag wire coming out of the RCA cable to provide 12vdc when the relay is energized.

 

Okay, spent some time, laid it out and worked through the thread and a couple videos, and got it figured out.

I'm using the switchpros for a SPST function, and the red on the override harness (black on the older harnesses) will not be needed for one thing. In the way it is set up by anytimebackupcameras for using a DPDT switch (anytime front, anytime rear) it would be used to provide common ignition sourced 12v to the to the common on the switch, but as I'm using the SPro which will provide 12v when switched on, I'm good without the 12v common feed from the override harness / head unit.

For the other, I see I will be powering camera from the switchpros output (12v when on) to the camera power cord. I will then use the RCA red tag wire at the camera to pigtail into this so that when I hit the switchpro to power the camera, this read wire at the RCA / in the RCA cord will also send 12v back to the cab area and be utilized to both energize the relay coil to switch the relay to the NO contacts for the front camera video feed, and also trigger the head unit to switch from normal nav screen to video (camera view).

Thanks for the assist. Wasn't clear at first what I needed to do to wire this up differently than the DPDT switched anytime front AND anytime rear set up gave, but I got it once I had a few minutes to clear my head, lay it all out, and check continuity on a couple things.

 

I just cut wire 17 (to allow address input while out of park) and soldered in two wires to add the switch- have never used the switch, anyone know what it’s needed for? Everything seems to work fine with the wire cut.

 

I’ve gone through these now 40 pages a few times but don’t see how to get the switch background lights to work or where to tap the power from. I’d like to just jump from a nearby lit switch to do it but I’m afraid of shortening something out. I’m fully capable of the electrical work but would feel better if I had something to go from.

 

Head unit doesn't lock out when you are out of park, it locks out when you are actually moving. You can be in drive, and stopped, and enter anything you want. It's when the truck starts moving again that it locks you out....until you "open" wire 17.

 

X2

You and I are in the same boat.

 

and it seems to sinking and the Coast Guard is on the wrong coast....

 

I guess I never tried it stopped and not in park.

still want to know why the switch.