AGM BATTERY CHARGING - ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE BOOSTER

I have to also add that Ford makes a 1 amp one way diode as well which is a 100% direct fit for our trucks for those looking for alternatives to GM and Littelfuse. I just got mine today. There is no need to trim anything on the housing to fit it in and it fits 05-14 Mustangs Econoline and various other vehicles.






Just to add on to how easy this mod is, it dropped right in and imediately boosted me up to 14.7-14.8 volts at initial start. In Ford I trust.

 

Did you need to disconnect the battery to do this? Is this safe for our trucks? ie. not going to start the thing on fire.

 

It won't make it catch on fire. I disconnected nothing to do this. It was a simple remove 7.5 amp fuse, insert the new one in the direction shown in the photo. Start truck and go.

I would only do this if you have an AGM battery or are towing because towing adds additional strain to the electronics.

 

I understand why y'all do this but isn't it over-working the alternator after a while?

 

No. All alternators are designed to charge lead acid batteries to 14.0-14.4V regulated. There is a voltage regulation diode within the alternator (Usually. Sometimes they are external.) which caps off charging to the voltage posted above. With unregulated voltage, alternators are capable of charging all the way to 15V if not more. There is no additional stress being placed on the alternator. Toyota simply modified their alternator circuitry in order to meet ever stringent federal emissions standards. We are in essence restoring the circuit back to what it would be without the additional fuel economy savings. (Which is highly negligible savings mind you. I am still getting the same economy after doing this mod)

 

I just did this same one today. I purchased the diode from my local Ford dealer for $13.xx, part number 4F2Z-14A604-AA. I have an X2 AGM battery. Took a few pictures along the way, nothing exciting though. I did notice that my headlights and fog lights seemed a touch brighter (H4 Philips Racing Visions and H11 GE Megalight Ultra) which is always a nice little tidbit. Though I don’t have a LUX meter to verify....some day I will get one. Time will tell if it helps out the battery, it certainly can’t hurt. Thank you very much guys!!



Voltage @ idle before was 14.17





After was about 14.72 is where it stabilized.

 

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread! I knew the charge voltage was low, but had no idea I could fix it so easily! I did the littelfuse fix, and bought a spare. $8 for 2.

 

Just installed this along with an AGM BATTERY, at idle it was about 13.7-13.9 and with the FORD diode, it’s idling at 14.5-14.8.

 

I was just thinking about the ford diode in my F350 when reading this.

 

Is this ford diode suitable for 2016?

 

No. 3rd gen charging voltage is controlled by the ECU.

 

so just curious how you knew the correct orientation

 

Use the diode tester on the multimeter.

 

OK Tnx

 

If u have a voltage meter. Or have a way to monitor your voltage like one you put into cigarette lighter. If you put it in one way it will read normal voltage. If you turn it around it will raise the voltage 0.5

 

Yupper..Im ex Ham KB2OM for many years, also retired Utility Plant , understand diodes and their function etc....looks like you have some experience in this area also,

 

for those without a multimeter or diode tester, if you put it in backwards you will get the battery red warning light on the dash signaling no charge from the alternator.

 

I bought the Ford 1.0 diode. Some parts websites say “Fused Diode”, some don’t. It does say 1.0 printed on the part.

Does anyone know for certain that it has a built in fuse component?

I really don’t want to test it on a different circuit with more draw to learn in-person.

But the question did come up in another thread and made me wonder if I’m risking a potential hazard if it’s actually not a combination fuse/diode.

 

I put in the GM diode and I am aware that there is a very, very, very, very slim chance of a fire IF that 1 wire between the fusebox and the alternator were to short to ground. In a perfect world, yes, it should be fused, but I feel there is a greater risk in life of getting hit by a bus while walking down the sidewalk. However, I am always looking at ways to improve things. There would be an easy way to test the Ford diode/fuse theory. Put the Ford diode in an inline fuse holder. Hook up some 18 gauge wire and a 1 amp load. Then a 5 amp load. Then a 10 amp load. If nothing is getting hot by that point and the diode still has continuity, apply a direct short.

@crashnburn80 You game?

 

I bought two.

I guess I can be the guinea pig and try to sacrifice my spare for the betterment of the TW 2nd Gen Community.

Lord knows this will be one of the cheaper ideas this website has cost me.

How’s this test idea...spare battery, in-line fuse for sacrificing spare Ford fused diode, connected to AC inverter and a heat gun?