Frame replacement campaign Parts List and request for suggestions

My 2005 Toyota Tacoma (4.0 L, 170,000 miles, double-cab, with cap) has severe frame perforation and will be replaced as part of the "...Class Action Settlement..." frame replacement campaign.

For those who have not read the "...Settlement...", I have attached an image with language that describes "...applicable parts and service items incidental to frame replacement.." as well as an image of the actual list of parts that will be replaced with the frame during the frame replacement.

In addition to the parts and items incidental to frame replacement that will be replaced, I intend to also have the cab mount bushings, engine mount bushings, fuel filter, fuel pump, and toe bar replaced. Of course, I would need to pay out of pocket for these parts while the cost of labor should be either zero or extremely minimal.

I have every intention to drive this truck for the next 10 years and expect to get well over 300,000 miles, so I am prepared to take advantage of the opportunity to wisely upgrade parts at this optimal time. Outside of the parts on the list and those that I mention above, does anyone have any other recommendations for other parts that I should consider replacing during the frame replacement?

Thank you in advance for your time.

 

I am currently in the process of getting mine replaced. I have an 05’ with 130k miles. I replaced upper control arms, sway bar links, front axles, transmission mount, fuel tank straps, exhaust and manifolds, and rear shocks. Mine had some major rust issues. I bought it NY and I failed on my part on inspecting it thoroughly. The guy had it masked well with some CRC. Lesson learned on my part. However, I feel like I made out with this replacement. The Toyota dealership allowed me to go get the parts my self so I was able to save a bunch of money. I saved over $5k just on that. Manifolds and cat/exhaust was $3,200 just for parts. I got good aftermarkets for around $850. OEM A-Arms were $350 each. I got Mevotechs for $70 each. Front axles from Detroit axle, $35 each. Cheaper then buying boot repair kit. I didn’t plan to replace much more but had to get brake cylinders and hoses replaced as they were seized and he had to bleed to system and get off. That cost me about $800.

It is interesting reading about the “as well as applicable parts and service” and looking at the parts sheet. Where did you get the parts sheet from?

This will make me question some of the other stuff they are going to charge me for. They said there is about $300 in nuts, bolts, fasteners that had to be replaced.

I get it back Monday and stoked to see it. Overall, I am going to have about $3000k of my money invested into it, but it’s practically a brand new truck from the body down.

 

Thank you for the post Awatt005! The Toyota dealership that is doing my frame printed off the parts list that they were provided and provided me a copy (I asked for a copy)... The rep I spoke with said that the list of parts is everything that is being delivered with the frame. I would ask your dealership to print off and show you the parts list.
Then after doing so, I highly recommend you show your dealership the language of the settlement as well as my parts list and if they don't sync, then ask them why...
The frames that are being delivered to dealerships across the country are supposed to come with all of the additional parts that are required through the settlement and mentioned in the settlement.

Thanks for the sharing what you decided to replace. That will give me some additional ideas..

 

Thank you for the post Awatt005 and moorej42, my Toyota is at the dealership waiting for frame replacement. It may take 2 months to have it replaced, so they gave me a rental till then (Rav4). I really appreciate the shopping list that you both provided. I will talk to the dealer to see if they will replace them if I provide the parts and hopefully with minimum labor charge.

 

If it was me,the day I drive it of the dealership lot with a new frame,I would have that puppy undercoated and I would make that my annual maintenance item. Find somebody to do it ,or do it yourself. All the new parts are secondary to fighting corrosion.

 

Great post both MooreJ42 and Awatt055!! I have a few primary questions if you don't mind:
How have both of you made out with the dealerships doing your R&R jobs? How much "extra" items did your respective dealers try to charge you for?
Did the Frame job come with new Lower Control Arms? or did the dealer try to charge extra for them? What other suspension related components did they cover?


I bought new back in 2006, my Double Cab Short Box 4x, 4.0L, 6MT (still original clutch) with 220k miles on her so far... I have had issues as many have, but i love the truck and want to see it go over 300k at least. I am about to try the compass fix with solder and i will try the 4x actuator solder fix after my truck comes back with the new frame and rear leaf springs that Toyota is about to Warranty...

MooreJ42: You wrote above: "I intend to also have the cab mount bushings, engine mount bushings, fuel filter, fuel pump, and toe bar replaced."

Is there anything else you'd do now in hindsight?

Do I assume correctly that you both still have Stock (suspension) trucks?

Thanks for the insights !!

 

Does anyone know where to find the most current parts list for the frame recall on an 07??? I have looked and can't seem to find it. The dealership says I could have UP TO a $4,000 bill

 

I can understand that feeling of frustration. However, you don't have to have ANY bill, if you don't want one. Please understand that I'm not being a smart guy - I just went through this. They quoted me $17,000 of repairs, and I almost fainted. The good folks here on TW walked me through it.

If you want the full story on my '07, you can read it here. At the end of the day, you have a right to go see your truck. If you have a private mechanic you trust, and you want them to come along with you, that is also your right. You can see the truck once they have it apart, and make your own choices on what they do. Of that $17,000, I chose to have $1000 worth of work done to drill out and replace the oil pan bolts. Because they weren't bolts anymore. They were rusty things from another dimension.

I wish I had known that I could have brought my own parts to the dealership. The guys here have been amazing in selling decent parts with mild use on them for reasonable prices. There's also rockauto.com - you can get parts much cheaper than the dealership.

Post up what they're telling you needs doing, and some pics. The guys here will take care of you and help you breath your way through it.

 

ProfHobbit:

Thank you for your thread and story line page! That was a great read and is quite reassuring that what I too have to look forward to won't be as bad as i could imagine it being, especially after seeing others who were throwing around quotes of $12,000 and $17,000 also in quoted repairs.....
I have owned my truck from day 1, and i'm shocked - mostly at myself - for not seeing the deterioration of the frame as it was happening.... I guess as One Day at a Time happens, one doesn't easily notice the changes happening. I think i'm at week 6 now of the 4-6 week before the new frame arrives to my local (St. Augustine, FL) dealer.

I see some similarities in my rig to your pictures, and while i don't drive in a winter salty road environment, I do live one half mile from the ocean and certainly the ocean air contains more salt than inland areas do, so i live in a saltier environment and can see the damage it is causing with my other components underneath.

I have a ton of miles on my truck (about 220k) unlike yours, but now that Toyota is going to give me a 2018 Frame and rear springs, I am planning to see it roll over 300k, maybe 400k....

Somewhere in your thread @kyledamon mentions that "at some point in time someone is going to come across yours thread and find it interesting" which is Exactly what occurred with me, so Thanks again for posting.

What did they tell you about the surface rust on your rear axel? Mine, while not as advanced as your pictures indicate, is similar.
Here is what i'm looking like now, pre frame swap:

 

You're very welcome, I'm delighted that it is helpful for people. I got off easy - not in terms of the corrosion damage on my truck, which will take me a couple years to fully catch up to - but in terms of a dealership that did the right thing, and did the thing right.

They would have been quite happy to replace both axles, diffs, etc. And they do need it. That said, they really didn't say anything about the rear axle. This was the write-up on the front axle:

REPLACE FRONT DIFFERENTIAL (FRONT DIFFERENTIAL ASSEMBLY EXTREMELY RUSTED)
$2,622.78

REPLACE FRONT AXLE SHAFTS BOTH SIDES (FRONT AXLE SHAFTS EXTREMELY RUSTED)
$1,318.62

They would have moved lower on that price, if I had done it while the truck was apart. Remember that they bill all their labour and parts to Toyota. I signed an invoice for $11,000 or more (can't remember exactly) that was payable by Toyota. I had to sign because it was my truck. So, they basically have billed some of the disassembly/assembly time already. If you can tap into that by handing them parts to put on, or purchasing the parts from them, you get a significant savings on having the work done.

I couldn't swing the cost of the parts for the diffs and axle shafts, so I had them bolt the original rust-buckets back on. The tech was really good about it, and just told me to keep an eye open for fluid weeping out of the diff through rust/stress cracks over time.

So I guess the answer is that you can have it replaced for less than the quotes above, especially if you get your own parts. Or, you just have the originals bolted back on, and keep an eye on them. Yours are in better shape than mine, for sure.

 

This post may have just saved me thousands. My truck is going in for the frame replacement within the next couple weeks and the dealer already told me to start saving up for incidentals. Hahaha Service manager told me they wouldnt put my truck back together if i didnt pay for all new bolts and stuff.

 

Sorry to hear that. The more of these sort of posts I read, the more thankful I am for the experience that I had at IRA Toyota of Danvers.

I guess generic advice is all I've got. Try to keep the relationship from becoming adversarial, if you can. One simple thing to do is politely ask for that statement in writing, on his dealership's stationary, before any work is performed. That will allow you to escalate it without "he said, she said" coming in to play. If you happen to have a friend or acquaintance who is a legal professional, have them visit the Toyota frame settlement website, look over the language there, and advise you. Forewarned is forearmed, but hopefully tact and firmness can keep everything positive.

 

Excellent article and string.

Toyota has agreed earlier this month to replace the rusted frame in my 2009 Tacoma. A few days after that inspection, my power steering line rusted thru so the vehicle is now basically undrivable. My local Toyota dealer & Ask Toyota both say the poweer steering repair will be much cheaper to fix when the frame is exposed; either way they tell me I will have to bear the cost. This leaves me with a 2 to 3 month wait without a drivable truck. The settlement agreement states on page 5, line 24 that "Toyota shall use good faith efforts to satisfy that request", i.e. provide me with a loaner pick-up during the wait period. I don't see that happening, however:
Question: Is it possible that the rusted frame in some way caused or contrubuted to my power steering line failure? Thanks for any advice. Eric White

 

Hi there! I’m getting my frame replaced right now. It will be ready in the beginning of next week. Here is what they suggested me to change: all aftermart parts:
Water pump, tensionner and 1 idler pulley (all due to be replaced, i kinda knew all those parts were due) + 1 hour labor charge: 600$ CND (they accepted to take in the spare serpentine belt i had already)
Rear shocks (220$ cnd)
2 small front bushings (120$)
One cab mount bushing (120$)
1 Axle link ? Not sure about the translation in french it’s called cardan (134$)
they were talking about 300$ worth of bolts and hardware.
And another part that has to do with the steering? I managed to find second hand (100$).

as an extra: At my demand
One mass air flow sensor (280$) i feel so dumb about that one (i could of ordered it before and changed it myself!) for probably half the price!
2 door hinges (tired and loose door)
1 aftermarket del rear light (160$) free of charge to install.
Labour to install two second hand brandnew condition oem headlights.
Whole second hand pickup box replacement (free of charge to install) i brought the other box in!!
i also brought a chromed bumper with accessories except licence plate lights. (a little work for that). Just great timing to see the new bumper on with frame replacement.
Also brought in a second hand muffler.



do you guys find they’re pushing too much?? I don’t mind paying for the water pump and front pulley job since the truck is arriving at 300k miles in a couple weeks and the motor taken out like that. what a good moment to do the job!
I had a check engine on for a while and got it checked recently before the recall just for no surprises: 2 codes p0101 and p2a00, so i got a mass air flow sensor ordered and brought in my own oxygen sensor in (air fuel ratio) bank 1 section 1. At least i got quicker on that one and ordered an original denso sensor from a friend mechanic and saved 100$ from dealership price (i paid 180$ instead of 280$). He ordered online. The dealership accept to replace it. Along with the muffler, Im fact i was using steel wool to block the hole for temporary but very satisfying results.
I Changed the air filter and motor oil just before the recall. Brought in a replacement muffler since mine was really getting noisy. it will be replaced with no fees since they have to take it apart anyway. I’m hoping the check engine light will be turned off when it will get out next week! At least i’ll know my truck will be more than fit when it will pass the 300k!!! Here in Canada we use the kilometers so I’m past 488000 km right know so this 500000 km thing is getting ready to be seen!!! 500k km is equivalent to 300k miles.
I also am a bit disapointed because the chief mechanic told me i have a leak in the front part of my rear differential (which i know was not there before). It’s where the driveshaft seems to kind of attach. I saw it because i was there yesterday for a followup on my truck. I wanted to check it out a bit. The seal has to be changed. I don’t know what to do with that. Get it done there? Any tips? Probably It costs a fortune to get a rear differential oil change there.
Cheers everyone!!

 

That's a bit of a tough call. I was of two minds on the situation. On the one hand, I wanted the really thorough defect list, so I would know what to replace on my own time, later on. Having dealership prices as a point of comparison was useful as well.

On the other hand, all you have to do is take a car to a dealership for an oil change, and suddenly they have "noticed" all kinds of things wrong with it. My other vehicle is a Prius with almost 210,000 on it. I was constantly declining unwanted service when I would take it to them.