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castle nut problems

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by ToyotaTacomaTruck, Dec 22, 2019.

  1. Dec 22, 2019 at 2:20 PM
    #1
    ToyotaTacomaTruck

    ToyotaTacomaTruck [OP] Member

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    Stephanie
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    Black Metal Flake Extra Flake Black Smoke Head Lamps
    Need help badly castle nut problems outer tie rod two day ago did the Pinion rack bushing we have a nut problem

    15770528308601635620750552665898.jpg
     
  2. Dec 22, 2019 at 2:57 PM
    #2
    Indy

    Indy Master of all I survey.

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    Replace it. The rubber seal looks shot anyway.
     
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  3. Dec 22, 2019 at 2:58 PM
    #3
    hualampeter

    hualampeter Well-Known Member

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    if you have a thread kit that salvageable, if anything just count the turns when unscrewing the tie rod and replace it with the same count back in.
     
  4. Dec 22, 2019 at 3:06 PM
    #4
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Is the issue the threads are buggered up? If so, in the past I've used a file or a grinder and cleaned up the jacked threads and it's worked.
    If that is what you're asking or saying
     
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  5. Dec 22, 2019 at 3:10 PM
    #5
    zero4

    zero4 Metal Cutter

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    Thread file or thread chaser will easily fix that. I bought this set 20+ yrs ago and has saved me headaches countless times working on peoples' cars. This set includes thread files also.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Dec 22, 2019 at 3:13 PM
    #6
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    I need to get a decent set....
    Sounds like a good Christmas present to gift myself :D
     
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  7. Dec 22, 2019 at 3:20 PM
    #7
    zero4

    zero4 Metal Cutter

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    Another old mechanic's trick is to make you own thread chaser. With a small cut off disc, grind a slot in the nut's threads. Trickier to do on smaller size nuts and of course easier to do to a bolt. You've probably noticed that certain OEM bolts have a groove cut into the tip, this serves the same purpose.
     
  8. Dec 22, 2019 at 3:28 PM
    #8
    Rachelsdaddy

    Rachelsdaddy Well-Known Member

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    I do this all the time! It works the cats ass. Cut a slot right through the nut (one side of course) at a slight angle so the edge is in your favor. Little oil and it will cut the boogers out. Or, grind the top down 1/4”..... you got room
     
  9. Dec 23, 2019 at 1:27 AM
    #9
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Something like this is easy to clean up with a file .

    Once you do it enough a grinder makes fast work

    Just how did you bugger up the threads ??
     
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  10. Dec 23, 2019 at 2:45 AM
    #10
    jmferg

    jmferg Well-Known Member

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    get another nut with the same thread pitch. Carefully cut in half with a cutoff wheels. Re-assemble the two halves of the nut at the bottom of the stud aligning them on the threads and clamping them on with vise-grips. back the nut halves off working up the threads with a little oil. there you have a DIY thread tool.
     
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  11. Dec 23, 2019 at 7:24 AM
    #11
    CrustyTaco

    CrustyTaco Well-Known Member

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    I picked up this set a few weeks ago and I've already used it a couple times. Well worth $17.
     
  12. Dec 23, 2019 at 8:23 AM
    #12
    Timmah!

    Timmah! Well-Known Member

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    But, tap and dies are more aggressive than a thread restorer and will remove a lot more metal. I only use a tap and die set when the threads are seriously mangled and I have no choice.
     
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  13. Dec 23, 2019 at 8:27 AM
    #13
    Timmah!

    Timmah! Well-Known Member

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    I own the same set. The one I bought was sold by Craftsman a couple years ago but I guess Sears got this kit from the same supplier that others have stamped their name onto. I've used this kit lots and lots of times to clean up threads. It's well worth the money. Here's a link for anyone interested in owning the same set: https://amzn.to/33HdFRo
     
  14. Dec 23, 2019 at 9:32 AM
    #14
    jbrandt

    jbrandt Made you look

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    In a pinch just use a file to clean up the threads a bit.

    You honestly don't even need those threads (they aren't structural), so just carefully file them down and clean them up and put the nut back on.

    As others said, it may just be time to replace those anyway.

    A trick for next time is when you take the castle nut off, put it back on up-side-down so the bolt covers the cotter pin hole (essentially to reinforce where the hole is) and it should leave an little bit of a recess on top so the tool can't slip off, then use a pitman arm puller to pop it off.
     
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  15. Dec 25, 2019 at 2:02 PM
    #15
    skeezix

    skeezix Well-Known Member

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    Take a good look at the rubber boot. Any signs of cracking = replacement time. Cost around $40 from the internet.
     
  16. Dec 25, 2019 at 3:00 PM
    #16
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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  17. Dec 25, 2019 at 3:10 PM
    #17
    Hobbs

    Hobbs Anti-Lander from way back…

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    Yep…
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    Rock Bangen', Desert Tamin', Gold Findin' Machine!
    Hello Larry? Are you there...? Larry...?
     
  18. Dec 25, 2019 at 3:51 PM
    #18
    Indy

    Indy Master of all I survey.

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  19. Dec 25, 2019 at 5:36 PM
    #19
    wht95scort

    wht95scort Well-Known Member

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