Beware aftermarket Ebrake cables.

Got a set of duralast Ebrake cables for my '06 dclb. They were less than half the price of the OEM cables and I got to use up a couple gift cards the kids got me.

I should have gone OEM. <<< do you know how hard that is to do to yourself?

The cable for the drivers side was to short. The insulation for the passenger side cable is a joke compared to oem where it traverses the exhaust. Looks like the OEM cable itself is jacketed in the sheath, or outer jacket. Aftermarket is just the bare cable in the jacket.
All the listings at several stores nearby have the wrong length cable spec'd for the drivers side.
My old cables have an orange band at the drum end of the cable. One of the new ones did as well. The short one, had a black band.

 

Once again, you get what you pay for. Ugh!!!

 

So you are complaining that....
1) You bought the wrong length,
and...
2) They're ugly?

 

My complaint is that all configurations call for the same cable for the drivers side in their catalogs. 2dr, AC, dc long and short bed.
The cable assembly that was the correct length is installed as I needed it. However, they only give it a 90 day warranty, so they know it's not going to last long.
Think cheap bicycle brake type cable and jacket. If the actual cable had a coating on it, I think it would be ok. This one is gonna rust inside the jacket

 

Find a better seller who has the proper parts listed, like Amazon.

 

10 pages searching "Toyota Tacoma parking brake cable" one relevant result. Dorman. The pic looked just like what I had. It did not however have a pic with the orange band.
Looks like we both need a better source...

 

What's your complaint about Dorman?
Its not like it could be any worse than what came OEM. Your pictures prove that.

 

This TW member had good results with Raybestos.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/replacement-parking-cables.630554/

 

@Muddinfun thanks for that link! Ya, I should have researched a little more. What I see at the Rock Auto site looks much better. Less $$ as well.

 

I have read that the replacement of this cable is a bitch.
I think it is due on mine.....

 

It actually wasn't that bad. I did it without removing the console. That did make it more difficult. Hit the clamp mounting bolts with some PB blaster or such and give them a little crank tighter before breaking them loose.
Otherwise it's doing a brake job...

 

So, I bought myself the raybestos cables for Christmas and the quality is outstanding compared to compared to the duralast cables.
They came with all but 2 mounting clamps that were easily removed from the original cables. They were even marked L,R on the drum end. The cable itself is jacketed so it won't rust in the sheath anytime soon.
They were less expensive than the duralast by almost 1/2. That made me leary, but I took the shot and it paid off.
@Muddinfun thanks for that link!

Edit: unbolt the armrest and slide it back. That'll make securing the jacket a breeze.

 

Very nice. Thanks for the update. My ebrake is working fine, but I know the aluminum pieces at the backing plate are broken. I really should order a set.

 

Dorman is just another way to spell Harbor Freight.

 

That's why I replaced mine. Didn't want them freezing up this winter. I use my Ebrake all the time and set it before I take my foot off the brake. IMO it saves the park cog from unnecessary stress loading.

 

I’m about to tackle this so pointers would be appreciated.

 

Soak the clamp bolts with pb blaster or something. Lift the rear end and pull the brakes apart and remove the cable from the back plate. Unbolt the cable clamps and pull them back so they're straight coming out of the floor pan. Pull back the grommets. Way back.Theyre long, I was surprised
I've got the automatic, so I removed the shift knob and trim. It just pulls up. Then empty the console, pull up it's floor and there are 2 10mm bolts to remove and 2 Phillips head screws the were under the shifter trim.
Then unbolt the shift cable bracket. It'll make getting the drivers side cable easier to work. 2 horseshoe clips and the jackets are free. If you pulled the grommets back far enough you'll have slack to get the end of the cable off its connection.
Getting the cables back on was a bit trickier... I eventually used a pair of vice grips with juuuuust enough pressure on the cable to hold the spring back, giving me another inch or 2 for reconnecting the cable inside.
Hope that helps.