TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

5345 is the HR equivalent to the

$9 IKH22 Iridium Power Spark Plug, (Pack of 1)

IKH22
4901 is the HR equivalent to the

$12 IKH24 Denso 5346 Spark Plug

IKH24

I hate it myself. The stupid seems to turn on at the most inconvenient times when it knows I'm working on it and wants to scare me.

Which booster did you use? The ALT-S fuse diode swap hack mod or the selectable voltage booster mod?

That circulating coolant cannot cool anything down unless it has airflow otherwise it is just circulating the hot coolant through. The only reason the coolant flows after the truck stops is because the EVAP system is being purged at the same time and that requires battery power to do so, and since the circuit is now shared, both will run at the same time.

Just about all the users here who went HPT route did it at home with a laptop and their MPVI2 module. It's incredibly easy once you get the hang of it and in no time you become pretty pro at doing so. Welcome and congratulations on your decision! I think you will be quite happy with the power levels you will have with the boost you want to add to the heavy truck. It's game changing man!

 

I was having a similar conversation yesterday when one of them asked "Are you piecing your truck together one part at a time?". Yes. Yes I am.

I've had this affliction for over ten years now, and loving every minute of it.

 

I bought the selectable unit. Shipped pretty quick from Australia. I think I got it in under 2 weeks. The diode I hear works but figure for a bit more I can get the selectable one and have options. I have it set to add .6 volts right now. I try to leave my fridge on 24/7 so its getting some work. Also run solar but its winter time so thats useless right now.

 

I run a 1.0 amp diode made by Ford. It boosts me up 14.8 volts when needed and regulates down to about 14.0 volts once charging has settled. See quote below for the info.

 

To add my $.02- My truck is also heavier and when I put on the SC about 60k ago, it woke things up. Then I put on a smaller pulley, upgraded fuel pump, and a couple of other things mentioned on the front page of this thread and am very happy with things over all. I don't have a tune yet, but when I do I'll be going with the HP tune and @JustDSM for the assist. Heard nothing but good things...
One more nugget for your thought process- make sure you address your drivetrain before you add too much power. If you're auto trans, make sure you do the valve body mod, and if you're manual, look into a stage 2 clutch, hydro bearing to replace the OEM throw out bearing and clutch accumulator, and just for giggles, a short throw shifter (Hurst is preferred). If nothing else, consider the accumulator delete kit, it will help with clutch slippage and engagement delays. There are many, many other things to consider that may or may not apply to your application, but just know that you are in the right place and anyone here will be willing to share their experience, mistakes or otherwise, to help you sort it out. Bottom line, you will not regret it, but be prepared to go down the rabbit holes of all rabbit holes.

 

nice, mine is around 14.5ish at start then settles to 13.7 - 14.1 when running. I can add more if I want. I thought about the diode. so far its working.

 

@12TRDTacoma ,maybe i dont understand but i have a temp gauge on my coolant line. when the truck is off i see the coolant temp rise quire a bit. it cycles, then drops back down. granted im parked but isnt it cooling things down faster than if not?

 

Just to add to this, you guys would be incredibly surprised how neutered the TRD Tune is in its base form. When I switched down PCMs which had just the Virgin base tune on it prior to flashing my HPT time back into it, I noticed a major difference in power delivery and throttle actuations from my foot over to the throttle body. After flashing it, it made me realize and made me happy with my decision to put as much time and effort as I have into the HPT program with JustDSM as my guide.

I highly recommend the valve body mod... Line pressures can be stepped up and increased within the HPT program, but without the physical bores enlarged and the solenoid springs strength increased like the valve body mod makes you do, your hinderance is still on the hardware side and the software increases of line pressure values may only cause issues down the road if you cheap out and go that route alone. You are much better off hitting the valve body mod first THEN increasing line pressures if you want more nuts out of the tranny.

Hey I can't argue with facts. If your coolant line indicates cooler SCTs then it actually does indeed work, however, I really don't see that being beneficial while at a standstill unless you are drag racing the thing and are hot lapping.

 

Thanks for your response. Would you still recommend this route even if using a 2.85 pulley? The cover page writeup recommends it only below the 2.7 pulleys.

 

Anything above 2.8 is not recommended. Its when stepping down sizes below 2.8 that you run into having to do more supporting mods.

 

Thank you. So far from my research it seams this size is the middle ground between being "satisfied" with the performance for the money, and entering the vortex of no return as it relates to cash depletion.

 

Yeah it sort of is.

 

Got some new plugs the other day. Thought these maybe fake from the new packaging but looks like they started this new design 2018. Nowadays you gotta check the real from the fakes.

 

I get mine through URD. They have pretty good prices and I trust them not to be knock offs from them

 

That’s what mine looked like when I got them the other day and installed them

 

I got these from my local Napa store. They were 9.60 a piece and no waiting for shipment

 

That packaging is nothing new. That's how mine have been looking since 2015 actually.

That is good to know! I always struggle finding these locally and I usually have to wait for the plugs to be shipped in from another store or location from the one I am buying them from. The NGK ones for me seem to be a lot more accessible than Denso so it works out for me either way.

 

What's up @1sandytaco, looks like we're neighbors. The thinner air up here at SLC elevation takes away ~2 lbs of boost and a 2.7" pulley basically puts it back to where a 3.0" would be at sea level. Mine is currently the stock setup and I'll be putting on the 2.7 later this week.

Let me know if you want to check mine out, I'd be happy to help.

 

+1 to all of this - @LGOPs504 and @12TRDTacoma are spot-on!

Even if you don't THINK you'll go smaller than a 2.85" pulley, @1sandytaco, recommend going with a quick change setup and 2.8" pulley. Doing so will future-proof you on the pulley front, IF you ever decide to take the plunge into smaller ones (and supporting mods).

 

The ratiotek or a diff setup?