Help, changed oil filter housing(aluminum) and now leaking

Changed the plastic housing like some suggested and now out leaks non stop. Thinking of going to the dealership in the morning and change it back to the plastic one.
Used to be so straightforward to do an oil change .
This is the one I bought.
Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly

$22 Toyota Genuine Parts - Cap Assy, Oil Filter (15620-31060)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BHP68A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_d8rdEb38ZR7E8

 

Seems to have a couple of possibilities.

Flawed part

or

Flawed installation

I'd certainly 'start over' by examining the part and double checking my installation before showing up at a dealer.

 

Does it leak at the point where it attaches to the engine, or from the drain port at the bottom? In either case, the most likely scenario is that the o-ring was damaged during installation. Pull the housing off, examine the o-ring from the effected area and replace if necessary. If the o-ring isn't the culprit, look for damage to the threads, or sign of defective casting. I have one of those on mine, and it doesn't leak a drop.

 

Did you put the o-ring?

 

And did you oil the o-rings?

 

and is O-ring in the right groove? and is the valve on the bottom used to evacuate the oil in the filter tightened as well?

 

The aluminum cap is machined on the loose side in order to make it less compatible with housings intended for plastic caps. Sometimes they work, sometimes they leak.

 

Yes, oiled the oring, maybe I should take it off, use new ring and try again?
Valve tightened, leak coming from housing .

 

If all else fails go back to the plastic one

 

No! No! No! No!

The forum gurus who whine about bruised shins, dry eyeballs and humongous rear seat headrests said this was a must do mod that is foolproof.....no one said it would leak and no one mentioned that Toyota phased this part out because of galling concerns.

Then again, most of these guys also bitched non stop on how hard it was to find the correct drain plug, can’t read the dipstick and argue incessantly over which oil is best.

Sorry, gotta run. Need to chime in on a thread about how to use the gear lockout. We just logged the third post of the day from someone who thinks it’s a sport shifter.

 

you are not the first person to post up same issue.

 

I have 2 of those. One on wife Camry and 1 on my taco before I went to Baxter conversion. Never a leak from any of them. Have the one from mine in the garage as spare just in case.

 

My neighbor broke his on his Camry using a breaker bar (trying to loosen it from a previous oil change from a local garage). It was a Sunday and he came to me panicking, completely unaware they were available aftermarket. I drove him to Autozone and we picked up a metal Dorman for $30. 20 minutes later all was good.

The fitment was perfect and the quality was excellent. Zero leaks.

https://m.autozone.com/collision-body-parts-and-hardware/oil-filter-cover/toyota/camry

 

Retro fit a legacy Toyota aluminum oil filter housing to fix a problem that doesn't exist...and now you have a real problem. What was wrong with the OEM housing?

No worries, there is a simple fix. Put the superior OEM housing back on. There are a number of morons who trash it simply because in their peanut brain, a weak ass die cast aluminum part is better than a high strength polymer part.

 

Seems to make sense that the aluminum would be stronger man but obviously it is not the same fit.

Addendum to story. I was not able to get the plastic housing loose after valvoline boys says that it was too tight. In the end I had to chisel it loose before the tool that fits over the housing could turn it.

Going to the dealer in the morning to get the plastic housing and new seal.

Thanks everyone for your quick responses. That's the beauty of this forum.

 

X2, there is nothing wrong with the Factory plastic housing.

 

I have no issues with the OEM one. Just don’t over tighten it. Needs a little more than hand tightness

 

These things are sealed by an o-ring not a gasket. There is no reason to torque these housings down. I light snug is all that's required

 

The OEM filter box will show you exactly where to place the O rings. Best of luck.

 

I have thought about the aluminum unit but haven't bothered. The composite one works and as long as it always installed properly with a torque wrench and the threads are lubricated before install it will he fine for years.

The o-ring is the sealing device, not the threads. If there is no damage to the housing like a crack or gouge, then the o-ring is damaged or incorrectly sized for the unit.

Edit: When torquing I use an appropriately sized torque wrench. I use a ⅜ drive wrench that maxes out at 75 lbsft , not my ½ drive one that it maxes at 250 lbsft.