Budget lift..

I know this topic has been discussed pretty often but I'm not understanding the negative outcome of this type of lift. I'm talking about 5100s with a spacer. I know it's a ricey, all bark no bite type setup but aside from that, what's being risked as far as suspension components if I mate it with a set of JBA control arms and a diff drop? Any negative experiences? If so, please elaborate.

 

I bought the spacers before and have them on my truck now but just got the bilsteins for all four corners today and I'm trying to get a bit more than the 2.75 inches that the 5100s provide

 

Just do a ready lift level kit on the stock suspension.

You don't need upper arms, they ride fine without them.

Don't do a front diff drop, I don't put them in on any Tacoma lift now. And many companies are advising against it on the 2016+ models.

 

What's a ready lift? Is that just spacers? Because that's what I have now. I'm trying to fit some 33s and they'll rub bad with the current setup

 

That's not an option haha it definitely gets beat.

 

33's rub, its a fact of life.

SPC upper arms help, but it will still run full lock. The only answer is a cab mount chop, and if done first can save a lot of money.

If you're thinking of a 5100 set to lift, plus a spacer, it will be too much angle on the suspension, 3" is max.

 

If your trying to get like 4”+ inches by stacking the spacer on top, that is the wrong way to go about it.

 

You will drastically limit the suspension travel.

 

How hard is it to cut the cab mounts? I have the Bilstein 5100's with the toytec coil and coil spacer (JBA UCA) and am currently running 275/70/17s on a 17x9 wheel (-12 offset) and one inch bora wheel spacers. I already had to cut off some plastic and want to fit 33/12.5/17 KO2's

 

It's not hard to cut, but to fill and weld it shut is the part that requires talent.

Sometimes offroading shops know how to do it, just need to phone around.

 

Seems like you're talking about maxing out the Bilstein settings AND stacking a spacer on top.

It's your truck, but I would heavily advise against doing that.

1st off... the diff drop isn't going to even come close to fixing the CV angles. A diff drop doesn't even do much for the CV angles with a normal (I.E. 2.5 inch) lift.

2nd of all... Bilsteins maxed out (without a spacer, just at the top clip setting) are a horrible ride. The ride is harsh, and everything in the truck will seem like it's rattling. Add a spacer on top = horrible.

3rd of all... you're up travel is going to be non existant... meaning you will probably experience a TON of coil bind... that's how you break shit. The coils will hit each other on up travel, which means at that moment you will have absolutely no shock or coil dampening. The impact (I.E. pot hole, speed bump etc) will be put directly on your shock shaft and shock mounting tower.

4th of all... You will have too much down travel... meaning your shock will become the limiting factor in the down motion of the suspension travel... meaning if you hit an undulation that causes one side wheel to droop... you will blow your shock... if you haven't already blown them on up travel.

5th of all... your CV axles spin when your wheel spins... at those angles, your CV boots will not last long.


I'd suggest forget about the JBA UCAs, right now... you don't need them. Lift your truck 2.5~2.75 inch with Bilsteins set at LOWEST setting and get the lift with a good set of coils, and do a cab mount chop... Or don't do the cab mount chop and run 265s for now... or go skinny tire with 255s

 

how do you like the bilstein with toytec coil with the 5100? Also what weighted coils?