Show off your aux fuse panels.

Mount them facing down, I got plugs for mine. Then I coated the bottoms with dielectric grease. These applications are what it’s designed for. Otherwise, mount everything in a Otter box or other similar container.

$10 Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3oz. - High Performance Dielectric Grease Used To Protect Terminals, Spark Plugs, Wiring And Other Electrical Connections Against Salt, Dirt, And Corrosion

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-220...ric+grease&qid=1577943937&sprefix=diel&sr=8-2

$18 uxcell DC 12V/24V 80A 5-Pin Wire Cable Relay Socket Harness Connector 5pcs for Car Truck

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-5-Pin...s=auto+relay+connector&qid=1577944020&sr=8-25

Or get water resistant relays.

$25 TRUE MODS 5 Pack 5-Pin 12V Bosch Style Waterproof Relay Kit [Harness Socket] [12 AWG Hot Wires] [SPDT] [30/40 Amp] 12 Volt Automotive Marine Relays for Boats Auto Fan Cars

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MTQNJKM/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Thank you! Im going to order those water resistant relays. I had dialectic grease on my relays after they corroded, but it still didn’t feel it stopped water getting into the relay itself, just protected the connections.

 

I also put a sub panel under the cup holders along with my compressor relay so rather than push several #10 wires(sub panel main feed, seat heater feeds, compressor relay main feed, and sub panel ground buss feed) through the firewall grommet I ran them along the frame and installed a grommet next to the one under the driver's seat. I'm only pushing #18 wires through the firewall grommet. Daystar makes one that some have placed near the main grommet as well to push larger bundles and there's a 22-pin bulkhead connector you can get from DelCity but it's only good for low amp circuits.

 

Thanks! I'll make sure to look after them. I was contemplating making a plastic cover for the footprint of my panel, but for now I'll just let it ride.

 

May be a bit off topic but I’ve searched “the big 3” cable change on the 3rd gen forum and couldn’t find anything about it. Is this something that most of you with the aux fuse boxes do? The more research I do on learning for my truck on YouTube the more videos and stuff I see they peaks my interest. Anybody done the big 3 on here? If so where is the engine block cable located? Thanks y’all

 

I wouldn't say"most" but anyone with a winch or other really high amp draw items could benefit. The battery-chassis ground cable is a undersized if you add much of anything and ground your accessories to the chassis instead of B-. What most do for just an aux fuse box is run a separate cable for that along with a ground buss with a ground cable to B-. Do the upgrades you need for what you add.

 

I have, but I'm a second gen.

 

Yeah I’ve actually added the 100amp fuse box with 12 30amp circuits and I’ve got that grounded to the chassis ground the battery grounds to. I upgraded my positive and negative wires to my battery to 2/0. Was just wondering if I upgraded the other two if it’d help and if I were to do that where the engine block to chassis ground wire is on the 3rd gen V6s. I’m running several different items to my fuse box and I’ve got it attached to a 100amp circuit breaker as well. relayed Light bar 310watts ditch lights 30 watts. Non relayed 125 watt powered sub and a 180 watt power pack amp. Not sure if I’m really straining my 130amp alternator with these or not as I really only use the light bar and ditch lights on back country back roads without traffic which isn’t often. I’ve tried to make sure a use at least one size up when wiring my aux components and fuse each wire right before they’re connected to fuse box. I’m a little confused on what size battery fuse to get for my actual battery post since I’m running wire 2/0 that is capable of 250amps plus and I’m running a 100amp circuit breaker and fuse box

 

130A at 12V is ~1500W so you should be fine.
Fuse for the weakest link but generally we don't use a fuse and a breaker on the same cable, just keep the cable that goes to the breaker short like the oem cable that goes to the stock fuse box. Everything after the breaker is protected by it so your 100A fuse box is properly matched to the 100A breaker. The fuses in the fuse box protect the wires in each circuit so size those wires for the current drawn by each device (amps = watts/12V) and fuse to match the wire. Size up the wire for longer runs if you don't want to lose power in the wires.

 

Thanks man! Appreciate the time and I feel better after reading bc I’ve pretty much followed what you’ve said to the T

 

I have a Viair Compressor that I'd like to mount under the hood. States on the compressor body that it uses 30amps. The current inline fuse to the alligator clips is 40amps.

Do you think it'd be safe to run a 35amp fuse off my Bluesea fuse block to the compressor? Or how ill advised would it be to run power from two posts with 20 amp fuses on each?

 

No. If one fuse blows you end up Immediately blowing the other. It's also a No-No to use 2 wires unless each wire is rated for the full current. For accessories that are over the limit you need to run a dedicated fused wire direct from the battery or from it's own fuse/breaker next to your blue seas breaker. 30A is right at the limit so try it with a 30A fuse in a single circuit from the blue seas block. Whatever you do be sure the wire is rated at or above the fuse/breaker value.

 

stick a relay in the circuit. run some bigger gauge wire (10 or so) to relay power from the blue sea with a 40A fuse, and from the relay to the compressor. you can run smaller wire from a switch (can also be powered by the blue sea) in the cab to the relay with a separate fuse so that both sides are protected.

 

Good call. I'll try the 30amp and see if it hold and run that through a relay and switch in the cab. Thanks for your help.

 

Make sure you run it under a load to see if the 30A fuse blows.

 

Cool switch with remote can be found here! (not bad for $50 compared to $550 for the switch pro, and the best part is you don't need to run wires through the firewall)

It seems to have the relays built in. You can do ditch lights, bed lights, light bar and backup lights as long as they're below the amp rating, 60A total. The unit is not waterproof, so you might want to install it in a WP box like

$20 Bud Industries CU-3285 Plastic Style A Utility Box 8.25" L x 5.15" W x 3.12" H, Black

this. Remote is rated for 100', but may lose distance if installed in said box...



Found here

 

Simple setup, ready to accessorize..

 

With the Fuse Blocks and breakers are inline fuses still used in addition to?

 

Typically either a breaker OR inline, followed by a fuse box or fuse on each power wire. If it makes sense how I’m saying it.

 

So both is not needed? Any benefit to have both?