is rear main seal worth it during clutch DIY?

135k mi, '08
Is it worth replacing the rear main seal during a clutch job?

What sealant do people use?
Olathe Toyota parts catalog online shows the seal as 90311-A0006 installing into case 11381-31010,
but I don't see listed a liquid gasket sealant part number, to put a bead of onto the case

What do people use?

I searched for repair info on workshop-manuals.com and it didn't even show the case being removed, but just the round seal itself pried out to install a new one.

I've heard before of Hondabond HT, Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, etc. but am unsure of which is best
the latter (Ultra Black) is what I see one guy used on his Nissan/Infiniti:



I hear it simply has to be an "anaerobic sealant" meaning non-breathable

 

Not sure on what to use, but if your going to be in the general area where it's easier to get to, go ahead and change it. Preventive maintenance saves your ass sometimes

 

I work as a diesel mechanic on over the road trucks. Unless the
the rear seal was "just" replaced and the customer does not want to replace it,
we always replace it. If you don't it will leak, probably. If you have my luck.

Don't know what year this one is. He
removed the retainer and did the seal
off the truck. Only problem doing it that way
is making sure when reinstalling the retainer
you don't scrape off the sealer on the oil pan.
Probably would be ok though. Just be careful.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiSnW_JWBhA

Here is one for a 2008 with auto trans. but that
shouldn't make any difference. It plays fast
and doesn't really show it all. It appears they do not
remove the seal retainer.
If it was mine I would use a screwdriver and pop
out the seal unless the retainer is leaking and then
just tap in a new seal. That's just me though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mBwIae2pDBs

 

There is no sealant that goes on the seal. It’s just the seal itself. Yes replace the seal your already there.

 

I agree. The seal is probably a $2 part and the hardest part of a RMS replacement is the removal of the transmission. It would be foolish NOT to replace it while you're in there. Especially over 130k miles.

 

Rear main seals are pressed into a casing. The casing bolts onto the back of the engine. That casing has mating surfaces where a liquid gasket is used.

 

The housing in which the seal sits is usually not removed. To replace the seal, simply pop out the seal and reinstall a new one.

 

Ooops. I see what you mean.. I'd say any hi-temp RTV sealant should work. The manual doesn't say to remove that cover when replacing the seal, just says to carefully pry out the seal.

 

Shit. I’ve done a few of this on other vehicles and didn’t even know that part came off. I always just pried out the old one and tapped the new on in. Learn something everyday. Thanks.

 

Joe, I think you're still doing it right. The old manual says to pry it out with a screwdriver..

 

According to a professional engine builder this is the correct sealant for a rear main seal. It has very different properties than RTV/silicone. He formerly built engines for Crower, Ultra Racing Boats, Eliminator Motorsports, and many other well known companies. He was also a professional drag boat driver.

 

Why would you not re-seal the housing with new sealant



~5:00 shows the housing being re-sealed with Black RTV



let me get this straight,
with $700+ in clutch parts,
over 8 hours of labor
and a new seal

you're going to skip removing a few bolts on the seal housing to put new RTV sealant,
because you're hoping that after the truck is put back together, it will start leaking from the dry old silicone on the housing that's 10 years old with 100k+ miles,
instead of putting new $7 sealant

which is like a lower oil pan leaking,
except instead of simply dropping a lower oil pan to clean it up, this one requires trans removal

 

Change the rear seal. There is no need to remove the seal adapter if it's not leaking- it mates to the oil pan and is doweled to the block. You can remove it, but it is extra work and you'll need to seal it to the pan - which is difficult to with the pan attached since the adapter is doweled to the block and presses against the pan to seal to it. The rear seal adapter should go on first, then the pan. To each their own, but if the logic is to remove it because the sealant is 10 yrs old, then you should do the oil pan using the same logic. I have removed the seal adapters and replaced them without dropping the pan, but you are adding unnecessary risk because you're wiping off the sealant to the pan when you install it- because it's doweled.

Pry out the old seal as shown in the FSM. Lisle makes a great seal puller tool for this- it works fantastic. The seal housing has a thru hole for the seal, so you'll need to get it aligned and flush at installation- it's not hammer in until it stops.

 

Your are correct if he’s gonna remove the seal housing, the correct way is to remove the oil pan then the housing. Reinstall the housing then reinstall the oil pan.

 

is there any difference between OEM seal 90311-A0006 for $40
vs Mahle JV1709 (Autozone shows as compatible) for $20?
both look brown

Is there an online copy of the FSM?

Which puller?
Lisle has a couple.

shaft-type:

regular type:

low profile adjustable:

I hear on some cars it's recommended to take a regular puller and file it thinner on a bench grinder

and lastly I see a regular adjustable one

 

Imo. Running down to the dealer and spending the extra $20.

 

Absolutely do it OP. There is a member here with the clutch out and discovered a leaking seal at 40k. Probably rare but on yours why take the chance of having to pull the transmission again when a little extra time now can provide some peace of mind. At least that is what I would do....

 

Ha! This. I bought one at auto zone. Can't remember the packaging but not Mahle.

 

This one. It's not necessary for this job but it works great.

There is an online copy of the FSM. Not sure where but there are multiple links to it here. Maybe someone has the link handy.

 

I just pop my rear main seal out tonight using a screw driver. Just be careful not to score the crankshaft or the rear main seal cover plate. I wouldn't replace the sealant on that cover plate if it's not leaking. By that logic, you may has well replace your head gasket, oil pan gasket, valve cover gaskets, etc. every time you change a spark plug or change your oil.