Extreme Cold Weather Woes - Fluids?

I’m running amsoil everywhere and my truck is much happier in the extreme cold (f&r diff, trans, engine oil).

I’ve done the ADM, during extreme cold it can still be sluggish but usually after a few pumps and a couple minutes of running its fine.

 

I haven’t noticed any cold air in the foot wells, but I’m usually wearing appropriate footwear for the weather. Maybe there’s a gasket around the pedals or wire loom that’s loose? Get under the dash and look?

My truck warms up to the first bar on the temp gauge at idle, even at -30. It won’t blow hot until I start driving but it’s enough to defrost the windshield. Keep it in 3rd and lower (on my auto I keep it on S3) to keep the revs up to make more heat. Should be good and warm in 5-10 minutes even at -40.

Get the damn block heater installed. It’ll help cold starts immensely, save a ton of gas, save a ton of wear on the engine, and the truck will heat up faster.

Amsoil in the gears and whatever synthetic 0-20 in the engine.

 

Go all out. Block heater, oil pan heater and a battery heater.

 

Agreed, though I’d probably go with a battery charger instead of a blanket.

There’s several shops in Fairbanks that’ll do the work, Kendall Toyota charges $495 for winterization (block, pan, battery heaters) and it’s worth it to me to let someone else deal with installing the block heater. Where did you buy the truck and where do you live?

 

My truck has no problem starting up in -30c with or without block heater, but I get that same power steering squeal that goes away rather quickly. It’s a great cold climate vehicle IMO. I’m considering blocking half the radiator since I’ll be doing short trips all February and would like it to warm up quickly for longevity’s sake.

 

It isn't unusual for an engine to cool down at idle in low temperatures. Cylinder pressures are low so there isn't a lot of heat created to counter act the cooling. The thermostat will close, reducing or shutting off flow to the radiator and do it's best to maintain the temperature but the HVAC system on to heat the cabin can still be enough to drop coolant temperature. The HVAC system operates on a loop outside of the thermostats control. Putting something over the grille or the radiator will help reduce heat lose from the cold. Try blocking about 1/2 the rad to start and adjust as needed. Just remember to remove the blocker when the temperatures raise again. This may also help the P/S system and the clutch by raising the overall temperature under the hood.

As for the HVAC leaking, the seals could be shrinking in the cold weather, or they just aren't sealing well. If it is an issue you could try duct tape over the joints to reduce or eliminate the leakage.

 

Just saying...,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hyNshwyrtGY

 

There’s great pie at the gas station they filled up at at the beginning of the video, and good grub at Chatanika Roadhouse.

 

According to my truck it was -19F when I left the house, halfway up Ester Dome. By the time I reached Gold Hill on the Parks Highway the truck said it was -26F and the road signs were saying -30F. Denali State Bank on Geist said -37F.

I warmed up the truck for about 5 minutes after being plugged in for 1.5 hours this morning (on a timer). The temp gauge moved to just under the low mark by the time I got to the Parks, about 3 miles roughly downhill from my house off of Gold Hill Road. Keeping it in S4, I had full heat by the time I got to the top of the hill on the Parks leaving Ester/Gold Hill area, roughly 3 miles, and shifted in to D and never lost heat the rest of the way. I did sit an idle for a minute at a couple lights and while the temp gauge did drop a little it never drops below the low mark. Turning down the fan speed helps, if I run the fan on 4 at a stop light it'll start to blow cold but on 2 or 3 it stays warm. I have an SR, not sure how those HVAC settings compare to the OR's. I do have half my radiator blocked with cardboard, but it hasn't really changed how fast it heats up imo. Amsoil Severe Gear

$28 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 in both diffs, regular Toyota 0w-20 and coolant in the engine.

 

I just bought a 6-speed manual this summer and when the temp dropped to around 0F a month ago, I noticed the clutch sticking down a bit. Everything else worked great. Started right up. No squeals. No problems with the heater. I'll see how she works when it actually gets cold here (Minnesota). It's been a very mild winter so far.

 

Surprised your battery hasn’t crapped out yet in that cold. I’ve been through a few. Let the truck warm up some then drive it. Clutch will always be stuff until it warms up some. Just cold all fluids need to warm up a bit in that temp.

 

Have t read through the entire thread but have watched a few videos on extreme below 0 weather and it’s the reason I went with Amsoil but Mobil 1 did just as good.

 

Cant speak to the fluids or clutch feel. But I can tell you my 2012 V6 will slowly loose engine temp when idling around 0*F ambient. Normally runs right at 191*F when fully warm, but Ive seen it as low as 170s after idling for a while on one really cold trip last year. Gotta figure even with a good T-stat, the fan is still turning and thats a lot of really cold air flowing over the block.

 

Down in Anchorage and it's been -10, I have the clutch accumulator delete and it sticks like it did without the delete so no help there. I would go with the cardboard or cover over the front to help retain heat generated and get the headbolt heater and a battery blanket.