Water Bypass Pipe No.1

What's oddly Ironic is that BMW M and S series motors have a coolant line like this and my 98M3 does have a tiny leak coming out of it randomly (127K). Slightly different design. Metal, however and not many issues for BMW owners. but mainly the gaskets go bad or the pipe rusts(not SS on most motors but they did upgrade to SS on some over the years). equally hard to replace if not harder because there is a massive rats nest of wiring, coolant, PCV and IAC lines under there.

 

The same part was on the 3RZ and it was metal. Here's a take-off for sale. Can't confirm right now but I think even the 22RE had the same or an almost identical part. They went to plastic for 3 years then back to metal. I think it's pretty obvious they had an "oh shit" moment.

 

Muahahah. Didnt even have to report him, guess the mods have taken note

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/banned-members-memorial-thread.115215/page-1829#post-22268705

 

I didn't report him. I'd admit it if I did. He must have bogged deep in another thread today. Funny shit.

 

Bravo mods!

 

DUDE! They're still selling the wrong fucking gasket for the 4cyl base model(I have a 07'). The smaller one like you pictured

I put in my VIN and everything, even rock auto shows it as fitting but it does not. Wasting my time and money

WRONG -> https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-intake-manifold-seal-222710d051

What is the correct PN?
I'm seeing
22271-0C020
and 22271-75070 as possibilities the 75070 when entered on this site/where I got my parts from, says it wont fit https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-gasket-2227175070 this dealership is pissing me off. they can't find me two others parts. the 3" vent hose that's a bitch to connect on back of the manifold and also the clamp to go with it. I drop mine and no idea where it went. probably inside a frame rail or something.

 

This is a review of the coolant pipe at the bottom of that eBay auction with a few tips:

Good product

Good product. Tough job though. Don't forget to connect the vacuum hose on the back of the intake manifold. It is a small hose with little to no play and is nearly impossible to connect after the manifold is bolted. And be careful not to drop the bolts in between the starter and transmission. You do not have to remove the fuel lines but it does make it way easier

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Just finished replacing the pipe on my 11. Was hoping they had switched to metal, but alas, still had the plastic one. Decided it was prudent to proactively replace it just in case. The stock plastic pipe was still in good condition, but the peace of mind is worth it.

 

My 08 2.7l with 225K miles recently started becoming low on coolant. After surfing around the forum here, I found a few threads on this and saw this pipe being a relatively common problem. Looked around the engine bay and found this... I obviously can't see the other side of the pipe but knowing how much coolant I am loosing I am guessing there's something broken on that end too. I am glad I caught this before it ran out and or overheated. I am going to try to make this post as detailed as I can as it was hard for me to find the information needed to do this job. I will be replacing the pipe and gasket tomorrow so stay tuned. This post will get updated with more pictures etc.


As you can see, 16268 and 16268G in the picture below is what needs to be replaced.


I just got this from my local Toyota dealer this morning! I included part numbers for anyone looking for them. I wanted to make sure I replaced this pipe with the stainless steel version and not the plastic version! Here are the most recent part numbers (part numbers often change with updates). My total was $54.92 + tax

Stainless steel water by-pass pipe part # 16268-75131
Metal gasket part # 16258-75021

I prefer to use OEM parts when I can but I would also like to add that Dorman makes a fix for this as well. Dorman # 626-554 which comes with a gasket and is listed on Rock Auto for $41.79. Here a link if you'd rather go that route https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9769344&jsn=255



After work I got the truck in the garage and got to work. I will say, this job isn't nearly as difficult as I expected and I am no professional mechanic. A few basic hand tools and some common sense and anyone can do this.

I drained my coolant first just because I wanted drain and refill it while I was at it. I don't think this is necessary but I'd recommend it as you'll be loosing coolant later anyway.

Second, I removed the air intake. I have a cold air intake so it was super simple with the only tool needed was a 10mm wrench.

Next I disconnected and removed the throttle body, use a 10mm socket and remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts that hold it on. I left the throttle body's hoses connected and just pushed it up out of the way.


Next step would be to remove the 5 bolts and 2 nuts that hold on the intake manifold. I used a 12mm socket with a few different extensions. I think I used nearly 2.5 feet worth of extensions to get to the 2 lower intake manifold bolts through the wheel well. I did not need to remove the wheel for this on my truck. Also remove the electrical connections on the manifold. Once the manifold is completely disconnected pull it away from the block.


Now you can finally see the pipe you're trying to replace.


Undo the 2 fuel line connectors and push the hoses up and out of the way. Now carefully remove the intake manifold from the engine compartment. its a tight fit and requires a little persuasion but it will squeeze out. Put the intake manifold in a clean safe place.


Hooray! The hard part is done. Now we can get to the stupid plastic pipe Toyota was generous enough to supply! Simply remove the 2 rubber hoses on the end of it, be careful as the small nipple could easily break off inside the hose. if it does like mine did, just screw in a dry wall screw and pull on the head of it. Pulls right out. anyway, remove the hoses, coolant will spill everywhere which I expected but wasn't prepared for (had to buy some kitty litter). Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding on the shitty plastic pipe. (all 12mm). Once removed, throw the pipe right in the trash where it belongs!
Clean everything the best you can, insert the gasket, and put the pipe on. replace the 2 nuts and the bolt. Tighten them down evenly so the gasket seats properly. Connect the 2 hoses as well.


This is where I have stopped for the night. Had to buy some shop towels, kitty litter, coolant, a funnel, and I decided while the intake manifold was off it was worth replacing the intake manifold gasket. $28 at the local auto parts store. I will finish the job in the morning. and update this post when its done. I hope someone finds this useful.

Got up this morning, and got to work on the truck. Went fairly smooth.


I cleaned the ports on the intake and a block, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the block where the gasket sits. I replaced the gasket on the intake manifold with a Fel-pro MS 96924.


Once that was done I put the intake back in its home, connected all the hoses and what not. Be careful getting the nuts and bolts back on. I dropped the nut closest to the firewall and had to take the manifold back off to find it. Also the hose that connects to the intake manifold closest to the firewall was a real pain in the ass to connect. be sure to connect all your hoses, gas lines, electrical connects, etc.

Tighten the 5 bolts and 2 nuts starting from the center and in a series of 3 to get them all evenly tight. Again, I used a whole shit load of extensions to reach the bottom 2 bolts through the wheel well.

Put your air intake back together and connect it back to the throttle body. Fill it up with coolant and fire up the truck. Be sure to check for leaks, and watch the coolant level for the next few days.

 

From one Massachusetts resident to another, thank you for the information and for making detailed postings of your installation.

Your posting is exactly why I want to be preemptive on this coolant pipe replacement on my 2006 and when the weather is warmer in the spring, get it replaced with the stainless steel version.

 

Ive got the truck in the garage now, I took my dads truck back to work. Ill be pulling it apart tonight. I will do my best to take pictures and such

 

I literally just felt around the back side of the motor to feel where hoses went and the small hose fitting going into the larger section busted off. Crazy. Luckily it happened at home.

 

Nick, thank you again for uploading all the installation pictures, your posting has given me confidence when I have to tackle this in the spring. I feel more people than you realize will be helped a lot from this posting and may save someone from a seized engine from losing all their coolant on a long trip.

P.S.- I got a chuckle with the Dunkin Donuts holiday "Wrappin" coffee cup.

 

Great work. Thanks for posting

 

@crashngiggles check this out.

 

Thanks nick, I will take a look to see if this is the culprit tomorrow.

 

Some are selling the 16268-75131 coolant pipe with thicker flange along with these bolts 90119-A0183 x2. I noticed that u apparently reused the old studs and nuts.Did u have any trouble getting it tight enough ?Which do u think would be best to use ? Thanks.

 

The flange is held on by nuts on 2 studs (see the them in the picture below) Id assume you'd need to remove those studs to then put bolts in? I don't know but that sounds like unnecessary work. The part number I posted is what I used and I did reuse the nuts with no issues at all.

 

This ad and some others, https://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2020-...7L-Genuine-Toyota/264558746184?epid=658573005 made it sound like this bolts were needed, but what u say makes sense.