9" and 9.5" 5125's for my First Gen?

I spent a ton of time researching back and forth and can't find a solid answer. I've seen 2nd gen guys run the 9.5" 5125's, but can't find much on first gens. I feel like everyone with first gens runs the 8" and 8.5" combo (we have unequal length shocks on each side).

Anyways I'm running a 3" lift and bought the 10" 5125's years back and unsurprisingly blew the seals on one from bottoming out. I didn't do the proper research and ran 2 10" 5125's.

From what I've read the 8" and 8.5" combo may not be long enough for my application.

Currently I'm trying to figure out if I can run these to replace my blown 10" 5125's:

33-230412 (9") Driver side

$110 Bilstein 33-230337 Monotube Shock Absorber, 46mm

33-230337 (9.5") Passenger side

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks!


Also, in case anyone cares it's a 96 with Wheeler's 5 pack, AAL, and 1" Toytech shackles, and I do have the extended brake line.

 

@SmogSUX

These are the part numbers for Bilstein 5100's meant for our truck -

Part #, Extended length, Collapsed length

F4-BE5-D559-TO 21.63 EXT 13.93 COL Driver side shock
F4-BE5-D560-TO 22.57 EXT 14.65 COL Passenger side shock

And

Part #, Extended length, Collapsed Length

$104 33-247724 Bilstein Qc55T 1" X 1" Male Coupling

33-247724 21.26 EXT 13.62 COL Driver side shock

$96 33-247717 Coupling, 3/4" (50)

33-247717 22.09 EXT 14.07 COL Passenger side shock

I'm not familiar with the flex that leaf pack provides, but it would behoove you to add some taller bump stops so you don't bottom out again.

 

So I'm trying to not go larger bump stops so that I can Tuck the tire properly which is why I'm going from 10" to 9" and 9.5"

 

Well, based on the dimensions without a shock relocation, you're pretty limited to the shock body size and the amount of useable travel you can get.

I mean I've seen 10" shocks used in a few builds, but they have extended bump stops to prevent from bottoming out.

The bump stops aren't completely solid in that they stop travel instantly; they allow for some give as they can compress slightly.

With that being said, why not just do a shock relocation?

 

I can't weld haha. Bolt in affair seems much easier and I don't wheel THAT hard.

 

Then you are limited to what actually fits your truck as is.

Btw, you can easily bottom out your suspension on a pothole. Don’t think just because you don’t “wheel too hard” you won’t bottom out your suspension.

You need to just figure out what size shocks will work for YOUR application.

Take all but 1 leaf out of your springs, and load up your truck until the truck is on the bumpstops, and measure the eye to eye shock length. Then jack up the frame until the wheels are off the ground and take another set of measurements.

Then look up the specs on shocks to see what will fit.

No welding required.