Dual Battery Setups! Let's see them! Multiple Batteries Thread!

Yea, I may have to pull the battery back out again and just connect it behind the aluminum mounting bracket. I just really didn't want to take it out again, it was a major pita the first time to get it exactly how I wanted it. The ground wire supplied is pretty short.

 

It can be a pain, but will make for a nicer install.
I was lucky and able to get my tray in pretty easy, and I was able to route the negative across the back of the firewall and it just managed to connect them. But misunderstood the image for the orientation of the positive. So the covers are on the wrong ends. Going to have to fix that. But after the xmas holidays and my 2k mile trip.

 

I got a aux tray off another TW member so I’m piecing the rest together. Let me know where you guys end up making the ground and any other tips. Post more pics too

 

I will post up some more pics on Friday once I have it completed. I am close but want to make sure I have it all set up properly first.

 

Setup complete. The OGE kit is really pretty simple and the Redarc DC2DC charger is doing its job.
Its a little dirty from my last road trip, but its good enough for some basic shots of the install.



Basic Explanation for choosing DC 2 DC vs. smart battery isolator: youtube.com/watch?v=ITamN84IiAo

Redarc Faults and codes video: youtube.com/watch?v=Ze4o5eJzmNI

Redarc Manual: https://www.redarc.com.au/Content/Images/uploaded/Manuals/BCDC Instruction Manual.pdf

I will be moving the connections from my sPod (currently connected to main battery) to the aux. I have not yet decided if I want to go through the hassle of moving the winch wiring to the aux battery, I currently have a solenoid and switch so there is no draw unless its on and the truck is running so I'm not too worried about any power draw.

 

Has anyone had any experience with the CTEK 140A Offroad?

I am running a IBS dual battery setup and i am having issues with charging both my 35pc1400 odyssey batteries. I understand that we have smart alternators in the 3rd gen trucks and AGM batteries need a 14.7 volt charge for optimal performance and reliability.

Judging from the info i could find on the 140A is that it will be the solution to my problems for charging the batteries properly and efficiently. The only issue i may have is finding a place to mount it all with my 2nd battery on the passengers side.

Has anyone seen or used this product before and can give me some firsthand knowledge about it?

Thanks

 

I have zero experience with it. It looks nice, but do you really need 140a?

 

The 2nd gen tow package trucks have a 130 amp alternator; I don't know about the 3rd gens. It's better to oversize than undersize.

 

Where do you have the solenoid for the winch wiring? I'm trying to decide where to mount my Blue Sea switch for my winch.

 

I cut a small piece of sheet metal and mounted it in the two bolt holes on the driver side. I ran the wiring along the side and up to the winch and then ran a switch into the cab.

I used the the

$105 WARN 62132 Power Interrupt Kit with Battery Lead, Hardware, Solenoid, Switch and Wiring

Warn 62132 Power Interrupt Kit. I also picked up a Liteway 5 pin rocker switch so I can switch it off and on from inside the cab. The one that came in the kit was a bit ugly. I have since changed out the primary battery cable to the solenoid with one the correct length that is sleeved and looks much cleaner.

Here is what it looked like underneath the sPod.


and the switch in the cab

 

I’m putting a DIY LiFePO4 aux battery behind the rear passenger seating of my 2012 DCLB. I already have a stereo amp back there with a beefy positive cable running from the starter battery. I plan to put a Renogy 20a DCDC charger back there and have an idea that might save me from having to run more cable from the engine compartment. The Renogy has a positive and negative input from the starter battery and a positive and negative to the aux battery. Is it OK to simply run the negative from the input side of the charger to the chassis ground I already have set up in the rear? I don’t understand if if it’s actually necessary to run a dedicated ground all the way back to the starter. Grounds are one of those 12V concepts I’ve never quite grasped. Thanks in advance.

I find it odd that some DCDC chargers I see have a single common ground and then a positive to the starter battery and a positive to the aux battery.

 

Yes, it's preferred to chassis ground as close as practical to any DC device. You definitely do not want to run a ground wire back up to the battery. This could actually cause problems.

Did you run a ground wire for the amp back to the battery? I suppose you can make a case where that might be necessary for a high current device such as an amp. Although it raises a concern to me. I'd suggest making absolutely certain that the ground cable is also chassis grounded on both ends and I'd also check it periodically to ensure connections on both ends are near zero impedance. Corrosion causing increasing impedance could cause a problem down the road.

 

That's a good spot for winch controls

 

Jesus! Did he really need 2 plumber's straps!?!? Seems like overkill.

 

Trying to figure out where to ground aux battery on a 3rd gen. Thinking of behind this clamp or where??

 

Go to the frame.

 

You run it back to the main battery which in turn is bonded to the chassis ground. A few pics of my setup. Its a little hard to see because I made some heavier cables to replace the facotry ones, but its the wire with the braided wire loom. In the wide angle shot you can both the pos and neg running back to the Aux battery.

 

Am I correct that the neg is going from the battery to the bussbar to the chassis? Those 2AWG or 4 AWG?

 

Yup. I wanted everything to look nice and clean so I made those 2 cables to fit . So I could tie the neg bussbar directly into that.

Edit: yes those are #4 AWG

 

Finally found the time to get my dual battery setup installed. I got the trays from Off-grid4x4 and picked up the REDARC on a business trip to Australia and then pieced the rest together off Amazon.

Thanks to all those here who helped answer my questions!

Here is the REDARC wired up and ready for the instal. As you can see I have a thing for expandable sleeving and split loom. I added an

$26 Anderson SB50 Connector Kit, 50 Amps, 36V Gray Housing, w/ 6 AWG, 6319 (Pair)

Anderson SB50 if I end up needing extra solar. I have two 50W panels going through a Victron MPPT that I now have wired to the aux. battery.


Took a section of copper pipe and pounded it flat and put in a couple rivnuts to make a less cluttered chassis ground for the REDARC ground and the solar ground.


Installed and very happy I was able to fit the group 27M in the auxiliary location.