Rustproof or not??

If you want something that washes off after rain use FF. If you want it to last a year or two use Amsoil MPHD or Corrsion X HD.. (Corrosion X HD collects all the dirt and grim in it though but it lasts and lasts even in wheel wells

 

i am attempting another FF treatment in the wheel wells as of yesterday to test out in the looming winter storm, first one of the season expected here on the MO river


the Corrosion X HD is on the list to try out

 

Sadly, I'll give that 20 miles on bad roads and you won't know it was ever there. (It does smell the best of the inhibitors I've used)

 

a guy from Chicago says this FF is going to stick so only time will tell

i only used 1/2 a rattle can on it! all 4 wells

 

That plastic wheel insert will never rust now...!! Way to go man.

 

If the ‘Chicago guy’ you’re talking about is me; I said FF sticks to the frame and undercarriage better than Krown, RustCheck or similar products and will still be there after the winter. It won’t last through a good power-washing and it won’t last long sprayed on your plastic wheel well liners either. Lol...

I realize you’re probably just doing a test on your wheel well, but IMO there are a few lines between products that ‘creep & stick’, products that just ‘stick’ and don’t creep, and products that ruin vehicles.

-Krown, RustCheck etc creep/lubricate really well but wash off fairly easily. $
-FluidFilm, Woolwax etc creep/lubricate well and don’t wash off under normal winter driving. $$
-Cosmoline, Rustilo etc don’t creep/lubricate much, but stick and remain way longer than FF. $$$$
-Ziebart, rocker guard, rubberized undercoating etc don’t creep/lubricate, stick extremely well but will destroy any steel they cover when eventual cracks allow moisture/salt past.

Again, just my opinion/experience.....

 

no it was not you!
experience is gold with these products, there are just SO MANY of them

the fender liner/arch molding bolts will, they are all new as of last spring, old ones got real crusty even trying hard to keep them clean over 2+ decades
i spent some good coin on 26 of them from Camelback
and the very top lip where they bolt into where its metal is a going concern until fixed

...

#hardcoretacolife

 

this might be the next to try on the list if the FF does not stick in heavy splashing, the CF 3000 had issues with heavy rain through my doors one day, but might not have been applied properly, still testing it on other areas

but W@W .... this is $118 USD a gallon!
https://www.corrosionx.com/collecti...rrosionx-extended-duty?variant=31205067948128

it has petroleum distillates whereas FF does not?




@vettehigh is this the stuff you are using in NY?

trying to protect my older than dirt tacoma!

 

Ive never seen extended duty. Is it much better than the regular corrosionX HD? I found the worst part of this product is that you get a coating of crap stuck to it, it lasts though even in the wheel wells

 

I use a wire brush and rattle can Rustoleum plus Rust Check ‘Inhibitor’ and Rust Check ‘Coat and Protect’ depending on the location. If you pull the small rubber plugs along the bottom of the rocker panels and spray something runny like the RC Inhibitor you will see it coming out the bottom. I’ve treated the inside of the doors, tailgate, hood, and body underside stampings as well as the frame, suspension, and driveshafts. There is no corrosion on this truck.

 

I’m just about to pick up my new truck where do you go to rustproof your truck here in Ottawa?
Tim

 

Hey Tim. I use Krown Rustproofing. They have quite a few locations all over Ottawa.

 

I may be in the minority here but in my opinion the best thing to use on these trucks is amsoil mphd (not a sponsor) or CRC marine. I believe these are cosmoline based? But I have tried FF, CRC Marine, MPHD and corrosionX hd and without a doubt the MPHD and CRC Marine is the best all around considering durability, cleanliness etc. If you don't care about cleanliness you can buy the corrosion x HD by the gallon and spray it yourself. I currently have 7 cans of MPHD under my truck that I sprayed the weekend after thanksgiving and as of last week it still looks exactly the same as the day after I sprayed it. No dirt sticking to it and still a waxy covering everywhere

 

Disclaimed: new guy here

When I worked as a boat mechanic in high school, we would always spray down metal components in Yamashield.

$16 Yamaha Yamalube Yamashield Moisture-Displacing Lubricant Spray ACC-YAMSH-LD-00

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008KYTZQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XE6hEbYT05DHB

We were a Yamaha dealer in NJ, so it was recommended by Yamaha for saltwater corrosion prevention, but the stuff worked great for other things too.

I remember specifically for Jetskis there's a metal sleeve surrounding the impeller pump that sits in salt water, and if we wouldn't spray it down with the protectent salt and rust would get behind the sleeve and slowly bind the impeller until eventually the housing would need to be replaced.

I read through most of this thread and saw fluid film and a bunch of other products recommended, but none of them seemed to be just simple silicone spray. It seems like fluid film is application specific so I'd assume it's the right product for the job, but I was wondering if anyone else has tried silicone spray or something else (like the Yamashield I mentioned) with any success?

 

Purchased my 19 TRD Sport brand new after researching a ton and skimming through here at Tacoma world.

I really enjoy the fresh black underbody and Toyota's rainbow of paint markers from QC. My goal is to keep it looking brand new as long as possible. But I live in Michigan and it seems like CRC, FF, Rubberized this or rust that but no product is just right.

I bought 12 cans of matte finish acrylic clear coat (all they had) and sprayed the entire underbelly suspension, frame, axles, fuel lines, etc. Everything has 3-4 coats of clear over the stock Toyota stuff. It looks brand new still and the salt grime rinses off just as easy as it does the hood. Time will tell but salt on roads since november here and I'm happy so far. If I want I can always Fluid Film over my clear. Good luck and I'll keep ya posted.

 

You might want to try CRC Marine, The motor oil surprised me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lyWHF4NoNVk

 

just found out the FF i was using to protect a naked section of frame that i need to wait for better than freezing temps to finish cleaning and primer
it just failed! a huge amount of flash rust (maybe a foot long) just popped up underneath where i had FF drizzled on and must've washed right off when i was hosing down the wheel wells this past week.

the temps are in the single digits here for the next few days and I cannot get a few hours space at the DIY heated garage to clean the flash rust off and put some temporary primer coating on until spring/summer and then finish the rest of it properly.

i don't have a good pic of it because the sun was going down before i could get back to get my camera. will post one up when i get it

i am so bummed!

 

just watched that tonight. I love project farm.. Fluid Film won in my book..

 

yes, until FF hit the pressure washer! about 12 minutes or so in
which is exactly what i was using to clean slop off of my frame back there by the rear wheels so i that i limit the tracking into my garage where it just softens and plops on the floor, eventually evaporating and drying into a white salty haze!

do you think i was using some bunk FF rattle cans that did not stick properly?


somebody told me to just gently rinse with a garden hose and should be no issue
where the heck do you think you can use an outside garden hose when its 10-20F out? sometimes colder like tonight is!

i am not sure yet, have not tried it out.
the video a few posts back does show a film of dirt sticks easy but is rinsed off ok, just not real sure it holds up well to the power wand washing

 

I've heard that using used oil is bad for the rubber and makes it swell.