Bad needle bearing

Someone makes a diff drop kit. Of course, that lowers the diff closer to the ground and may not work with some aftermarket skid plate options.

Just spend the $40 and an afternoon and do it right. depending on your area, you might even be able to borrow the removal tool or purchase one second hand from a member who has already done the swap.

 

I did a cheated LRT 3" spacer leveling lift. The kit came with the diff drop kit but it didn't help with the vibs. ECGS bushing is where it is.

 

The tsb fix will be very temporary because the dealership will just replace the needle bearing with another needle bearing. Trust me, trust us all when we say the ecgs bushing will fix it and, according to ecgs, it's a permanent fix.

 

I drive a 2017 TRD Sport with 102k on the odometer. Last month installed Bilstein 6112 up front with 1.5” lift. 5100’s back. Noticed that vibration from 50-60km/h. Vibration went away when 4H engaged. Did the research and ordered the bushing from East Coast Gear Supply and watched some YouTube vids on doing the bushing install. Last Saturday I got to it and it took me 4 hours by myself, I wasn’t in a rush. The whole job was completely new to me.
The whole re and re went very well with no problems. I’m happy to report vibration is gone and the ride is smooth.
Has anyone ever had to do the passenger side as well? Why is the driver side the issue and most focused on and not the passenger side?

This is an excellent YouTube to watch to do the job yourself.
https://youtu.be/sXIfHArtvF8

 

It's not an issue on the passenger side. It has a different configuration in the way it is made

 

Passenger side has a nice and tight wheel bearing instead of a crappy needle bearing that is floppy as hell and to make things worse the spider gears don't have anything to keep them centered so then they flop around some more. This isn't an issue with a stock height truck where the CV axle is nice, flat, and without any side load. Once any lift is applied it can cause side load to increase which will happily take those sloppy tolerances and wreak havoc.

 

Oh... one more thing I did after noticing the vibration, I installed the drop kit on the diff. It softened the noise and vibration by half and the bushing took the fix the rest of the way.

 

I picked up a 2008 4wd Tacoma with the wonderful rumbling/vibration in the floor board. This truck is a one owner completely stock. First thing I did was replace both wheel bearings on the front. No change in the noise. I tried to test with the recommendation of engaging 4wd. I am not noticing any difference in the sound, but it was very difficult to tell since I was in a bumpy dirt road. The noise is the loudest at 45-55mph. It is still there, but almost gone at 65-70mph. I am hoping it is the needle bearing. Since the cv axles have a couple cracks/wholes in the boots, I will probably just replace the axles since I will be pulling it out anyway. Does anyone have the puller tool as a loaner in Waco TX area? I would really appreciate it or any suggestions. Thanks again!

 

Hit up the current DFW BS thread. Someone in there should have the tool that they can loan. As long as you don't mind the drive to DFW. Or maybe also post in the TX BS thread. Might find someone closer, but the group in DFW is pretty big, so you'll cast a wide net.

In fact, I'll tag @Bigdaddy4760 as he seems to have a pretty good pulse on the area and a genuine interest in helping other enthusiasts.

 

Thank you! I will look up the DFW BS thread.

 

I gots the classic needle bearing vibration which goes away with 4WH engaged. I have an extended travel kit and plan on getting a front locker at some point.

I was told that installing an ARB front locker will replace the OEM needle bearing? Or do I need to buy the ECGS bearing and install it when the locker is installed? Thanks for clarification and appreciate any information/experience regarding this since I need to address the vibration soon as it is getting louder.

 

What did they charge you for labor?

 

I think the ARB air locker negates the need for the bushing. Since they sell both, you could call ECGS and confirm before placing an order.

 

2 hours at $60 an hour.

 

Man that’s a lot better than the 250
I was quoted

 

I did mine on my 17. It's a straight forward repair.
The bushing is not that much, it's the tool that is expensive.

 

$60 is the going rate for the bushing? Anyone have a secret shopping place that’s cheaper?

 

Their prices may have gone up.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/ecgs-promo-code.592755/

 

free ground shipping from the above link