Serpentine belt replacement. 2011 V-6

I’m hardly the auto mechanic and was able to do it in 30 min. You just finagle the belt around the fan and route as per the diagrams online. I think it’s a 14mm socket. I could never find the hole for a pin to keep the tensioner collapsed but it can be done with the right length socket wrench

Also inspect all pullies once the belt is off. They should spin freely. If any of the bearings are rough then they need replacing pronto.

I also went with a continental belt. People swear up and down that OEM is the only way to go, but I think that’s based on us getting well over 100k from that belt on a new motor with new idle pullies, new fan, compressor motors etc that induce less stress on the belt. They then put a new belt on an old motor and wonder why it doesn’t last as long.

 

Helps to have a second set of hands to put the belt on by them holding the belt on the PS pulley (from above so they do not get dirty) as you align the belt grooves on the grooved pulleys from underneath. Will save a few choice words and time as the new belt is stiff.

 

Second set of hands get in the way . Then you need to worry about his fingers.

 

I would love it if I had an extra set for f hands but the only person I have to help me of my wife and I REALLLLY don’t want to hear OH GOSH I CHIPPED A NAIL!! I think I’ll just put up with the extra aggravation and attempt it alone to save the drama. Lol

 

I went with a OEM belt, purchased from a Toyota dealer on Amazon (free shipping).

Recommend taking a picture with your cell phone, so you can refer back to see how the belt is routed. Feel free to take time to study the belt routing before you start. You can also find a copy of the belt routing online.

The whole procedure, from lifting until shutting the hood, should take less than 5 minutes. (Not including the time you take to study the routing of the belt.)

I was disappointed there wasn't a belt routing sticker under the hood. Would buy one if anyone ever decided to print them.

 

Well, you have to remove the bash plate too.

For me, wrapping it around CS wheel with my left hand while wrenching the tensioner with my right was the easiest.

 

Wife helped me but yes she did get a little cut holding it on the PS pulley no idea how ha ha so had to wait while she got a band aide!
If you all get confused or disorientated when doing the belt just remember groove side onto grooved pulleys and smooth side onto the smooth/flat idlers and tensioner.
If still confused have another beer and look at the diagram again.

 

Replaced two upper idler pulleys, one lower idler pulley, belt tensioner bearing, and serpentine belt. Easier than I thought. Part numbers listed for reference incase anyone asks. The Gates pulleys were from Amazon, Nachi bearing from ebay, and belt from Toyota.
(2)

$36 Gates 36173 DriveAlign Belt Drive Idler/Tensioner Pulley

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FKEMGM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(1)

$45 Gates 36174 Idler Pulley

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001FHQZDI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(1) https://www.ebay.com/itm/5203-2NSL-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649


Pro tips:
-Approach this task from the bottom, once the skid plate is removed, you'll have all the room you need.
-The belt tensioner pulley is reverse threaded. The bearing is very easy to press out/in.
-Route the belt around the fan, its very easy.
-Top two idler pulleys 29ft/tq, bottom pulley 40ft/tq, belt tensioner 27 ft/tq

I was long overdue for this maintenance. This immediately solved my cold start squeaks and a loose knocking sound. Turns out the tensioner pulley bearing and lower idler pulley were shot and loose.

 

This is an easy maintenance job for those that are mechanically inclined. If you are not and have never done this, you are better off taking the car to a mechanic.

A red flag here is when you said, "... there’s ABSALUTLEY no room to move around in there." [sic]

This tells me you have no business trying to do this job on your own. Get a buddy that has done this before to help you, or take the car to a mechanic.

If you want to continue, this video is probably the most helpful. He also replaced the idler and tensioner pulleys. What he doesn't elaborate much is that he bought an aftermarket tensioner and swapped out the tensioner pulleys. He also doesn't cover removing the engine guard and two brackets at the bottom to allow easier access.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DLnawMigjOI

 

Subd

 

Go in from the bottom and you can get it without removing a lot of stuff. One caution... be careful if you use a ratchet on the tensioner. If you aren't careful you can get it stuck in there with tension forcing the ratchet handle against the frame... then it is almost impossible to pull the damned socket off the hex head. I would have said impossible instead of almost impossible, because I did this and somehow eventually got it off. I wouldn't use a ratchet except there is little room to turn it and I had to use the ratchet to be able to release the tension to get the belt off.

 

If your pulleys are in good shape, you can replace just the bearings to save some $$ and generate less trash. I have a thread on this but the quick info is: get four 6302RMX bearings (for the idler pulleys; bearing size: 10X42X13), and one 5203-2NS (or -2NSL) bearing (tensioner pulley); bearing size: 17X40X17.5 .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...arings-in-the-idler-tensioner-pulleys.480961/

 

I found this video the most helpful:

https://youtu.be/V67u-wf6iY0

 

New bearings don't spin freely, the grease should prevent them from doing so. An additional thing to check for (beyond obvious roughness or play in the pulley) is whether they spin TOO freely. If they remind you of the sound of a 70s skateboard wheel when spun - spinning freely for a long time - the grease is gone or broken down, and the bearing should be replaced.

And don't forget to check the water pump, power steering pump, alternator, and A/C bearings while you're at it. It can be hard to tell on those; my alternator bearings seemed fine but it froze up HARD a couple of months after I did the pulley/tensioner/belt replacement.

 

anyone have trouble with the Bando belts? Reviews on Amazon indicate some break/shred? Or, should I get the Gates belt if I'm buying the Gates pulleys as mentioned earlier in this thread?

 

Just did the bando today. Ask me in a while lol.

 

Get the Gates, every Bando I've used started squeaking in less than a month

 

Cool, did you get the

$20 7PK2120 OEM Quality Serpentine Belt

7PK2120? How did the quality look? It fit well and works well so far on start up?

 

did you use the

$27 gates K070834 micro-v serpentine drive belt

gates K070834?

 

I can't remember the part number