AGM BATTERY CHARGING - ALTERNATOR VOLTAGE BOOSTER

He's raised his price lol. I got mine for $60 only a year ago! Now it's $70 without shipping. That being said read the description, it has a self reseting breaker built in set for 7.5 amps.
https://www.hkbelect.com/product/182-mk2-micro-blade-75a-electronic-fuse-version-2013/

 

Thanks!

 

I think the intention of these diodes is just to clamp transients in the harness. They are only shaped like MINI for convenience locating them within vehicle fuse panels without requiring too much customization. The 1A rating is the continuous current limit of the 1N400x or whatever junction is molded inside. They were never meant as over current protection.

ALT-S is AFAIK just a sense so shouldn't have much current at all. I would expect Toyota sizes fuses based on wire size, they used the lightest gauge wire for this circuit and thus the smallest standard fuse. I go back and forth with using the diode. Sometimes I convince myself it's OK only to start thinking about it and put the fuse back in.

 

Sweet Jesus.
I completely forgot about this thread, even posted in it back in July.
Spent $50 ordering that voltage booster from Australia last week.

 

I have looked at the pics of the Australian diode thing and I'm not convinced of the quality of the product. I have much more confidence in the diode supplied by GM and Ford and installed in millions of vehicles. I agree that in a perfect world, there should be a fuse in this circuit. In theory, the unprotected main battery cable that goes from the battery to the starter has a much higher risk of causing a fire.

I considered that it would be really cool if you could reconnect the terminals in an add a fuse so the 2 fuse locations were wired in series, and then have the diode in 1 and a fuse in the other. It doesn't look like this is easily done or even possible.

Another thought I had was to acquire another fuse box fuse terminal, use an unused fuse location for the diode and rewire the underside so the fuse and diode are wired in series. So far I have been unable to figure out the Toyota part number for a fuse pigtail.

Just 30 minutes ago, I had another brainstorm. Take 2 add a fuses and connect the wire from each of them together. Put 1 add a fuse in the alt-s position with the 7.5A fuse in it. Put the other add a fuse in an unused fuse slot that has 1 constant 12V terminal, and then put the diode in that add a fuse. The result would be a diode and fuse wired in series, for minimal cost, and the only effort being soldering 2 wires together.

 

Here’s a crude drawing of what I’m talking about. I decided to put the fuse in the previously unused fusebox slot because that’s where the voltage originates. If this is done this way, the lower slots in the add a fuses should be filled with epoxy or silicone sealer, since they’re not used.

Edit: I just noticed that there's a 10A fuse in the pic in post 21 above. That slot is unused on my '06. You could still use that slot and just put the 10A fuse in the lower add a fuse slot.

 

You guys made me panick and had to double check the diode.

 

This is eventually common for almost everything I post about. Keep in mind the prices listed are AUD and $70 AUD = ~$48 USD.

 

The MK3 version is a mini blade but fits in the micro blade slot, and it's twenty bucks cheaper. That's the one I got; it sticks out a little but does not interfere with the cover and is working perfectly for me. I have a 200 amp alternator (BnR ebay vendor) and a dual battery system; voltage output in warm weather used to get as low as 13.3 volts; now, it doesn't go below 13.8 and has hit 14.6 in cold weather. Glad I invested in this.
https://www.hkbelect.com/product/24...nic-fuse-version-micro-blade-compatible-2007/

 

So, is it recommended to try this if you have a standard battery but pull a camper often?

 

@Lycanistic I would go strictly by voltage output, which should ideally be 14 volts at idle +/- .3 . It's been pointed out how more important this range is for AGM batteries.

 

Just stick a wad of aluminum foil in there.

Epic thread

 

No. If you are running a standard (non-AGM) battery, leave it alone. This mod is for AGM batteries only, because they require a slightly higher charge voltage.

 

I had an Odyssey AGM battery, just replaced it with a SLA battery, it lasted 8.5 years! I did keep it on a Batteryminder AGM charger when not in use, never did or knew about this mod, but it makes sense.

 

+ 1 for the ford diode.

 

Has anyone in here had any issues with their diode? Mine worked good for a few weeks and then randomly one day it caused the battery light to come on. I took it out, reinstalled the 7.5A fuse, light went away, and i havent looked back. Curious if anyone else encountered this though

 

I’ve had the GM diode for awhile. What kind of diode were you using.

 

Is it normal for it to drop from 14.7 to 14.1 after driving 10+ miles?

 

@Muddinfun Have you plugged this in yet?

 

I'm curious also.