Alignment specs for 2” lift?

Yep running 4.5 * caster, drives like a dart.

 

They refuse to adjust caster saying it's impossible to get 3-4 degrees, are they BSing? They claim it'll throw camber off

 

you still have stock UCAs, correct? if so, they are right. get UCAs!

 

got it, I am about to buy JBAs... Or is the extra 250 worth it for SPCs?

 

i would because i like more caster. i believe the SPCs can you get a couple more degrees over the JBAs but don't know the exact details.

 

Just wanted to note one thing: Adding caster via the UCAs actually decreases clearance for tires. You want to get maximum caster from the LCAs to push the wheel forward and then can use the SPC UCAs to fix the camber. I can't find the thread that explained this well, but it's somewhere on TacomaWorld. The gist of it is adding caster with the UCA pulls the tire back and using the LCA pushes it forward.

 

Getting 4-5* caster with the JBAs is possible. They come with 2* built in so you can add that to the max adjustment #. Have mine be set at 4.5

 

I have read a lot of people having issues w firestone. I just ordered JBA high caster, hopefully they can do it. If not I will ask for a refund and take it to a local alignment shop.

So if I understand correctly adding these UCAs will move my tire back? I am trying to move it forward!

 

No. So imagine caster as vertical line thru the center of the tire. As the top of that line tilts back of center(positive) the bottom tilts forward of center. Thus the bottom back edge of the tire moves forward.

 

so if i want the top line back that is what the JBAs achieve? thanks!

 

You got it. The JBAs move the top back 2 degrees to start enabling you to get more caster.

 

awesome thanks!

 

Stock UCA's, 1.5" Suspension lift on the front.

Before #'s was just all the alignment points put back to the original spots after the new coilovers were installed.

 

don't know how you drive but those numbers are not as good as you may think... especially if you're on the highway at speed.

your toe should not be 0.0. toe in a bit, factory is 0.05 in. 0.0 will be floaty on road at speed, the steering wheel won't self-center so well, and emergency maneuvers will be compromised since your steering at highway speeds will be a bit slower to respond than a proper toe in. but that should be super easy with that alignment. just add a bit and good to go.

also your truck will drive much better if you get UCAs and increase your caster above 3deg.

 

Those were my "set to" points after the lift in the front.
Plan was to let the suspension settle and see how it drives and take it back in for an alignment tweak...

The suspension change probably contributed to the reduction in "floaty" at speeds,
but at 0 toe, it was not noticeable following traffic at 130kph/80mph today, and it was a near perfect feel.
So far drives great, so have not bothered going back to tweak it in...
When I do I'll ask to add a "little" bit more toe, target will probably be around .02, see how it drives from there.
Factory numbers made my truck a little too "twitchy" at speeds for my liking.
But then again the factory tolerances are very loose.

I posted my sheet for the benefit of a previous posted that had horrible caster #'s further up.
All they did was give a couple turns, on a tie rod end and gave him BS and sent him on his way.
No need for such poor numbers on stock control arms with a 2" lift.

The alignment people were right in that you can't get 3-4 deg on stock UCA's,
but they should have at least tried to crank his Caster a lot further up and still maintain specs for everything else.
He may not NEED UCA's and should try seeing what his stock setup can do.

So far, for my truck I have not found a need to go to 3+ degree of Caster. So it saved me some time and $.

 

Devil is in the readings. Alignment will pull to the side with LESS caster or more negative caster. You have less caster on the left hence you are pulling to the left. If they can get your cross caster (difference between left and right) within .5 degrees with preferably a side with a little more caster (not more than .5 degrees difference to the other side) on the driver's side (ex 2.5 driver's side- 2.2 passenger side) then you should be golden. Keep in mind that with the spacer you lose range of adjustability. And since caster and camber are BOTH adjusted at the same time you have to basically find the spot on each side which gets you the most caster with camber still in spec and both cross camber and cross caster within .5 of each other. This is the most maddening thing I saw while training techs is just because it's "in the green" doesn't make it good. If the spec is .5 to -.5 camber and one side is set to .5 and the other side is set to -.5 (both "green") then cross camber is out a whole degree and given all other angles are good that vehicle WILL pull to the side with .5 degrees of camber because camber pulls to the side with more positive camber.

 

damn this is so true. green does not mean good. i had a Toyota svc mgr argue that i wouldn't be able to feel that i had a bit of positive toe (0.06) on one front and negative on the other (-0.01). he insisted i wouldn't be able to feel that because it was in the green. lol!

i drove to that dealer because the front end was skipping over rough pavement, and also bumpsteering like crazy at low speed. monkeys like to just follow directions and not use their heads i guess.

 

Running JBAs and here are my specs

 

ya now go have some fun!

 

that is way way way way way too much caster, imo