1998 Tacoma 5.3L Vortec (LS) Engine Swap Thread

This build thread will cover how I swapped out a 1998 Tacoma 3.4L 5VZ-FE V6 and A340F automatic transmission for a Chevy 5.3L LM7 V8 Vortec truck engine and 4L60E automatic transmission. AKA an LS swap. My plans going in were to keep the project as simple as possible and this unfortunately meant getting rid of 4WD. I would like to add it back in the future. This is also a budget friendly build and I have kept meticulous track of costs. This was my first engine swap and I would like to share what I have learned to hopefully help the next guy out.

Back in April 2019, the 3.4L had 291,323 miles on it and had symptoms of a blown head gasket, perfect time for a swap.

A few pics of the stock starting point:




The tired 3.4L

 

Before pulling the 3.4L, I located a 5.3L engine from the local classified ads. It was pulled from a 2003 Silverado and included the entire wiring harness and most of the original components/accessories (intake, throttle body, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, coil packs & spark plugs, flywheel, oil pan, fuel rail). Try to get as much as you can from the donor truck as a lot of these things will nickel and dime you to death. The seller said it was running nicely when they pulled it. It had 101,000 miles on it and I picked it up for $900.

5.3L being unloaded


I used a timber tripod hoist that I already had. This was before I purchased an engine hoist.


I went with the 750 lb harbor freight engine stand and it supported the 5.3L just fine.

 

More deets please! Looking forward to Future posts.

Way cool!

 

Subd

 

Before I picked up the engine, I fabricated a set of engine stand legs made from 1.5" square tubes for the base and 1/4" plate for the interface to the engine mount threaded holes. The stand was useful for transport as well as moving the engine around the garage. Similar stands are commercially available.

 

More...need to see more

 

I found a 4L60E transmission on the local classifieds that had a bad pump and reverse basket, pulled from a 2000 Yukon 4x4. I picked it up for $50.



The transmission included the bell housing, old torque converter, neutral safety switch, and 4WD tail housing (would not be using). I decided to take on a full transmission re-build and add in a few upgrades while doing so.

 

So you're removing 4wd?

 

first post answers this lol

 

I used free Youtube videos by Transmission Bench that covers the complete disassembly and re-assembly of the 4L60E.

The disassembly starts with this video: https://youtu.be/SK84Qy_Vu_E

And the re-assembly starts with this video: https://youtu.be/YMy1aC0lHmw

The guy will put you to sleep but the information and tips he provides is awesome. I would not have taken on the transmission rebuild if not for those videos.

Here are some pictures of the disassembly:

Valve body gasket


Input shaft and drum after removing pump


Further in...



This is where the pump failed, those two broken tabs engage with the torque converter.


Broken pump rotor, seems to be a common failure point on the 4l60E:


I also found the reaction sun shell teeth stripped out (cause of no reverse). Everything else appeared to be OK so I proceeded to do a rebuild.

 

That's correct, but hopefully it will make a return someday. The 2WD route was the quickest and most cost effective option. It was also simpler and I wanted to avoid having a dead project sitting in my driveway.

 

What makes the 4x4 more difficult?

 

Just assuming mounts, front drive shaft fabrication as it probably would quite a bit as I bet its not a straight shot to the front axle from the transfer case.

But I hope whenever he does do the 4wd addition he keeps us posted on it also, as this whole thread had peaked my interest!

 

Here are a few points:

- Without a body lift, the front diff would have forced me to a custom oil pan and likely make the engine sit higher and further forward in the engine bay. Hood clearance with the intake and harmonic balancer pulley clearance to the radiator would likely be an issue.
- I would have to worry about fitting a Chevy transfer case and then having a 2nd custom drive shaft made to go to the front diff. I would also need to make sure there is driveshaft clearance to the oil pan. A custom transfer case shifter would likely need to be fabricated.
- I would need to have the Tacoma ADD system operate standalone (may not be a big deal) or convert to manual hubs

Maybe not more difficult, but just more time and money to keep the 4WD.

 

Here is a breakdown of what I purchased for the 4l60E rebuild and conversion to 2WD:

-Stock parts replacement-
Master re-build kit which included gaskets/seals, pistons, frictions, steels, band, and filter, Ebay, $204
AC delco shift solenoids, Ebay, $20
Complete bushing kit, Ebay, $26
Manifold pressure switch, Ebay, $32
2WD tail housing and vehicle speed sensor (VSS), Ebay, $54
2WD output shaft, Ebay, $25
Complete oil pump assembly, Ebay, $130
Reaction sun gear, Ebay, $13
Transmission oil dipstick and tube, Ebay, $30

-Upgraded parts-
Sonnax line pressure booster 4L60E-LB1, Ebay, $31
Corvette servo kit Transgo A74905BK, Ebay, $46
Heavy duty "The Monster" reaction sun shell, Ebay, $44
Valve body spacer plate Transgo 46-PLT-96, Ebay, $20
Transgo shift kit SK4l60E, Ebay, $30
Transgo 8686017 Piston, forward clutch accumulator, Amazon, $6
Transgo 4L652ACM piston, 1-2 accumulator, Amazon, $7

-Special tools and other-

$17 Lisle 44900 Lock Ring Plier

Lisle 44900 lock ring pliers, Amazon, $13
TP50 TORX PLUS socket, Amazon, $10
Blue assemblee goo, Amazon, $6
Valvoline max life ATF for coating friction plates during assembly, $7

Total cost for the re-built transmission (including $50 core) with a few upgrades and conversion to 2WD was about $850. I could likely sell the 4WD output shaft and tail housing for ~$50 to get some money back. A similar transmission built by a shop without a core to give would likely cost somewhere between $1500 to $2000.

I can add Ebay/Amazon links to all of the above if anyone is interested.

 

Transmission fully torn apart before start of re-build


Its kinda crazy, all the components that go into an automatic transmission


Before starting the re-build everything was cleaned using brake cleaner. It's important to keep everything as clean as possible.

The most difficult part of the disassembly and re-build was compressing a few spring assemblies to get a snap ring out and back in. It pays to have the right tool for this, the pliers linked in the above post worked well. I initially had the wrong pair and it was a royal pain to get out. I cobbled together a spring compressor but you can easily buy a spring compressor tool, I would highly recommend it.

This guy also has a good series of videos on the teardown and re-build of the 4l60E:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgRNkmbbYlU

 

New pump installed


Almost back together, about to install the pan


2WD tail housing installed, only the bell housing remains


Complete disassembly and re-build took a little more than a month.

I will be keeping the engine stock initially so this transmission is plenty good. Chevy often paired them together in their stock vehicles. For high horsepower applications, most guys go with the 4L80E but its bigger and costs more.

 

Down to the bitter end, I was making the 3.4L work

 

And then I started to pull it out, all in my driveway. Not enough room in my one car garage.

Fluids were first drained (engine oil, coolant, ATF)

Grille, front bumper, and head lights removed


Radiator and AC condenser pulled (AC refrigerant was removed by a local shop before swap start)


Then the hood, one man lift with a HF 2 ton engine hoist


Drill out the front clip spot welds with a spot weld bit (spot welds center punched shown here)


Drilled out, can you see the screw up on one?


Remove front clip T-brace/radiator support. This made taking the engines in and out easy.


Thanks for all the memories 5VZ-FE