TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You don’t think the stock radiator would work?

 

That's a great explanation! Thanks for clearing it up buddy

 

Then you want to focus on air movement. E-fan and a radiator upgrade is my prescription.

 

In cooler weather, perhaps. Summertime though... I dunno man... Especially not while running the AC.

 

My thought process was lower threshold and get fluid moving prior to 180. I don’t understand the additional wear on the radiator. I don’t mind upgrading it, but don’t really want to go electric fan option although that may be best.

 

Got a deal on this blower. Would it fit our tacos?

 

Looks like its for an FJ.

 

Out of curiosity, any chance the

$24 Stant-14127 OE Type Thermostat, Stainless Steel

Stant 14127 (170° thermo for Tundra 4.7l ) will fit the OEM water neck housing? Or do you have to run the Tundra water neck as well?

 

Yes.



Lol but seriously, I am planning on getting this thing retuned then getting the the P0135 code turned off (whatever the code was, I'm pretty sure that is it, but I can't remember at this very moment)

Oh and also, given that 160 is the temp it will open at there will be a rise of anywhere between 15-20 degrees. So at worst we would see temps of about 180ish which is a considerable amount cooler than 194* (normally where I would see my temps with the OE thermostat).

Sidenote: this truck pulls like a freight train on small highway inclines now and rarely goes into boost over the small highway inclines I always take it on.

 

ive got over a year and mines leak free.

 

what is the urd one @12TRDTacoma ? ive had no troubles.... but curious.

 

It is a Motorad thermostat I believe.

I don't know, based on the size of things over OE it just seems to be barely passing grade. We've installed them before on customer care, but I never had a very warm and giddy feeling about them going in on their cars.

 

Attributing this to the cam gears?

 

IS THAT A TOY? THINGS FAKE FOR SURE. TRD IS SUPPOSE TO BE RAISED LETTERS AND THE PULLEY ISNT HELD ON WITH A NUT

 

Starting the long process

 

To fit the OEM water neck, you have to modify it. Just like when using the URD adapter. To use no adapter, you have to heavily modify the OEM water neck. I have pictures in my build thread. Not worth it, since there are easier, less timely alternatives now. There weren't back then.

 

On the Spidertrax, doesn't that company offer upgraded bolts/hardware? I remember Colin saying something about upgrading the the stronger hardware, or along those lines. Was years ago though.

With that added component, and leverage, strong hardware is a must in my opinion. Grade 12.9 and/or higher with ARP studs.

Where was the failing point, if you remember? The hub to the spacer, or spacer to the wheel?

 

I would be curious to know as well. I’ve had a wheel that was hand tightened and mocked up come off because I never went back and torqued it. However, hub centric spacers like spider and bora rest all the weight on the hub and not the lugs. If you rip one off the hub then it would seem that enough force is exerted to also break the rim and even the axle tube prior.

 

definitely. larger rolling mass, all that leverage. not ideal.

IIRC it was wheel spacer to wheel. The spacers studs.

 

Gotcha. Can’t argue the leverage is not good. As much as I am removing and reinstalling wheels I started actually using a torque wrench as well to prevent stretching and wear on studs. I used to just grab the breaker bar and really lay on them.