"Official" Firestone RideRite + Lift Thread

do you have the whole kit or just bags? The lines are all push to connect, my experience was that you might need to remove them and re-cut the line a couple of times before you get them to seal up properly.

Other than that, they get ziptied to the frame so as not to get snagged.

I'm considering adding some Tees and a needle valve between the two bags to let air flow between the bags at a controllable flow rate. This would allow you to equalize the bags if/when you want and might help with up travel and articulation when offroad.

 

Whole kit. All the bolts and everything that comes with the kit. I’ll be re painting the brackets though as they looked like they had some surface rust on them. They may just be dirty. And I was going to do a t but I figured it’d be better to be independent for lean or would you still go with the T

 

If you do two tees connected with a needle valve you can open the valve to run them in series and close the valve to run them parallel (independent). If you use a needle valve you'll be able to control how fast air is allowed to travel between the bags. My idea (haven't thought a whole lot about this yet) is that it's kinda nice to fill just from one port (valve open would allow this) then close the valve for highway driving. Also with valve closed you can bleed the high side down to level. Then when offroading you might crack the needle/meter valve open to allow a controlled transfer from bag to bag to allow for more suspension articulation. You could get even fancier and have needle valves that free flow in one direction and restrict in the other and meter differently to each side (2 of these valves is actually cheaper than a bidirectional I think)

Questions I have with this idea are:

1. How much will air flow between bags with a wide open valve
   • need to calculate/estimate/assume force on the one bag and therefore internal air pressure (existing air pressure in bag plus compression pressure between frame and axle, length of tube between the bags to determine flow rate
2. How long would it then take for one bag to deflate and bottom out and could this damage anything (guessing yes, but probably depends on speed)
3. Will the adjustability of the metering valve actually provide useful adjustment resolution

I think it's worth doing the tee and the valve for the convenience and versatility. Not sure if the metering valve as opposed to a ball valve really matters but hey might as well go for the one that gives you the option. I think the parts are pretty cheap too.

I say go for it!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rite-lift-thread.279865/page-30#post-20812219

I have mine routed from the two schrader valves, into a pair of T’s, then off to the bags. Between the leg of the T’a is a ball valve bridging.

I open the valve, fill both on flat land, close the valve and I have exact pressure bilaterally, and no cross flow.

When I hit the trail, I open the valve to encourage cross flow between the bags for better articulation.

Works like a champ.

 

Have you tried it with ball valve open and closed and noticed significant difference? Ever try just cracking the valve slightly open to see how that works?

 

Have you considered piecing a few of these together for some of us to buy?

 

Did you have a local shop make those or did you make them yourself? If you made them, would you be willing to make a second set? If not, mind if I or anyone else used the drawings to have a set made?

 

One caveat, I have a habitat and run with weeks worth the gear for two adults and two kids. I’m heavy on the trail.

The amount of sway and upstroke is very noticeable with the valve open. Freeway with cross wind I can clearly tell when running loaded. It gets spooky on off camber trails, but for those I can always inflate the low side to “push” the truck away from the flop. Haven’t needed that yet, and we did Imogene, mineral creek, and a few others in the San Juan’s this year.

Closed is like I have proper springs for the load. Minimal sway around curves or rocking in crosswinds.

Oh, and I can use my little pump to fine tune the truck for level when the tent is deployed.

I could be persuaded... Is there interest?

 

Skierd - I used an All-Pro flip kit for the base, then had the round Daystar seats cut by the water jet guys at the shop where I work. Use the drawing as you please - I don't have any plans to make more of them. When the two plates are stacked and welded together, the base is plenty strong for the purpose so don't worry over that.

Between the springs in my truck being flattened a bit and the combined thickness of the bracket and Daystar cup - a lot of travel space gets used up. To avoid bottoming the bags you will have to run about 10-15 psi in them with this arrangement.

 

Nice! I put an 8' Four Wheel Camper in the back of my truck so I'm pretty heavy too. Thinking the needle valve might be a nice adjustment capability in this case: https://www.amazon.com/GooTon-Contr...nect+flow+control+valve&qid=1578501479&sr=8-7

Not to burst the entrepreneurial bubble, but if you're planning to install the bags yourself, you can definitely whip up this setup yourself for pretty cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Pneumat...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

two tees and one valve then cut tubes and splice it in...done!

 

Yep, and not dampening. I just have surplus parts from my project!

 

How about making a bridge line between the two bags, but install a pneumatic switch like one of

TAILONZ PNEUMATIC 1/4" NPT 12V/24V/110V/220V 2 Way Normally Closed Electric Solenoid Air Valve 2v025-08

these that could be switched from inside the cab? On demand articulation when you need it... Although, I see there is a direction of airflow. Will it not let air flow from side to side?

 

That was my original plan, but my trip was coming soon.

 

That one looks like gas can only flow one way. You might try this one...say it's 2-way:

$10 Plum Garden 1/4" DC 12V 2 Way Normally Closed Electric Solenoid Air Valve, Stainless Steel

https://www.amazon.com/4inch-Normal...P6VHBMQC2TX&psc=1&refRID=7AM43NF36P6VHBMQC2TX

Also, just heard of a good idea for monitoring pressure in the bags:

https://www.amazon.com/Onewell-Moni...argid=aud-801738734305:pla-473822909467&psc=1

 

So I know some of you have a tablet in your truck for ham radio. My question is does anyone use a windows tablet ? Say a surface or surface pro? I’d like it for programming on the fly and for using some of the more popular windows ham apps.

 

We run an early iPad for navigation, dual band HAM for coms.

Never connected the two. Been thinking of trying to figure that out to utilize the APRS feature in my Yaesu. Better than running on the 5w Beaufeng and an old no-service android phone.

 

Ha ha ha I just realized I posted this in the wrong sub forum

 

I do. Surface pro. I also run blustacks android emulator for Navigation https://www.bluestacks.com/

 

I put this in today to air up and down my bags. It works great so far but think I made a mistake because I want to be able to air up a tire if I need to.
I assumed it would but the web site says.
Will WirelessAIR work with an air tank?
Answer
No.

by the way my bags are ride rite

 

Just found this on etrailer


I am looking to run the same setup i had on my previous truck wireless air 72000 and load lifter ultimate 88200 but i want the auxillary air chuck ability something like the quik shot provides. Is there a way to add this to the wireless one or do a different set up? It needs to have dual leveling, wireless control. Or do i need to plan to run a completely separate system for the auxillary air? I will need to fill flat tires, trailer tires, etc. nothing like full off-road Jeep tires. Thank you

asked by: Trevor

Expert Reply:

I do have a solution for you but I spoke with my contact at Air Lift and he said that a system like the One Shot cannot be added to the wireless air compressor system # AL72000. There is no way to regulate the air pressure in the tank with the wireless set up and the compressor is not rated high enough to air up tires.

What you can do is like you said you could mount a whole separate system just for filling tires and other things and not integrate it into your existing wireless system.