Replacing injectors, what else while I’m there?

CBI was the only one i could find that offered a DIY kit. it was $424 for the bumper and an extra 30 for the stinger. It was a super nice kit and everything fit really well together.

 

Can you post more pictures buddy? how thick is the metal?

 

http://www.cbioffroadfab.com/produc...oma-products/diy-1st-gen-tacoma-front-bumper/

^Here's the link to the kit i ordered. The mounting plates that bolt to the frame are 1/4" steel and the rest is made from 3/16" steel and has two 3/4" steel D-Ring tabs.

http://www.cbioffroadfab.com/produc...coma-front-bumper-moab-1-0-with-center-grill/

^That's the link to the assembled bumper and you can find the specs on it there.

***These are pics sent to me from CBI as reference for assembling the DIY kit.

This is the bottom of the winch plate/frame mount. Passenger side is at the top of the pic.



Bottom view... Passenger side is on the right side of the pic



Holes on the left bolt to the frame, holes on right side are mounting holes for the rest of the bumper.



Top view of winch plate/ frame mount. Passenger is on right side of pic.



Back side of driver side. That hole in the corner is for a 2" signal marker, i found them at O'Reilly's for around 6 bucks.



Back side of the center of the bumper. The holes you see are for mounting to the winch plate.


Back side of passenger side


Back side of the whole bumper


Center front, winch access points


Passenger side front


Super beefy D-Ring mounts.

 

And of course some in progress shots. BTW... Nate, the guy doing the welding, has a 6.0 swapped jeep on 40's. Linked front and rear and just recently threw in an Atlas T-case. Nbd.

 

I appreciate all the info man! Ill be ordering this kit soon

 

No problem man, you definitely wont be disappointed with the kit!

 

I've removed and replaced passenger injectors without touching manifold. Just moved fuel rail out the way.

 

These are OEM DESNO WITH DATE STAMP when they were made
Working perfectly for me

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-OEM-NEW-89615-12040-SET-OF-2-DENSO-TOYOTA-LEXUS-KNOCK-SENSOR-/182069052653?hash=item2a642944ed&rmvSB=true&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-53200-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D4%26pub%3D5574640951%26campid%3D5335841727%26customid%3Dtwo2391700%26mpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fitm%252FGENUINE-OEM-NEW-89615-12040-SET-OF-2-DENSO-TOYOTA-LEXUS-KNOCK-SENSOR-%252F182069052653%253Fhash%253Ditem2a642944ed%26srcrot%3D711-53200-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D1380413331402&ul_noapp=true

 

Well there is a third piece yah gotta remove for the knock sensors but you'll see. And thanks on the turbo
here's the three pieces
lower

middle

upper
sorry for the low res pics, but I don't currently have mine disassembled lol. You have to separate the upper from the middle manifold so you can access the bolts for the lower manifold.

EDIT: The upper portion is a plenum with runners, the middle section is just runners and the lowest portion is technically the manifold. Despite that most repair manuals I have seen refer to the 5VZ-FE "Intake" as a three piece manifold design. But regardless of how it is worded its a 3 piece unit.

 

Bringing up an old thread here. I've been searching these forums and the net and can't find anything decent on changing fuel injectors for 1st gen. 3.4L V6. I have found some very comical videos with some guys working on 4Runners with the same engine. But after watching one guy working in the dark and ending up with extra parts and another guy tasting anit-freeze because he wanted to figure out why green fluid was running through his throttle body hoses, there really isn't much out there on this particular engine showing the process of changing the fuel injectors, which is surprising to me. If there is please share it.

I have been coming up with P0306 codes on my tacoma for the last month now. I've changed the cables, tested the coils, replaced plugs, checked all sensors and compression. I have ruled everything else out over the course of the last month. The misfiring is intermittent and runs very sluggish when it does occur. I'm 95% certain I have a bad fuel injector so I'll be taking apart the upper plenums sometime this week when parts arrive. I've decided that I may as well replace all 6 injectors (245K+ miles) so I hopefully won't have to do this again. I'll be replacing the gaskets (lower and upper) and it's recommended to change the fuel filter as well when changing the injectors to prevent pre-mature corrosion to the injectors, so I'll be doing that. 6 new injectors is way more than I can afford. If I had that kind of money, I'd just hire a mechanic to do the rest I suppose. Instead I'll be using remanufactured injectors that come with new caps, seals, rings and filter. I've haven't seen any horror stories about using remanufactured ones, they've all been positive, so finger's crossed.

I've been debating whether or not to set up a camera and make something somewhat useful to put out there for people, but if there is something else out there already I'd appreciate a link to it.

If all I hear are crickets on this, then maybe I'll give it the old college try with the camera.

 

Looks like I found some pretty good info. I'll be combining the following video with the following repair manual. Seems like enough to get the job done. I'll be replacing the throttle body gasket as well.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-lhZIWOkyU

Free Manual Download: http://web.archive.org/web/20080731033603/http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/

 

I make it a practice to replace the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) when replacing injectors on an old (18yo +) engine. I had to replace the injector plug sockets because a few of them crumbled from age. I bought replacement pigtails from O'Reilly. I only needed to replace the sockets. I also replaced the injector rail crush washers.

 

Thanks for input. If the FPR isn't too expensive I'll throw one in. I'll also be getting the crush washers which I forgot to order.

That's an excellent looking manifold you have there btw! I have extra dremel brushes ready for mine.

 

Thank you. The going price for a new OEM regulator is $78.35 + shipping.

 

I did this job about a week ago and used these injectors from Motor West. I'm a very satisfied customer.

 

Have you had the FPR go bad on your older vehicles? How common is it? I just couldn't justify 80 bucks for a part that seems to be working perfectly.

 

I agree. Maybe new O-ring instead?

 

Yes. I see them start to fail after 20 years. @xtremewlr recently had a failure on his 1st gen. Its just another rubber component like hoses and belts. They don't last forever. If you can replace one in 15 minutes, then why bother replacing it? To me its about time and the likely hood of reworking a job later to replace an old component.

 

A rubber component internally? or the o-ring?

 

They contain a vacuum operated diaphragm that will leak as they get old. Stumbling is the symptom.

Just search on FPR and count the number of hits. Here's another replacement post below.

Preventative maintenance depends on how long you're planning to keep the truck.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...st-gen-edition.138573/page-9423#post-21979784