Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Driveway Erosion Control, ETC.

John Deere 1830 with loader. Used for everyuthing: bushog, snow blower, gravel moving, log skidding, grandson entertaining.

 

The latest project, 1975 IH Cub.

 

While the hood is off.......

For the record, I bleed green. I used to dislike IH, I grew up on a JD 1020 dad bought new in 1970 (still has it and uses it) and he had a worn out IH 140 and I couldn’t stand it. Nothing like the sound of a JD two cylinder though.

 

My dad on his near new 1020 row crop circa 1970 and when he still had hair, lol. That’s a semi mount JD 101 corn picker he picked a million acres with over the years one row at a time.

 

Here’s the LA, bought it and all the equipment in 1972.

 

The touch control was leaking on this Cub. I cut a new oring groove beside the old one because the original is special and I can't see paying $7+ for an oring. Also replaced the rubber boot that was missing.

 

Think I found the best place to start figuring out why this Cub isn’t charging.

 

Mind sharing the fix up with us? Any idea what year it is? It looks like a later model, ours are a 1970 & a 1972.

 

Serial number have "JKK" on the end of the number? Both of ours do, one of the K's is a Rockford clutch and the other K means it has a faster 4th gear than one without the K.

 

Where was it leaking fluid from? I have a TC18 that has a couple of drips/drops here and there, but nothing major. Just small sections of rubber return line that need to be replaced when the weather gets warmer.

 

Aha...
Bad valve, or had it gotten some trash stuck in it?

 

Transplanted another regulator I had in. It looks new on the inside.

 

I put a new wiring harness on one of our 140’s. Got it from The Brillman company. It was top notch.

 

Here’s what all came with it.

 

According to the serial number you posted it’s a 1969.

 

If you go to the bottom the serial numbers are on the left.

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/004/6/5/4657-farmall-140.html

 

I never knew they made those for 21 years.

 

What are yall doing for rear weight? Im debating on cutting my wheel weights to fit on the wheels, or turning the frame for the rear blade into a weight box and mounting the wheel weights to it.
My wheel weights need a 45 cut on the inside edge 3/4" deep.

 

Right, because International took over from Farmall in the mid 60's, I think.

 

If you can modify your weights to fit in your wheels that would be great, that way you can hook another implement and still have the use of the weights.

On the Ford 4630 I have the rear tires loaded with 100 gallons of fluid each and also have 2 sets of rear weights on each wheel.