Tires too heavy?

Funny, I'd never go without. I hate to get flats.

 

How’s the road noise on those X-ATs? I really like them but read a review saying they were louder than the Ridge Grapplers.

 

They do make a little noise. Don’t mind it at all though. Never heard the ridge grapplers. Those are sick tires as well

 

Biggest objectively bullshit post I have read in a long time and this person knows functionally NOTHING about Unsprung mass and rotating weight and the enormous effect it has on vehicles. Mindblowing how "wrong" this is on every concievable level.

gross increases in unsprung weight directly inhibit the drive-trains ability to convert the available power to wheel-HP hitting the ground.
-The motor must work 3x harder to move each UNSPRUNG LB compared to a sprung LB.
-Exclusively increasing unsprung weight by ~50% per wheel, per corner, "in layman's terms" reduces the motors wheel/HP output (via drivetrain effeciency conversion-loss not mechanical)to a proportion where power-conversion loss is mathematically similar to a reduction in mechanical HP anwhere from 1/2lb-1lb per unsprung 1lb.

Thus going from an OEM setup:
-265/70/16 Goodyear Kevlar @42lbs
-on TRD-OR wheel @25lbs
Would =~67lbs of unsprung weight per corner
-Toyota Factory rated this set-up at:278hp 265tq
to*hypothetical EXAMPLE*
-285/75/16 BFko2 E-rated @59lbs
-Method 16x8s @ ~25lbs
-would = 84lbs of unsprung rotating weight per corner
-DELTA (change) value= 17lbs+ increase over OEM per wheel, per corner
The equivalent drive-train loss in efficient conversion of available engine-power to wheel-HP would mathematically reflect the output of a 244HP motor
Therefore simply switching from OEM tires, to E-rated 285 Ko2's would perform as if the truck LOST ~34HP

HOW?WHY?Where did you get those numbers?SHOW YOUR WORK:
Lets say you went conservative with the measure and said each unsprung pound. increased resulted in a drivetrain loss of efficiency= to 1/2hp per unsprung pound gained
-"Delta" = 17lbs of unsprung weight gained.
-84lbs(new)-67lbs(oem)= 17 (unsprung lb. increase)
-17(unsprung weight increase)x.5(the LOSS of hp due to increse in-efficiency)@(1/2hp loss per lb.+)= 8.5
-8.5(the equivalent HP loss from drivetrain ineffiency)x4 (the number of wheels)= 34

so increasing to 285/75/16 E-Rated K02's will have a drive-line power-conversion detriment as if ~34 HP was taken off the truck. Thats being conservative.
NEW HP of ~244hp useable, convertable power after loss.

I hope the numbers and facts begin to sink in

 

E-rated tires are virtually negative in every single aspect other than puncture resistance. The E-load rated tire's ideal application is Full-Size F250/Duramax diesel tier trucks.

It is improperly used by Tacomaworld™ users who MUST have Bfg Ko2's whatever is the quickest most straightforward way to get them, which is 16" and the only load rating those are offered in by BF-G for 16" wheels is E-rating.

There is no other reason (save excessive puncture prone driving conditions that are outside of the norm for 90% of owners)to even think of E-rated tires on a mid-size truck.

 

SL rated wildpeaks. Offroading and no flats yet.

 

Preach!

 

Finally upgraded to some ray 10s. They look sick.

 

I'm gonna add some fuel to this fire

E rated tires are fine if you tow often or offroad enough to warrant it, or in terrain that requires it.

This is a want vs need arguement. I want 2.5 resi with clickers. I sure as hell don't need it. I've done fine with SL and would love to swap out tires eventually but have yet to find anything that it can't handle.

Maybe hit a tire shop and get the replacement warranty like discount tire provides. If you shred a tire or tires enough to use the warranty cool you got it and then you hit the need part of the conversation.

 

I bought the replacemt coverage at discount, still haven't got to use it yet. My wildpeaks have done great.

 

Still envious of those Ray's. Look amazing on the red with wildpeaks

 

Increasing unsprung rotating weight has a MASSIVE impact on wheel-bearing, hub, CV and drive-train performance and life.
-going from OEM to E-rated 285's on 16x8" wheels is a 25% increase in mass per wheel. (67lbs>84lbs=delta 17lbs)
-additionally going from an OEM offset of +25mm (3rd gen TRD-OR) to an after-market offset of +0 is an outboard movment of 1inch of the wheel on each side
-a total gain of 2+ inches in track width, an an increase of scrub-radius to positive 20

This is where wheel weight will start to obliterate your mind. Because Offsett moving towards the negative from positive (with zero in-between) you are increasing the "leverage/fuclrum" point of the wheel acting on the hub/bearings/cv etc.. LOL that increase in weight in now a MULTIPLE of itself because you have moved the edge of the wheel outward.

LOL this is why all the carolina-squat bros with MASSIVE offset wheels, or Latino's spaced wheels or "stance" people rape their bearings/CV's/drivetrains in such quick and severe fashion. By changing the mass and geometry of their vehicle THAT much, they have set physics to war against them.

this is why Toyota and every other manufacturer let alone race-teams have enormous budgets and really smart people working for them. This kind of knowledge is undesirable as a customer/end-user to discover for your self the 'hard-way'.

**and before all the anecdotal: "well i know john doe who did this and 20 other people here do it and are "fine" or the mental-gymnastics team start their floor-routine, think of it like this:
-Yes, yes, I know we all know uncle Jeff who smoked 2 packs a day and lived to be 80, but you couldn't POSSIBLY recommend smoking as 'healthy' or 'good for you'.
-massive wheels and tires or excessive lifts are the proverbial "picking up a pack a day habit for life" for your truck. It may not be today, and it may not be tomorrow, but there WILL be consequences... and the odds of you being the exception rather than the "rule" couldn't possibly be worth the risk...right?

 

Not really sure where this came from because it was already covered earlier.

I said nothing about offset or jacking up a truck 3 inches and adding stupid amounts of offset or wheel spacers. Only a small group of people actually use the vehicle that would benefit from any of it that.

My statements had nothing to do with adding anything more than stockish size tires from the sr 245 to the or/pro 265. Skinnies ect. Anyone trying to get 285's and a -38 offset with a bunch of other CV stressors and messing with driveline geometry is gonna have to figure that shit out for themselves.

 

didnt mean to quote ya there lil' buddy. The little text box holds shit across multiple tabs. was supposed to be a 'stand-alone' statement for search/lurker/reader purposes.
these threads show up on google searches, and inevitably, having material that has value to read is worth completing the thought in each thread it begins.

 

There are 2 versions of this tire from Goodyear . here is a link to the OE version . note it only weighs in at 35 lbs, It has less tread depth than the other version also .
This leaves very few tires available to buy at that weight and makes your example even more profound .

$277+ Goodyear Wrangler All-Terrain Adventure with Kevlar Tires

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...7TR6WATA&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

 

strange, this is what I get for the "SL"

so LOL im confused as to which is the REAL OEM tire... cuz 35lb tire is fucking AWESOME. and 42lbs. isnt bad either..

lol I find it impossible to believe "white-lettering" adds 7 lbs....

 

I even manage to tow a shitload of miles with them somehow. No Flats, no problems other than they have gotten loud at 43K miles.

 

There's more to tire weight that affects rolling resistance, like tread pattern

 

LOL fuck me thats awesome.. IM about to swoop up as many as I can find on this place.
Those are GOOOD tires, and this place is so utterly wrong in passing judgement on them.
they perform well in most environments, produce factory MPG figures, and most of all last decent and Weigh little.
I mean if you figure VOLKS:
-Goodyearkevlar 265/70/16s @35lbs
-Volk Te37 16x8 offset 0 @ 16.8lbs
Total:51.8lbs per wheel/per corner..
vs OEM.
-Goodyearkevlar 265/70/16s @35lbs
-OEM TRD-OR wheel 16x8 offset +25mm @25.3lbs
Total: 60.3lbs per wheel/per corner

60.3(oem)-51.8(volks)= delta 8.5 (per wheel/per corner)
8.5(change in unsprung weight perwheel) x .5(Conservative estimate of drive-train loss of power during conversion to HP)=4.25 (estimated value of HP lost during conversion of motor-power-to-HP)
4.25x4(all 4 corners)=~17

your drive-train would recover roughly the equivalent of 17hp that was lost to the increased MASS the OEM wheel sapped from the power-train.
LOL in this case though, that 17HP recovery of efficiency comes at a cost of ~$2600 (the cost of VolkTe37's) which is a YIKES price for that much HP. But still, if you had the money, there you go.

 

I went from E to C in the same size tire and gained 1.5 mpg. Good but not spectacular.