My 2006 Tacoma brake upgrade (EDITED!!)

That is correct! I forgot to mention that part. Good eye!

 

Yup. Good for those that have done the rear upgrade. Or plan to.

 

Might go ahead and do this in the future- my brakes are probably due soon anyway. OP you're saying around $360 for parts in total?

 

This is the the solution to upgrading my brakes. I wound have dont the 4 runner upgrade awhile back but being a larger piston the Tacoma master cylinder can’t move enough fluid. At least on the vacuum boosters.

 

Outstanding effort and tutorial.

@crashnburn80

 

About 2 weeks ago I towed this heavy ass boat and the braking performance felt extremely dangerous. The boat was either close to or over the Tacomas max towing capacity.
This morning I towed this heavy ass boat that was close to or over the Tacomas max towing capacity.

The driveway for this morning's tow was at or over 20 degrees.


I got the truck up to 20 mph going down this driveway and the truck had no problems whatsoever stopping on the driveway.

I also did a panic type stop on flat ground with the boat in tow and the ABS worked as it should work.

With the new brakes and towing this really heavy boat the braking performance is similar to stock brakes with an empty truck and towing nothing.

Lmao! You guys are hilarious.

That's the problem with my extremely long winded posts (lmao). No, it was not $360.

$222 rotors, calipers and pads. $140 used master cylinder and booster. $90 SS brake lines. About $20 in brake fluid. Professionally bled brakes with that required computer done by a friend at his offroad repair shop with a definite discount ($50). Plus the extended yoke that was free to me. That's $522 total.

 

Rather than cutting the dust shields you can use the larger 4runner shields, they are plug and play. I swapped to them with my StopTech 340mm BBK.

2010+ 4Runner dust shields for 338mm rotors
#47781-60140
#47782-60140

 

Ditto. I’ll add to that too, anyone with gussets or aftermarket spindles, you’ll probably have to cut and bend to fit. I just installed 4Runner DS on Maxtrac spindles and you have to beat them senseless to fit, plus some trimming around the bottom of the caliper.

 

Does anyone know how much force gets placed on the actuating rod? I'm wondering if using a threaded coupler to extend the rod would work. I don't have a welder and thought this might be an easy alternative.

 

Any chance you have a link to the brake kit that you purchased on ebay? Looking to do the same thing.

 

Just curious, what lift are you running with 37's?

 

So you rebuilt the cross member to relocate the LCA's?

 

No. Stock LCA's, stock front suspension crossmember, stock struts, sway bar is in the scrap pile, spacers, cab mount is almost MIA, moderate fender and fender well trimming, cut and hammered pinch weld, hammered cowl, paintable silicone filling the holes from grinding and cracks from hammering, front 1/3 plastic fender liner hacked off, and removed the most forward front crossmember that hangs below the front bumper and ahead of the radiator and replaced with a home built deal. Doesn't ever rub on the street, does rub off road. "If your tires aren't rubbing you can go bigger."

It's a stepping stone for the truck and eventually the whole front end will go in the scrap pile.

 

Just asking because currently I'm prerunner and have FJ trans and manual tcase and planning my 4wd conversion, but still want to run at least 35's. I do not want to run a drop bracket lift. I would like to keep IFS and not do SAS. Lol, I'm not afraid of cutting or fabbing, the only original parts on the truck I believe are the cab, bed, frame, dashboard, tailgate, steering wheel, carpet, glass and LCA's. Just looking for some tips/advice on how you did it

 

Sweet! I plan on making my Prerunner a 4x4 too. Other than the JBA UCA's I did it as cheap as possible, because it's a stepping stone and never offroaded.

Wheel offsets and tire size make huge differences so unless you're using the exact same wheels and tires it doesn't work that way. Mine has 1.25" wheel spacers on the front also.

 

The Tundra booster's actuating rod has 10x1.25mm threads.

 

There's a shit ton of pressure keeping it together and no pressure separating the 2. There isn't any pressure from side to side.

I don't but here's a screenshot of what I bought on eBay. There are others now that are less than $200.

 

I think a threaded coupler should be fine. That was my initial plan along with a piece of all thread to extend it but my hardware store didn't have any in metric. Just make sure you put in a locking nut so that coupler doesn't spin itself loose.

If anyone is interested, I could dig up the part numbers I used for brake line adapters.

 

I’d be interested in the part# for the adapters. I need to do this mod when my breaks are worn out.