TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

there was a GB last year ..

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...booster-groupbuy-feeler-thread-closed.541223/

edit : 2 years ago

 

Shoot I got lots of reading, just on the first post. Potential of lots of spending.
Thanks

 

I neglected to mention but there are three wires so one is ground.

Probably will have to contact AEM.

 

thank us later.... lots later.

 

This one should be a three wire setup. 12V, 5V, reference and ground.

 

Here @TodayWasTHeDaY

 

Something with the AEM sensor. If the truck's sensor was reading no pressure, matching the AEM's, the light would have come on, and your engine would be toast. Burnt and no butter.

 

Finished the intake side of one head

 

looks perfect. maybe a page 1 diary of goodness.

 

One down.

 

Did you ever find your problem?

Where is your oil pressure sender mounted?

I ask because I had a problem with mine. Mine is mounted on an adapter plate, under the oil filter. Initially, my gauge worked fine. Then, it would read zero, or maybe really low pressure. The engine sounded fine, and the oil pressure light did not come on, so I had oil pressure.

One day, while changing the oil and filter, I noticed the mounting bolt was a little loose. Not loose enough for oil to squirt out, but loose enough to be able to tighten it. Guess what? The oil pressure gauge started working again.

Somehow, with the mount being a little loose, the electrical connection was lost. Beats me how, but it works now.

If you also use a plate mount, do check it.

 

That sounds exactly what's going on with mine. Everything feels snug but may have to look closer. Using a meter the other day seemed to bring the sensor back to proper operation for a bit so pretty sure the sensor is flakey. Ordered a new one and hopefully that will clear up the problem. Will check tightness of sandwich plate too

 

Looks like I'll be coming over to the dark side.

I just picked up a supercharger from a truck that was in a front end collision. The supercharger only has 3,000 miles on it. They also removed it bagged and labeled every single bolt.

The coolant pump, hood support latch and heat exchanger were damaged in the accident. I ordered a new pump from Amazon and modified the stock hood support latch to work with the heat exchanger. I pressurized the heat exchanger and it still holds pressure but it is slightly bent.

Does anyone know of a drop in replacement heat exchanger? I am looking for one I can use with minimal modification possibly and upgraded one. I also need the little rubber pads that go on the bottom of the heat exchanger, if anyone knows of some good replacements.

 

I wouldn't worry about that heat exchanger. From what you have posted it looks sound still. Install everything, let's get you all modified and just enjoy it!

For the rubber pads that hold the bottom of the exchanger in place I have a link posted in page 1 almost at the top. Contact them, they may be able to hook you up. Worst comes to worst you can always cut some cooling hose and just fit it in there. It just serves as a metal to metal isolated, so it doesn't have to be sophisticated or fancy if you can't find replacement stuff.

The first thing that needs to go is that tensioner. Lol. A nice Roush unit with a LFP double bearing roller from LFP will fit just peachy in there.

Then, a Qwickchange pulley.

That will get you on the ground running.

 

You do any bench flow testing for some flow data? I know when I did porting in school it was surprisingly easy to flow less air with larger ports by unintentionally introducing turbulence in the port. I certainly wasn’t a pro when I did it, it looked way better, but flowed less as tested by the flow bench.

 

I didn’t flow test it. Just trying to smooth out the castings.

 

You can build a basic one at home for cheap using a shop vac if it was something you are interested in trying before porting the 2nd head, so you have a before and after numbers. You do want to be sure to setup a test using the same size cylinder bore as the 4.0.

https://www.musclecardiy.com/cylind...ench-port-flow-testing-cylinder-heads-part-3/

Of course there is a lot more to the head flow characteristics than peak flow, so it is a bit of an over simplified metric.

 

Page 2, part A3 (rubber grommets) is what you are looking for. When I spoke to them for parts I didn’t have this document. They got butt hurt about me fumbling around for parts and said they could only sell by the bag. However, once I got this document they capitulated and sold me the individual parts as needed. MUCH CHEAPER, just have your inventory done and send them this document or read off the part numbers to them. Tim Clifton is whom I spoke about when I called. Inventory was very useful for me to find all the little stuff I didn’t have. I also have some spare tubing and heat exchanger special tubing if you need it. I bought a used SC with a partial used install parts and some new bags but didn’t use it all.

 

My co worker builds motors and mentioned leaving the intake ports a little rougher for this reason. He had been building since the early honda days and used to street race so he always tried his hand at it. Your comment reminded me of that experience.

 

It’s a beautiful day...