Changed My Gear Oil. Not Happy with Transmission

07 manual. Changed diffs, T-case and transmission using 80w90 Supertech Dino for everything. All new drain and fill gaskets.
Transmission shifts hard for the first few minutes (cold here). Fine after warms up for 3 or 4 minutes even just idling and not moving. In low range it wants to creep ahead even in neutral when the clutch is engaged. Never acted this way before. Plan on leaving it in the diffs and T-case but as soon as it warms up a little I plan to drain and refill the transmission with something else. Any recommendations?

 

this otta work........

Lucas GL5 for the gear boxes..little less $$

 

I'm interested in other options as well. Running redline MT 90 in my 5 speed and it grinds between 3rd-4th at high rpms. Also my clutch is super sticky below freezing temps.

 

I've had good luck with Lucas and Royal Purple in my 6 speed manual. Just make sure it's GL-4 rated for the transmission. Diffs and transfer case don't care.

 

Get rid of the clutch shuttle valve and the sticky clutch problem should be resolved.

 

Wondering if going back to OEM trans fluid would be a good move.....given the situation.

 

If redline still grinds, try

$34 Ford XT-M5-QS Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart , black

Ford XT-M5-QS. Not cheap but should do the trick. Also, I found the TRD short shifter helped quite a bit.

 

Cant vouch for it but heard and read this might help...

$16 Lubegard 63010 Platinum Automatic Transmission Fluid Protectant, 10 oz.

Lubegard 63010 Platinum Universal ATF Protectant

 

Well I'm in the mountains of western Maine and the Toyota recommended stuff works fine for me.

 

Redline MTL might be a better choice than their MT-90. I used it many years ago in an old Miata and it worked great in that application.

 

What does that do? Have a link to the procedure?

I’ve used AMSoil in both diffs, MT, and tcase with no problems

 

I think shaeff is referring to the accumulator delete mod. Search that, you’ll find the dude who did an excellent write up and sells the part needed.

It’s a good modification to give the clutch a more positive feel. In my case, it definitely made an improvement but not as pronounced as what I read described. Yesterday, I looked under at the clutch switch to see if I can adjust it, no. Also found the clutch master cylinder leaking brake fluid onto the interior carpet under the pedal, frickin great. I’m sure once I fix it it’ll have a better feel.

 

You want to use Redline GL-4 in your transmission, and their GL-5 in your LSD. You don't want the additional friction modifiers in your transmission, but you do want that around your clutch plates in the diff.

 

Yep, that's it. Couldn't think of the word "accumulator" for some reason. Thanks!

Here's a link to a write-up on removal, though there are many. Basically, some guys just bend the line and connect with a union, some install a small line in between. Pick your poison.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/mt-accumulator-delete-mod-adm-and-bs-thread.568303/

Edit: I'm not sure if the four banger trucks have the accumulator or not, you'll have to crawl under to inspect.

 

I have the 5 speed and it currently has Mobil 1 80-90W (75-90?). Per the owner's manual, GL-5 is fine in this transmission. But, on a cold morning, the initial shift into second gear must be done carefully. I'm not crazy about that, so I was thinking about Redline MT-90 in the future

 

From the Redline website:

Since most GL-5 gear oils for differentials are too slippery for manual transmissions, Red Line offers these products that ensure proper shifting while providing ultimate wear protection

• Appropriate coefficient of friction for most manual transmission synchronizers (other's synthetic gear oils are often too slippery for proper synchro engagement)

https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-90-75w90-gl-4-gear-oil

 

@ryfox0276 before you remove the clutch shuttle valve make sure you truly understand why engineers put it there in the first place. If anything I would rather you replace it with a new or aftermarket one rather than a complete delete. Clutch shuttle valves are installed by engineers to protect the drive train from sudden jolts/shocks from bad shifting habits we all have. The shuttle valves acts as a cushion to reduce the shock/stress going to your drive train when you don't shift cleanly, or go playing off-road popping clutches doing donuts, towing in stop and go traffic, etc. Not saying that our Tacoma's can't handle a lot of stress, they can, but why risk pre-mature failure of any part of your drive train.

If you have problems with a sticky clutch replace the MT oil first, then check your shuttle valve for proper operation and if it's bad replace it. Seals get old and worn out and freezing weather makes some oil flow slower, so use high quality fluid as others have mentioned. There's gonna be guys that will say they have deleted the shuttle valve and have ran X many miles without problems. Well, I'm a mechanical engineer who's spent years studying/designing/building/troubleshooting pneumatic systems for heavy construction equipment to multi-ton industrial equipment that see much more stress and much higher loads than a little Tacoma. We use shuttle valves to protect critical components in many pneumatic systems that we want to last. We will rebuild or replace the shuttle valve but very rarely remove it. Many racing/rally enthusiasts will delete the shuttle valve to get the response and performance they want, but that's because they upgrade their drive train with components that are built for the rigors of competition. Many of us don't go to that extent. We just delete the valve and think that's good. Anyways, at the end of the day it's your truck, but we're here to help. I'm just throwing in my 2 cents to give you something to think about. Best of luck.

 

I've read into the accumulator delete mod prior to this thread and while it looks interesting, I don't think the problems I'm having would be solved by removing this. I never had any problems with my transmission/ clutch with the OEM fluid. Think I'll just go to Toyota to pick some up next time.

And when I mean below freezing I mean well below freezing, like 10 and below. Not a problem for most people in the States.

 

MT oil should have no effect on how fast or slow the clutch releases. I understand what it does, and I personally think it's garbage. I've been driving manual transmissions for well over 20yrs, never had a clutch accumulator, and I'll remove it from every vehicle I ever get that has one. I don't need a device to lessen drivetrain shock/strain. That's what my left foot is for. I also don't need it wearing down my clutch on a hard shift or fast acceleration if and when that's needed. I drive manual transmissions without the accumulator smoother than I did my Tacoma WITH the accumulator. It's garbage.

There's a big difference between heavy equip. and a Tacoma. While I appreciate your expertise, we will forever disagree on the garbage clutch feel of the v6 Tacoma.

Garbage. /rant.

PS- Don't take that rant personally, I'm just having fun although my sentiment toward the accumulator remains forever.

 

As your link notes, GL-5 oils generally contain sulfur additives that damage syncros. Therefore I avoid GL-5 oils in my transmissions.