CSF All Aluminum Performance Radiator For our trucks FINALLY!!!

Looks like a wash

 

My thought is you are just buying the radiator, and if there isn't any significant difference between the two, why does the Taco radiator cost $100 more? Both are "drop in" radiators, requiring no modification, and the FJ shroud and tank shouldn't even be a consideration of the price of this radiator.

They look identical, the descriptions are identical, the parts that come with both are identical, yet one costs $100 more?

It just doesn't pass the "logic" test.

 

The taco radiator is newer. Either they are trying to cover their R&D costs or it is more expensive to make. Otherwise no one seems to have a clue on here.

 

Fj radiator is taller

 

One would think taller = more aluminum = more $$$

 

Guys, go to CSF's website and it says that they make the FJ Crusiers a single row and the Tacomas a double row. So the double row must be more expensive to make. Also if you guys haven't read it yet, besides the extra parts for fitting the FJ's radiator into a Tacoma you also need to bend the transmission lines that run under the radiator.
Well to me with the fact that after buying the parts the price is a wash it's a no brainer. I'm getting the Tacoma specific radiator for replacement this summer.

 

Gadget's website says they're both "2 row"

From the FJ/4-Runner page:
2-row, 42mm ultra-high performance radiator core

From the Tacoma page:
2-row, 42mm ultra-high performance radiator core

https://www.urdusa.com/performance-cooling/

Now Gadget may have copy & pasted the Tacoma info for both radiators by mistake. If that's the case, I fully understand why the Tacoma radiator would cost $100 more than the other one.

 

From those who have the new drop in version, where is the best place to buy these? Any warranty provided that anybody knows of, whether it be through the vendor or CSF itself? I have followed this thread from the beginning and have read everything. Finally ready to pull the trigger on one of these.

@JustDSM did you receive the AFE?

@Roostfactor any update on this brotha?

 

lol the bending part is nothing at all. You are basically moving the lines down with your hands. It is nothing to worry about at all. They are metal lines so you just give a slight pull and boom they don’t rub the bottom of the radiator.

Highly unlikely as the fj radiator came out first, so he wouldn’t have had tacoma specs to copy.

 

Also the tacoma radiator should technically be larger if you calculate the volume according to CSF’s specs
Fj: 756.89
Tacoma: 913.86
One thing to consider the tacoma does get more volume by being thicker which isn’t always a good thing. It’s 3/8” thicker though so probably not too big of an issue. Pick your poison.

 

Long story short, I canceled my order.

I purchased the radiator during the pre-release sale they had, and was fine with waiting. However, during the wait time, I purchased a new home/moved and aFe was not willing or able to amend the order to have the shipping address updated. Their only option was to cancel the order and re-order at full price. I opted for the refund but have not placed an order for any new radiator at this point.

 

Gotcha, well that sucks brotha. They seem to still be on preorder right now on their website at the same-ish cost as the CSF. It's a toss-up between the two now.

 

Random story. Bought the truck almost 10 yrs ago, first owner drove it 1.5 yrs then thought it was not big enough for him. Only got one key from dealer when I bought it (I have since made a couple of spares). So fast forward to Jan/2019 and I’m bending my transmission lines to fit this new fancy CSF FJ radiator when I feel a mesh with what I thought was a rock. Turns out last owner had duct taped the spare key here. All these years of hard driving (river crossings, sand dunes, a jump or two) and the duct tape held up. So there is your random CSF radiator story of the day. Carry on fellas.

 

I'm OK with the higher price if the Tacoma's radiator is thicker & providing better cooling. Surprised there is a difference, since the Tacoma, FJC, & 4-Runner all have the same 4.0L engine. Maybe FJCs & 4-Runners have less space in front of their 4.0L?

 

Well again right from the manufacturer. Their website says the FJ is a single row and the Tacoma's is a double row.

 

I can confirm that, tacoma is 2 row. I have both sitting in the garage. Honestly not sure which one to install. My instinct is that the dual row will cool more BTUs compared to slightly taller single row, both in highway hills and high load, as well as slow off roading. But the fan shroud will be spaced back by the difference in thickness, and that shows up at the plastic top plate that goes from the radiator shroud top to the core support. given that, and the outer edge gaps seen on the tacoma radiator to shroud, I'm thinking that the FJ with the appropriate shroud and tank is an easier no air leak install.

What say you, which one would you run if you had both? Bending the trans lines is a NON issue.

 

FJ fits the 4Runner as well. Have better ducting flow than the Tacoma design.

Electric fans are always an option as well. Which a few members have successfully integrated either into the OEM shroud or with their own shroud design.

Space limitations, when supercharged, are a contender for electric fans.

Totally didn't answer your question though. Lol.

 

Has anyone ever considered using a flex fan to replace the stock fan, instead of electric fans?

I put a 5.0L in my Ranger, and originally used an electric fan. Due to space limitations, there really wasn't enough room for a proper shroud with the electric fan. To replace it, I built (from a kit) a custom aluminum shroud around a flex fan. My cooling problems were solved.

The flex fan is lighter than the stock fan, so the water pump pulley is happier. It moves a lot of air, so the coolers in front of the radiator are happy too.

It seems like this would be a good solution for a Tacoma, but no one (that I know of) has installed one.

Any thoughts?

 

I did get it and installed it. Definitely not a drop in but I used a Derale thermostat to control temps, removed stock trans cooler, and have bypassed the radiator.
Temps have not been above 180 in the summer but not tested towing.

Sorry I dont have any pics handy but it is a really beefy and durable unit.

 

What was the part # on that? I might want to do that when I tackle this whole thing. I’m at my coolant service interval and I’m using it as an excuse to upgrade the whole system.