Front Diff and Transfer Case Oil Change Howto

Part numbers are all the same for 1st and 2nd Gen. (Reconfirmed when changing fluids in my son's 1st Gen last weekend.)

1st gen, 2nd gen - Crush Washer/Gasket Kit for Both Diffs + Transfer Case

 

Thanks @Norton for sharing this info above. Your effort is appreciated!

 

I'm an old fart with an old girl truck and this is my first attempt at changing gear oils. TW help has been great. Taking it slow and applied PB blaster a couple of times before I even tried to break the tourque.

Lots of greasy grime so things were coated nice but not rusty.


The elusive fill plug. I think the OP had a 2nd. Gen

A zerk I never new was there LCA bushing and only on the driver side?

Cool stickers were revealed under the grime on factory parts

 

I was able to break the torque on the transmission,transfer case and front differential with no issues.



I purchased the special front diff drain plug just in case and will install

I will set the fill plug torque with this El cheapo socket head..... hopefully it doesn't break

I am assuming the torque is the same as the 2nd gen but will research more? I had a victory drink after breaking the torque on the front diff drain with no issues!

 

Previous owner likely replaced the driver's side LCA cam bolt with an SPC/Moog aftermarket one

 

That makes total sense

 

So both diffs and transfer case are how many quarts total ?

 

Yes I do have the owners manual I should look

 

Changed rear/front diff fluids and transfer case yesterday. Here's my way of not forgetting the torque specs for all the plugs.

 

how 'bout this stuff....bought it for $18/quart

confusion on GX 460 X/fer case oil.......this is Toyota spec

 

That's probably a really good gear oil. I have never seen or heard of it. It's nice that you get a full Litre instead of 946 mL in the US quart.

 

I just put this stuff in my manual tranny… It's pricey… probably won't notice a difference but it's good peace of mind.

 

get it from Amazon.......$18/qt......

same price as most premium oils

 

3 quarts of the good stuff in the rear diff

 

put those numbers on or near the relative plug with an appropriate industrial marker and you'll never have to look them up again....

 

My system is adding stickies inside the manual.

Thanks for the write-up OP!

Did rear, manual trans, TC, and then stripped drain bolt on front. Mechanic nearby broke it loose for $20, then got a new bolt from Toyota ($11) and finished fluid replacement on the front diff.

 

Sort of off topic but related question: Does the painted (bearing/ bushing) surface of this new remanufactured axel (from CVJ Axel -Denver CO) give any concern? Obviously the old CV's wear surface is shinny smooth bear metal from 237k miles of use.... OR am I overthinking this?

 

It would probably (maybe?) be fine but might chip off and get into your gear oil, I’m not sure why they would paint that? If they want to protect it from surface rust during shipping or storage, why not just coat it in a light oil and plastic bag it? I don’t think I’ve ever seen another axle with the internal/splined portion of the axle painted.

I think if that was mine I think I would burn that paint off with a torch, obviously being mindful of not getting the boots or grease too hot. Maybe give CVJ a call and ask them why it’s painted and if it’s a cause for concern before you do anything. I wouldn’t want that paint flaking off and going through the needle bearings where the cv rides in the diff or circulating in the gear oil.

 

yeah, i'm on the fence with this. Another in another thread indicated that they had done 2 different axels from CVJ and both looked like this.... I just put in the ECGS Bushing to replace the needle bearing. I think i'm going to put it in after lunch.....