TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Wow. I use IKH-24 which are also around 0.028 so I wonder if that's why I haven't seen this problem.

 

Don't you spray meth? I would think

$12 IKH24 Denso 5346 Spark Plug

IKH24 is too cold for meth. The boost pressures that you and I see, actually the boost pressures that most of us see at that require a smaller plug gap due to the increase in cylinder pressures under boost.

If anyone wants to run NGK (which I still fully give my blessing to) you will have to regap the plugs down to .028 - .031.

 

I'm not really clear on the theory behind how cold of a plug to use and how it relates to the use of meth, but my idea was the drawback of colder plugs is carbon buildup, but the water part of water/meth prevents carbon build up so they cancel out.

 

I glued mine on with The Right Stuff RTV.

 

That's fair. It has been my findings that IKH-22 can handle all of the power that we put out though so there is no need to step up to one step colder plugs like the IKH24s. Even on tuning, Justin found that the 22s have plenty of headroom for our trucks, so to me, why mess with the winning formula you know what I mean?

 

Yeah, you're probably right.

$12 IKH24 Denso 5346 Spark Plug

IKH24 would be for extreme boost or compression. 10-14psi probably not needed.

 

Y’all think I should try to put something on there for a gasket or roll without it ?

 

If you don't have the right material to form a gasket in place of the stock one I would just run it without one for the time being until you can get one. It's not difficult to remove the inner cooler lid anyways so you can honestly just get one and put it on later and the only thing that will happen is you will probably see an increase in boost but your overall temperatures of the blower would likely rise a little more due to the fact that the air is not being entirely cooled from the inside.

 

so when installing the

$39 NGK LFR6AIX-11 - 6 PCSNEW

NGK LFR6AIX-11/ 6619, fresh out of the box the gap has to be adjusted ? I just threw some of these on my truck, good thing i havent put the supercharger back on..

 

It depends how much boost you are pushing. I'd probably say once you get past 10-11 psi gap becomes a little more critical as tolerances in general need to be more precise and on lower boost pressures the gap can be a little more sloppy, or lenient.

How would you gap them if so? A standard gapping tool will not fly.

 

I'm currently running the URD stealth 2.85 pulley, i only hit like 7-8 psi at WOT... Think i should regap ?

I just bought one of these on Amazon , gonna give it a shot.. anybody ever use these ?

$33 K-Motor Spark Plug Gap Tool with Feeler Gauge (M14 x 1.5 Thread) Made of Stainless Steel (14mm)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPVTCQX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Ehh... I ran 7-8 psi on NGK and I never regapped and I didn't have detectable spark knock. I'll leave the judgement call up to you, but that is one damn nice gapping tool! I used feeler gauges to figure out what my gap was and went slowly into the gap to determine what mine were set at.

OE IKH-22 is supposed to be set at .031 from the factory. The reason they go smaller is due to the increase in cylinder pressures that boost creates since spark blowout is a real thing as pressure inside the combustion chamber increases.

Pull them out and gap them if you can afford it, that's probably what I would do since you have the blower off. I need to update page 1.

 

So I am curious, do you think switching from copper to iridium helped the spark knock or was it just the coldness of the plug that fixed your issue?

 

I stopped running copper as soon as I got tuned properly. Copper plugs were simply a perishable item for me due to the fact that I was running pig rich under most part throttle circumstances with the original TRD Tune. Since they are much cheaper than Iridiums I figured it was a no brainier to run them even if they would only last 10-20,000 miles the inconvenience of replacing plugs was offset for the cost of coppers at the time. I have also been running heat range 6/ IKH-22 equivalent plugs for about 85% of the blowers overall life on my truck. I just simply found that IKH-24 is overkill and will cause worst fuel economy as well as more carbon build up in the engine internals for the power levels we are running.

A more recent log with Justin I ran confirmed that the OE plugs heat range (IKH-22) with our blowers was more than enough to suit the bill even for the power levels I'm at now.

The issue for me was actually gap, and thinking about it once over it makes sense I had spark knock at .043 that NGKs come in. That's a massive gap for boost, especially 16 PSI.

The only X factor here which none of us have tried here are the Rutheniums as they are supposed to provide a larger flame front inside the combustion chamber which would actually met better fuel economy due to an even further complete burn, theoretically there should be more power made from them as well.. I was considering giving them a whirl but since they come gapped at .043 I really didn't want to screw around with plugs and I just decided to run the 100% originals this time around. Maybe once they become more commercially available, I'll experiment with them.

I've got replacing plugs on this truck down to a science which only takes about 40 minutes now start to finish (excluding putting tools away). No blower removal needed so doing plugs for me is a meager task.

 

you should throw up some pics on how you are getting to the plugs below the supercharger

 

Uhh.. it's really easy actually. All you need is a swiveling 5/8 Mac socket, a 4" 3/8 extension Snap On attached to a 3/8 swivel Snap On which attaches to a 8" locking extension Snap On. I then attach that crazy rig to my Makita and then use my hand to keep the extension rig closest to the socket straight in the spark plug tube then blast away to remove the plugs. I do that 3 times then install them in the reverse fashion after threading the plugs in by hand (of course!). That's about it. Removing the connectors from the coils, well that's another story.

 

I wish there was a shop near you to do some Dyno runs. Compare the expected MAF g/s to whp. See what yours is laying down, as well as what kind of drivetrain loss yours has.

 

I wish there was as well. I have attempted to reach out to a few places and they charge stupid money to do dyno runs, not to mention their dynos are down until further notice. I used to have one at my work but we ripped it out a few years back. That thing was capable of telling you what your car or truck could lay down, but the issue was the owner was too scared of a vehicle coming off the rollers while doing a dyno pull. It's irritating how much of a worry wart he is. Lol.

 

Knowledge overcomes risks.

 

4 of 6 of my plugs came out looking like this after 40k ish miles.. any idea what could be going on? Looks like the iridium tips burned off or broke off.. these are

$9 IKH22 Iridium Power Spark Plug, (Pack of 1)

IKH22’s