Otis24's Otisbound Outdoors Bodonkadonk Supercharged Twin Locked Micro Camper Build (OOBSTLMC)

Spotted your truck on the not cal camping thread. Looking gouda

 

Oh yeah, @theed took that pic. His truck is the 3rd gen front middle. The dudes with the 4runners on either side were cool.

 

Yeah, what a coincidence it was running into you up there.

 

So are you telling me that sweet metal drawer system and platform you built is now sitting sideways in your garage with crap in it? I’m spending hours and hours trying to see if anyone has built anything I can replicate and you have that thing collecting dust.... that hurts my heart man. Real bad..... . Awesome build thread!

 

Actually the shelf/platform got moved. It's outside behind the garage now.

I would argue an aluminum platform would be easier to build than a wooden one. It's going to be way lighter, it doesn't care about water, probably just as strong or stronger. However, it will be more expensive.

All you need to do is get 1"x 1" x1/16 square tube, make a box with a divider down the middle and attach sheet metal onto the sides and stick something on top. Then make drawers.

You can cut aluminum tube with a miter saw with either a non ferrous metal blade or a wood blade you don't care about.
You can cut the sheet metal with a flush cut router bit. Or get harbor freight sheet metal shears for cheap. Or have your local metal supplier cut them to the dimension you want.
You can attach the sheet metal with double sided sticky tape. I recommend 3M CV62F (surface prep is everything), some kind of adhesive, or rivets. The sheet metal doesn't need to be thick. It's only going to provide shear strength. The tube will provide the compression strength.
Then stick some eye bolts in the sides of the platform and eye bolts in the bed of your truck and connect the two with turnbuckles.
Lastly cover the top with something like 3/8" plywood. I looked into twin walled polycarbonate covered with a thin layer of plastic wall covering like this stuff - https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190 (I'm using this in parts of my camper). it'd be light but I'm not sure about how impact resistant the polycarbonate would be. It seems kinda brittle.

 

I assume you have to weld the aluminum tubes together to build the. I’d though right? I can’t imagine some sort of plate and bolts system would be very good.

 

No welding. Yes, plates and bolts would be no good. Plates, bolts plus an adhesive attached skin for shear strength is much stronger without the complication of welding aluminum. This is how Airstream campers are built. Except that the internal ribs aren't' attached to each other. They only hold the skin in place. Those things last forever too.

This is my basic understanding...I'm not a welder or an engineer. I've spoken to welders, fabricators and engineers about this project but this is more or less what I've learned. I can weld steel okay but have never welded aluminum.

Unlike welding steel when you weld aluminum the weld is the weakest part of the system. The aluminum becomes brittle unless you can heat treat it with an oven. Also, unless you're a really really good welder good luck welding 1/16" tube. So, you need thicker tube which is heavier. And you also run into warping when you weld aluminum so you'll need to make a jig 1st along with your heavier aluminum. In the end you get a potentially weaker more brittle joint in a system that is heavier. You can see this in the early models of Four Wheel Drive Campers...they had frame failures from brittle welds. They fixed it by having larger shaped tubes for more welding surface area. Or at least I think that was it...could be wrong. Could be wrong about all this...oh well...it'll have to wait for Bondonkadonk 2 (JDM imported turbo diesel 80 series with the back chopped off and a camper in it's place)

If you're mass producing these things and they need to be bomb proof because you're selling them the speed of welding and the weight of the thicker tube would probably be better. But as a one off I think gussets, mechanical fasteners and good double sided tape is pretty good.

Keep in mind that platform behind the garage had a spare tire and a fridge living on top of it full time for about 2 years. In that time is saw about a month of rough Baja roads (around 2500 miles of rough roads at high speed) plus about 150 nights of camping...pretty much all rough dirt roads and rock crawley type stuff. Zero failures. Not even any signs of wear.

The camper's long term durability is yet to be seen. So far it's done about 1500 miles of Baja roads and one other trip of off roading....not a whole lot. It'll have a lot more forces acting on it than the platform. The platform was pretty much independant of the frame flex because it's isolated. The camper is mounted right to the frame. It's mounted on bushings and then the frame of the truck has a few things to stiffen it up like sliders welded to it, 3/16" CBI frame plates and 2 additional cross members made from 1"x4"x.125" steel welded into the C channel of the rear part of the frame. These crossmembers are the supports for the 2nd gas tank. I have no idea how much these act on frame flex but at full flex at the top of the stock bed there was about 1/4" of flex across the whole length of the stock bed. So the frame does flex a fair bit. Brittle welds will brake for sure.

One of the big weak areas of the camper is if it gets impacted by a tree or something. It'll be screwed. There was a vagabond drifter that rolled onto its side and partially onto the camper itself. The camper probably saved the truck. My camper is nowhere near that strong. It'll explode. But I don't want it to be because I want it to be light (the vagabond is also light, just way better engineering and a fab shop at their disposal and masterful welders). I'll be careful with it.

Another weakness is the sides are actually 2 separate pieces where the bend occurs. If I were to do it again I'd have the sides and the rear bent by a fabrication shop and keep them one solid piece. Much stronger that way. Actually I might not use aluminum at all. Probably more like fiberglass epoxy over foam...like a surfboard. You can get much more graceful curves that way.

Also the OSB floor still has me worried. I made it so it can be replaced. It'll be a giant pain in the ass but it'll be doable. So far it's holding up well but it's barely been used. I encased the whole thing in garage floor epoxy. In hindsight I should have wrapped in it in fiberglass cloth and epoxied it. Although, at the time I was working on the OSB time was super super short.

 

Gringas got hitched.

 

I added the third passenger side door last weekend. It'll function as a work surface as well as a door.
I covered the work surface side with plastic wall covering stuff.

 

@realsystem

I dug up some links this morning.

Hoffen Cabinet Boxes Lever Handle Toggle Catch Latch Lock Clamp Hasp Stainless Steel

$10 316 Stainless Steel Toggle Latch Clamp Marine Cabinet Boxes Lever Handle Toggle Catch Lock Clamp Hasp

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FR4MNMH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_DgryEbREG2C5B

3M 111 Clear Tape Primer - Liquid Bottle - For Use With 3M VHB Tape - 58147 [PRICE is per BOTTLE]

$30 3M 111 Clear Tape Primer - Liquid Bottle - For Use With 3M VHB Tape - 58147 [PRICE is per BOTTLE]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00745Z8BK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_FiryEbR049ZQA

I've yet to sleep on this so I have no idea if it's any good.
AmericanMade Full Size 3 Inch Firm Conventional Polyurethane Foam RV/Truck Mattress Bed Cushion USA Made

American Full Size 3" Firm Conventional Polyurethane Foam RV/Truck Mattress Bed Cushion USA Made

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3H9V0G/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_LjryEbZE54463

McMaster Carr might have better cable gland things, but I used this one. So far so good.
BougeRV ABS Solar Double Cable Entry Gland Box Waterproof Weatherproof Fits for All Cable Types 2mm² to 6mm² for Solar Project on RV Camper Van Travel Trailer Boat Cabin

$10 BougeRV Solar Weatherproof Double Cable Entry Gland, Cable Through RV roof Solar Junction Box abs Entry housing for 14AWG to 10AWG Solar Cables for Solar Project on RV, Campervan, Boat, Van（Gray）

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GDH2TTV/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_VkryEbJFFS9N6

The camper is mounted on these -
Energy Suspension 2.4101G CJ BODY MOUNT SET

$28 Energy Suspension 2.4101G Body Mount for CJ5-7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN57HG/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_YlryEb3PH85RG

I might replace these with a different Southco compression latch that more water resistant.
2PCS Compression Latch OEM Replacement C2-43-25 Flush Lever Marine Cabinet Lock with Key

2PCS Compression Latch OEM Replacement C2-43-25 Flush Lever Marine Cabinet Lock with Key

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QWWP8JK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_FmryEbXE9R7PK

Diablo D1080N Non-Ferrous Metal & Plastic Cutting Saw Blade

$50 Diablo D1080N Non-Ferrous Metal & Plastic Cutting Saw Blade

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008WQ38/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_ZoryEbTHG9CMJ


3M specifically reccommends this roller for pressing the VHB Tape.
Long Handle J-Roller With Rubber Roller 1-1/2" in diameter by 2-7/8" wide. For Veneers, Laminate And Edge Banding

$15 Fulton Long Handle J Roller with Thick Rubber Roller 1-1/2” in Diameter by 2-7/8” Wide For Veneers Laminate Wall Coverings and Edge Banding for Maximum Pressure Adhesion

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00409KRB4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_NpryEbQNVY964


So far I've used 6 rolls of this stuff. I paid a lot more for the 1st 4.
https://sri-supplies.com/tapes-349/3m-vhb-tape-cv62f-1-x-36yd.html
https://sri-supplies.com/3m-vhb-commercial-vehicle-tape-cv45f-gray-1-in-x-36-yd-45-0-mil.html

You'll want a wire brush to help peal the backing off the vhb tape. You'll drive yourself mad if you use your fingers.
Performance Tool W1149 Brass, and Stainless Steel 3-Piece Brush Set

$8 Performance Tool W1149 3-Piece Brass and Stainless-Steel Wire Brush Set

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N3209S/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_9sryEb9SESN61

I used these for all my door hinges with #10 stainess screws, bolts and washers from ACE hardware. When I finally paint the camper I'll seal all the screw holes with 3M 5200.
https://www.gemlux.com/121502

These are larger hinges I used for the pop top. They're bigger but not as heavy duty as the ones above.
https://www.gemlux.com/1758

I bought these too. They're flimsy with a lot of play. I might still use them for something in the interior.

$15 SeaLux Marine Grade Stainless Steel Mirror Polished Door Hinge 3" x 1.5" for Boat, RVs (Pair)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ANG7YOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the camera.
VVCAR 12" Mirror Dash Cam 1296P Backup Camera with GPS Touch Screen Front and Rear View Dual Lens Full HD WDR Night Vision, G-Sensor (Free 32GB SD Card) for Cars/Trucks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z5X5ZSZ/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_HzryEbVWG06ZV

 

@realsystem

This is the plastic wall panel.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190

I haven't been able to get it to adhere to the VHB tape or the loctite PL 300 very well at all.

I'm going to try the loctite PL8X I have when I get home tonight. The PL300 and PL8X both take forever to cure so I won't know how well it worked for a few days.

If I can't get it to adhere well I'm might use .030 aluminum instead.

What is the panel you were telling me about?

 

AluPanel/Dibond for outside and FRP for inside but not sure about this(https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glaslin...0-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836)

 

Cool, thanks!

We have that stuff on the walls at work...and pretty much every kitchen I've worked in.
It's super super tough. It's heavy but it'll last forever. We have one section that gets scrubbed with a stainless scrubby multiple times a week. This kitchen was built in 1997. It looks fine.

 

Also, almost forgot about this guy. He's a sign maker.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIrIgPJG0Ow&list=LLGxJnfyyLystWkH-Vhgr8hg&index=12&t=265s

 

Just checked RJ3 sign shop in SJ personally, they have B-bond 3mm $79(4'x8') and $111(5'x10'). This is ideal for my camper.

 

Yeah, that's not bad. The 5' width is super nice.
The dibond looks really good!
For comparison I paid $93.45 a sheet for 4'x12' .050 6061 AL or $510 for for 5 pieces with tax.

I got most of my tube from Tube Service in Milipitas. I don't know how they compare cost wise to anyone else. They were the only company willing to deliver to where I live and they only charged $20 for delivery. The 4" tubes were 24 feet long. They might have fit on my truck.
I got:
40 feet of 1"x2"x.125"
72 feet of 1"x4"x.125"
260 feet of 1"x1"x .063"
For $1241.19

I guestimated pretty well.
So far I'm short about 20 feet on the 1"x1" and 12 feet too much on the 1x4...those are going to become table legs for desk.

 

Called today, no tubes with my sizes They pointed to Coast Aluminum and I found what I need. It's the same set of sizes that you have.

 

Huh, all they sell are tubes and they don’t have pretty common sizes.

 

Fixed the stove slide. It was locked closed and wouldn’t open.
I removed the lid to the stove. It wouldn’t open before.
I drilled holes for the stove valves.






it’s a little janky looking. Some day I’ll replace the OSB with something nice and paint it.

 

This door-

Folds down

and is meant to used as a work surface when it’s horizontal. I’ve played around with rope and bungies but they don’t work all that well.

A simple leg works pretty well. You can adjust it by moving from one tire lug to another. Another upside to mud terrain tires.