2013 2.7 2WD Clutch Change

Getting ready to change a clutch on a 2013 2.7 2WD. Is there any tips or tricks to this? Is there any qwerks to disconnecting the shifter? Also, is the slave cylinder a PITA, or require a bleed afterwards? TIA

 

The hydraulics will need bleeding if you have to open the system.

Curious how many miles a 13 has that it needs a clutch.......... and what 'kind' of miles, because hwy miles don't really matter.

Or was it just abused?

 

Will the hydraulics need to be opened? Or can you disconnect and support out of the way without pissing fluid? I think the truck has about 180K with alot of around town driving (delivering pizza's). It's preventive manx, not required yet.

 

Ok, changed the clutch this weekend. I bought the Haynes e-Manual and wasn't impressed. I looked at each step and it wasn't written to address a clutch change. The clutch actuator just needs unbolted from the tranny.....no need to open the hydraulics and disconnect it. No exhaust pipes needed disconnected. 3 FT of extensions are your friend to loosen the top bellhousing bolts. Recommend using 1/2" drives socket and universal, then go to a 3/8" dive extension if that's all you have. I busted a 3/8" dr universal on the top drivers side bolt. The Haynes manual says to drain the tranny. If you don't have a fancy tranny jack....drain it! Clutch alignment tool isn't needed....just eyeball it with the outer pilot bearing race. I used a 2x10x16" board on a low-profile jack to lift the tranny into place. On the board I screwed on 1x1 boards on each side of the tranny to keep it from rolling much. And I took a key-hole saw and cut a circular disc and screwed it on the 2x10 to sit in the jack platform. That prevented the 2x10 from sliding on the jack.