Should I sell?

Spark Plugs x6 (you've got a V6 right?) = 17.16$
Transmission fluid x5 qts = 52.45$
Front/Rear diff & Transfer case x8 qts = 103.92$
Front wheel hub/assy x2 (change in pairs) = 209.58$
Coolant/antifreeze x3 (if you're going to do a complete flush) 39.18$

Total: 422.29$

Does not include incidentals and consumables like gaskets and tools you may or may not have, nor did I search for the best deal on these products. You might be able to get fluids cheaper elsewhere and you can save if you don't intend on doing a complete flush (IE not a drain and fill). Hoses might be close to their age limit, there are complete hose kits out there for sale too. That price also doesn't include shipping if you buy online. If you have the space and the time, you can easily knock what you mentioned above out across 2 weekends. Hardest job you'd have would be the wheel hub assy replacement. Knock plugs and fluids out one weekend then do your suspension work the second (or vise versa, your choice). Learn a thing, ask questions, DIY to save yourself monies. You can effectively triple the total that I quoted you and that would be a good starting point if you were to drop it off at a shop for 2 days of work. They might be able to get it done in 1 day if you dropped it off early. You'll still get billed for max hours even if they completed the job early. TW is a huge resource of wise people (and trolls) with a wide range of backgrounds that can help you out, heck, you might even find some local boys to help you out with tools and space if you provided the beverages and food. All of what you mentioned above have write-ups and how-to's here in this forum. Do yourself a solid and save your money. Fix it then drive the tar out of those tires for another 100k+

-J

 

I took my 09 (~160k) to a shop a few months ago.

Tranny drain and fill
Front and rear diff oil
Transfer Case fluid
Spark plugs
ABS sensor
Entire front suspension replacement
Front driver side wheel bearing
Coolant flush and fill
Brake fluid flush and fill

I think it was like $2400 out the door. FWIW, it was the first time any of those had been done (I bought it brand new).

 

Did it run better?

 

Yes, of course. Like brand new. Barely notice it shifting; goes into and out of 4x very smoothly. Pulling down about 21-22 mpg.

I should have done it 5 years ago.

 

OEM Parts?

 

The shocks? Nope; not Bilsteins. Though I did put Bils in when I did the rear shocks after I got it back from the shop.

 

the maintenance you outline isn't very difficult. the spark plugs (for example) are like $20 and 1 hour.

 

Last Saturday I did the diff and transfer case fluid change, full transmission flush and coolant change myself. All you need is a socket set, an $8 pump for the gear oil and ATF and some ramps. Took me about 5 hours taking my time and including time to go out and buy stuff from two different shops since one didn't have the right ATF. I don't think spark plugs would be that much more to DIY. Search craigslist for used 245 tires and get rid of that spacer.

8 hours of time and $600 will save you from losing 1.8k you've sunk in and throwing the dice on a new unknown new vehicle.

 

The problem people tend to over think what they can get 15k at the top end excellent condition. You will know an excellent condition when you see one. You will be lucky to get back enough to pay off loan and buy lunch. Convert back to stock spend $500+ 100k maintenance truck will last you well over another 100k miles. But if you want a newer truck w another loan there is nothing wrong w that. End of day you just need a reliable low maintenance vehicle gets point A to B (advice from older man).

 

I just remembered the timing. Is it a belt or chain on the v6? This could get very pricey.

 

Perhaps change the serpentine belt, but timing chains are metal, good for 200K plus if not making noise.

 

Are you gonna sell every time a used vehicle needs typical maintenance? Rotors and 100k service sounds pretty simple to me... plus remove the shitty spacer lift and buy a used/new set of factory suspension. I just sold brand new Trd coilovers for $50, can’t beat that

 

2nd gen tacos are "off the chain"

 

So a belt? When should I change this?

 

Most of those maintenance items are very easy to do. Our trucks are a breeze to work on. Spark plugs - easy peasy, 30-60 mins tops. Coolant change - easy. Transmission and gear oil change - I haven't done those yet myself, but hear they're pretty easy. If you have a rotor and/or hub that needs to be changed, those are very easy to change.

My point is that, even if you don't want to do ALL the work yourself, there's several maintenance items you easily do to save yourself a lot of money, money you can then put to the tasks that you don't want to do.

I think your list of reasons to get rid of the truck are making the proverbial mountain out of a molehill. The maintenance isn't an issue, and getting rid of that lift and big-ass tires will make a world of difference with your ride. Do those things, and then you've got a very good truck that should last you at least another 100K+ miles.

 

They have a timing chain. We have a guy here with more than 400k miles on his V6 and he hasn’t changed them yet. I’ve seen these engines with over 600k miles on the original chains. These engines have 3 chains, 1 long main chain and one on each head for the exhaust cam. If you keep the oil changed like you should, these chains will likely last longer than you want to drive it. I’ve seen these engines neglected and heavily sludged with stretched chains at relatively low mileages. It’s all about how you take care of them.

Here’s an example of a neglected engine.
https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/threads/p0016-timing-chain-stretch-skip-pix-and-solve.483834/

 

How you know its easy if you never done it. LOL. Most of the work is time/convenience get dirty, make mess, fluid leaks, etc. depends on living situation don't wana deal w the mess my #1 priority. I can probably do front break job it looks pretty "easy" on youtube but would I want to NO. Probably end up spending all day sat/sun and if I screw up somewhere have to get someone w know how or tow just more added stress. Pay for convenience.

 

Lots of good advice here even though some of it may come across as criticism....bottom line is you have one of the most dependable vehicles out there.....

~the tires you most likely have are E rated, which are tough as nails and stiff.... go back to a 265 size tire that is C or Passenger rated.... smoother ride and better gas mileage.
~get rid of lift/spacers.... even smoother ride
~Look up the items on the to do list for 100k service.... Not sure how mechanically inclined you are, but youtube and this site are great resources for DIY maintenance... If you are still not comfortable, find a reputable service shop to take it to.... many folks will agree that these trucks are very easy to maintain...

Besides, if you sell it, what are you going to buy for 2200$ that is better than you have now?
Good luck with whatever you decide.

 

Stock tire size is 30.5 inches. Should I get all terrain 31 inch tires for a bit of off road capability?
What is the conversion for a 31 and how wide should it be?

 

Do you really "need" the next size up? Stick to stock size Discount Tire pricematch everything.

$186 Hankook Dynapro AT2 RF11 all_ Terrain Radial Tire-265/70R16 112T

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M75V6L...colid=8YAKJDMJXL87&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it