3rd Gen JBL PAC APH-TY04 help req

2019 Tacoma with JBL system

Looking for support here for wiring up an LC7i and 4 channel amp.

In the process of figuring out which speaker wires lead to the tweeters so I can sum the outputs using the LC7i.

I decided to check with a 9 volt battery.

Here’s what I was able to figure out and it’s confusing me a little bit.

Speaker 2 = right rear
RR Speaker = subwoofer
Speaker 1 = left rear
Sub 1 = RF Tweeter
Speaker 3 = LF tweeter

You would think Subwoofer 1 would equal 1 of the coils on the DVC sub but it’s routing to the right front tweeter.

Now I’m stumped. Any help is appreciated.

 

Swap the lc7i for the AmpPro. It costs a bit more but it is ABSOLUTELY worth it. No summing needed and no hi-low converting going on.

I was told that the labeling in that harness was for the Camry (can’t confirm or deny this) so I would just continue testing with the 9v and that way you’ll know for sure you’ve got it right

 

Yeah but I got for 60 bucks.

 

You just need to methodically identify what speakers are on what pins in the OEM connectors, then repin/label the the adapter harness accordingly. I wouldn't assume it's all correct as is, even if it's supposed to be.

 

For sure, I just unwrapped and am labeling them as we speak. I’m a little frustrated since PAC supplied very little install instructions with this harness. And it’s 50 bucks.. I could’ve cut, spliced and soldered my own leads.. oh well. I’ll help anyone else out with pictures and diagrams for when I’m done. At least some good will come out of it.

 

You can't go by the TY-04 labels.
Wiring coming out of the amp should be:

TWL+ 10 pin plug pin 8
TWL- 10 pin plug pin 7
TWR+ 10 pin plug pin 2
TWR- 10 pin plug pin 6
WFL+ 12 pin plug pin 5
WFL- 12 pin plug pin 12
WFR+ 12 pin plug pin 4
WFR- 12 pin plug pin 10
FL+ 12 pin plug pin 2
FL- 12 pin plug pin 1
FR+ 12 pin plug pin 9
FR- 12 pin plug pin 3
RL+ 10 pin plug pin 3
RL- 10 pin plug pin 9
RR+ 10 pin plug pin 10
RR- 10 pin plug pin 4

What I did is follow the wiring diagram and depinned and repin the correct labels to the correct speaker.

 

Thanks for this, I was able to figure it out last night with a good old 9v battery. I was able to check polarity for each speaker as well during the process. I'm still a little salty regarding the 50 dollar harness to make this less stressful lol but I'm over it. Hopefully, I can get it completed today after work.

 

Just think of it as $50 towards future dealership and warranty issues. If anything goes wrong with the radio, they’re going to pull the panel and look at the amp as well. If they see stuff has been cut/spliced back there, that’s the first thing they’re going to point to as “causing the issue” (ask me how I know)
So keeping all the wiring un-touched means you can simply plug the speakers into the factory amp and show the dealer that no, your aftermarket accessory did not cause this issue.

 

Yeah not too worried about that since I’ll eventually pull the HU for something more capable. The only thing annoying is the Bluetooth latency. Which is really common on most factory HU with Bluetooth.

kind of nice soldering all the connections outside of the truck, indoors, while I’m watching tv. Lol

 

Also worth $50 lol. I’ve soldered many harnesses behind seats and in dashes and upside down in trunks, and it ain’t no fun. You back bent all out of shape, your leg falling asleep, it’s awful

 

Lol I had my fair share of awkward positions working on the automotive industry.

 

If gutting the entire stock JBL system (sub and amp) to replace with aftermarket sub and amp, is it possible to use the stock wire hardness to tap/splice into for power, ignition/turnon lead, speaker wires, etc? Rather than running all new wire to speaker locations and power wire through the firewall just use the existing hardness that plugged into the stock JBL amp?

Assuming the AmpPro is just for high-quality RCA distribution to the aftermarket amp, sounds like its just plug and play into the stock head unit - but is it compatible for the JBL head unit?

 

The AmpPro is ONLY for the JBL system, so you’re good there. That will go behind the radio and get you 6 pre-outs. Run RCA cables from there to your new amp and boom, perfect quality audio signal.

You can certainly use the factory speaker wiring. Keeps things very clean. I would grab the

$38 PAC APH-TY04 Speaker Connection Harness

PAC APH-TY04 harness to make it even cleaner and easier on yourself.
You WILL still need to run dedicated power to the battery, and an equal gauge ground for your new amp. The JBL power wire is only fused at like 30A which isn’t really enough for any aftermarket amp other than something like the Kicker Key and Alpine PowerPack. It is certainly not enough power for any decent subwoofer setup.

 

Copy. Tacoaudioguy in the link below said you must keep the stock JBL amp if you want to keep the stock JBL head unit/receiver. "You must keep the factory JBL amp in the circuit in order for the factory head unit to function properly." He then goes on to talk about how the volume is not truly controlled by the head unit but rather by the amp. A bit worried if this is the case because I want to scrap the entire stock JBL amp and sub, but retain the factory JBL head unit. Are you saying the AmpPro with

$38 PAC APH-TY04 Speaker Connection Harness

PAC APH-TY04 harness can bypass this dilemma (the JBL amp) without affecting the functions of the head unit?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2020-jbl-amp-wiring-and-booster.642005/

 

The JBL amp does have to remain connected. The wiring can be extended and the amp can be relocated (I’ve seen people do it on the back wall, and down in the cubby under the seat)

 

Yeah, if you want to keep the stock headunit, the factory JBL amp will need to stay. It controls volume and fade.

Sucks for anyone wanting a sunroof and leather. You’re suckered into the JBL Bs sound system.

 

ahh come on! haha...well that basically convinces me to gut the entire system including the headunit. I wanted Apple Carplay away for Google Maps. The 2019 Entune whatever .0 sucks as do the speakers. I'm an audiophile but haven't built a system is years. My trade-in for this Taco had a JL audio system with C5 series x4 I installed in Germany and now I'm kicking myself for not taking those components out!

So obviously without the Entune unit, no JBL amp required. With that said, it appears there are only a select few aftermarket head units that maintain most of the stock features. Features I'd like to keep include USB, AUX, nav/GPS antenna, vehicle dynamics, steering wheel controls, odometer controls, mic, backup camera, and basically the OBDII stuff. For some of this I read I would need the iDatalink Maestro black box to keep the OEM controls.

Some options I see are the Pioneer W4500NEX, W4660NEX, W8400NEX, T9, Alpine ILF-F259, ILX-F309. Please drop me a line if you have other comparable units with the bells and whistles.

So going this route, no need for the AmpPro with PAC harness I assume?

 

Any radio that supports the Maestro will cover most of the factory features though the maestro unit. Simple adapters are needed for USB/AUX/GPS antenna (although GPS antenna is only needed on units with an actual GPS antenna connection. Many radios dont have that, so just know if the radio you choose actually needs it before spending money on it.

Retaining the factory mic is on the difficult side. There’s a thread floating around of a product someone was making for that purpose but i have not looked into it. Many people mount the aftermarket mic in the factory location up in the roof console. I personally always installed them (in the hundred of vehicles I’ve done) up inside the gauge cluster cove (or whatever one wants to call it.) This protects it from road noise, echo, and the walls around it almost seem to amplify your voice when speaking. But ultimately, placement isn’t a deal breaker.

I have the W8400 myself and love it. Screen is amazing, HDMI in, multiPle camera inputs, blah blah blah. Done a ton of the W4500 and they’re great as well. I dont like the look of the Alpine Halos (but obviously that’s just a personal taste)

No need for the AmpPro but I would still recommend the TY04 harness, unless you dont mind cutting and splicing all the factory wiring in a cramped location (or running all new wires to 6 speakers)

 

I agree with you regarding the aesthetics of the Pioneer units. Flush, simple look over the Halo or other units that protrude out.

If a head unit has the capability of wireless Apple Carplay (for Google Maps/Waze), then why would one want a head unit with built-in GPS? I just don't want to spend the extra money like you said if I can get my Nav via an Apple Carplay app.

True, i'll utilize the TY04 harness to keep it organized. However, wiring an aftermarket component tweeter in the dash using the stock wire then connecting it to the crossover (in the front door) might be tricky to fish out. Can I tap into this stock dash wire in the floor panel or side panel as it runs up into the dash?

Any aftermarket mic, I feel, will be better than the factory mic. I literally have to max the volume to hear people (which could just be the crappy stock speakers), and my voice echos on their end. I'll look into this "gauge cluster cove" area but the factory location seems logical and legit. Accessing it, I have not investigated it.

 

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