Proportioning valve and flat bed conversion

Alright guys looking for some input. During my frame salvage and flatbed conversion on my 98 Tacoma I had to strip the back half of my truck along with the gas tank and exhaust. I also had to remove the brake lines to gain access to the frame and the
proportioning valve. It was a rusty mess and in removing it got pretty mangled.

Since the weight of the flatbed will be heavier compared to the factory bed I'm debating whether to complete remove it or install a dial valve. It looks like there's 2 schools of thought and trying to get some input. I need to make some new hard lines and would like to do it right the first time.

Edit. I should have mentioned I'll be replacing the leaf springs with Old Man Emu which will add a 1" lift.

 

Any recommendations on brands?

 

Wilwood.

 

That's what I was looking at. Have you done the install yourself? I've never done any brake line work before.

 

No I have not. Still have the BPV set all the way open at ride height. Overengineered smoldering pile, IYAM. One of these days it's getting ripped out.

Me neither.

 

Buy a double flare flaring tool a nice roll maybe two of the Copper nickle brake line

Practice a few double flares .

It is up to you if you put in a manual valve or not.

I doubt I ever had a LSPV that every worked so with the factory valve and without braked about the same.

Growing up we just got used to driving empty pick up trucks on wet and slippery roads or not

 

Copy that. Any idea what the thread pitch of the couplers are? I know the line is 3/16".

 

ISO flat bed pics

 

M10x1.0 there is a company Federal Hill Trading Company that has all the brake line parts

If you go with a manual valve you will need adapters to the metric size or make lines Metric to SAE fittings

 

Awesome. Ill check them out. Thanks bud!

 

You can follow my project here.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/broken-frame-at-rear-leaf-spring.586331/page-3#post-22759632

 

I've done what you're asking about, @Aray02. I removed all the ABS components and the LSPV (rear proportioning valve). I installed a Wilwood valve by the master cylinder instead. You need a small tubing bender, a cutter and a double flare tool. NOT a single flare tool, your brake lines will leak and you will die! I reused the metric fittings from the LSPV brake line that's no longer used. That line was like 4 feet long so there was plenty of material for practicing double flares.

My local NAPA didn't sell individual SAE fittings but these pre-made lines come with two. I needed a straight section anyway so it worked out well.


Wilwood manual proportioning valve installed. Make sure it's turned all the way out when you bleed the lines.


Now I just have a single rear brake line with an extended diff breather and e-locker harness all routed together.

 

I have never had success trying to double flare used brake line.

Might be the climate or the exposure to winter chemicals everyone cracked .

 

I used this style tool and it was pretty much idiot-proof.

$51 Titan 51535 3/16" Double Flaring Tool

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BSS2XM18M2GYRHTVR3XA

 

Good luck finding brake fittings. For some reason american auto parts stores wont stock metric brake parts, at least around here. Go to junk yards and pull fittings off any toyota you can find if you are going to be building brake lines instead of using adapters. Evrey threaded fitting is a chance to leak now or in the future.

I tried to install a manual prop valve from wilwood and the damn thing leaked like a sieve no matter what I did. I ended up yanking that POS out and sold it (told the person it leaked) and stuck with the LSPV after my fj80 rear axle swap. Have had zero complaints and can lock the brakes up loaded.

If you do get wilwood prop valve make sure its black. The other types have a known mfr defect. I worked at a company that had them in 200+ pieces of industrial equipment and there was a recall on them after a majority of then failed. The black ones solved the problem. My team was in charge of coordinating recall projects and tracking failures.

 

I had none of those issues.

 

When it comes to Idiots I am most often first in line from the time I slipped out of the Doctors hands

I have had many numerous Flaring Tools in the last 50 years never one good double flare on old exposed brake line .

I can accept being a idiot

 

I did not mean to insinuate that, @Wyoming09. My apologies. I had rented the other style tool and I couldn't make a decent flare, either. My next door neighbor who's been a gearhead longer than I've been alive, steered me toward the good flaring tool. I was the one who needed it idiot-proof.

 

How long have you been running that setup? Any issues? Any chance you can send more detailed pictures of the Wilwood valve setup?