2014 TRD Sport Tacoma Access Cab v6 6-speed

Thanks man! This is going to be the workhorse of the fleet heh heh so I'm not too concerned about the paint. I do need to touch up 2 spots on the driver door area where it chipped and I can see a tiny spot of rust. Also, I discovered that a rag soaked in motor oil is awesome for wiping down the plastic bits of the truck hahahaha.

WD-40 I used to lubricate my wire wheel. Those bed bolts are galvanized. If I keep an eye on them, should be fine. I also used it to try and remove the adhesive but that didn't work.

Yes, I understand that you need to paint if you get down to bare metal. I fixed my wife's '06 Mini that had rust bubbling through the taillight section. Would have cost me thousands around these parts because it was rusting from the inside out and the only way most shops would fix it would be to cut out the entire quarter panel and weld in a new one. I cut out a bunch of the really rusted out metal, then sanded/wire wheeled down to bare metal on the inside and outside, sprayed rust reformer, let it dry and do its thing, then built up the gap with long stranded bondo, finished with the short strand, sanded, primed, painted, clear coated and it looks amazing now.

Regarding the leds, all I know is I couldn't see anything with the stock halogens in there. The leds I got (cougar motor) worked really, really well in my '06 Mini that came with halogens as well as in my '12 Sienna.

Here's a pic of the new leds. Looks pretty darn clear to me.


And here's the rust on my wife's mini:



And here's what it looked like when I sanded it and cut out a piece with a dremmel:



Here it is after rust reformer and the mesh support for the bondo rebuild:



Bondo:



And just before priming testing the fit of the taillamp:



After sanding and primer:



A close up:



3m rubberized undercoating inside the taillamp well as extra insurance:



Hope I passed the audition.

 

Putting on clearcoat

 

I changed the rear diff, front diff, and transfer case oils on Sat.

Rear diff looked ok but smelled bad. Looks like it was changed at least once before.

Transfer case looked quite brown and looked like it had never been changed.

And the front diff was blackish greyish and looked terrible.

Used Mobil 1 75W-90 LS for all three and got the washer/gasket kit on Amazon.

Going to use Redline MT-90 for the 6-speed tranny fluid. Fluid should arrive tomorrow.

Here's a video of the rear diff fluid:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c0qtnycjc26237u/2020-03-07 13.45.03.mp4?dl=0

I also cleaned up the battery terminals. The positive was way corroded. Hit it with the wire brush and wire wheel, sprayed some terminal spray on it, good to go!



Negative side:



All cleaned up:

 

Solid purchase. Looks like you'll be taking good care of it as well!

 

Where did you get the Krown from?

 

Direct from their website. I bought the case for like $85 shipped. Here's the direct link.

KROWN ANTI RUST AEROSOL SPRAY CAN

 

Thanks man I try! I do take care of my cars well but sometimes you have a brain fart.

I have a 24" snowblower from 2006......and I never changed the oil in it because I used it what 3-7 times a year.......and then last year I finally decided it was time. Man, the oil was thin! I changed the oil twice, changed the drive belt, the auger belt, the tensioner, replaced the shave bar, replaced all the bolts, bought new ginormous skid shoes to replace the crap it came with, sanded all the rust off of it, painted it, lubed the wheels, lubed the augers, replaced the cotter pins, adjusted the tension on the throttle........and to cap it off, I even modded it! I cut some pieces of side wall out of a junk tire, drilled some holes in it, lined it up on the 3 auger blades, and sandwiched it with stainless hardware and some 1/8" flat bar to seal the gap between the auger housing and the blades. The problem with 2-stage snowblowers is always the wet slushy stuff that will bog it down because it can't throw it out the chute because of the gap. I even chamfered the edges of the rubber to make it a nice tight fit but easy to spin!

 

Broken skid shoes. Trash!


New skid shoes!



Here's the tire mod for the auger blades

 

Nice purchase! For the P1604 code, I've found those are often set by aftermarket remote starts. If you have one then that code will likely be in the computer for the long term but it's not a big deal and doesn't throw the MIL on.

 

Nice truck, I got my 07 last year, love it. I have a local Krown dealer treat my vehicles, he has a lift and does under carriage, under hood, inside doors for $130.

 

Thanks man! I'm pretty sure I don't have an autostart. I tried the lock-the-car-then-hit-the-lock-button-three-times and it did nothing. Also, do they install autostarts on manual transmissions? What happens if you leave it in 1st gear on a hill??

Thanks man! Yeah, I wish they had a location closer. Closest is 177 miles away, over a 3 hour drive. Not worth it to drive all the way up there when I can do it myself ableit not as thorough for $85.

Got my stereo coming today, nerf bars coming by the weekend. Yes sir. And here's a snap of me getting some wood on Saturday! Woot! That's my neighbor. School right around the corner from us cut down some red oak and just left it there. I got permission to take as much as I want on their entire property. We left the rotted wood there and took all the good logs.

Also for those interested did some basic math and the 6' cab filled up with wood stacked tightly works out to just under 40% of a full 4' x 4' x 8' cord (128 cubic ft). Anyone who sells you a cord of wood and shows up in a pickup truck without a trailer is robbing you.

 

Changed the tranny oil today. Put in Redline MT-90. Man, the drain plug magnet was full of crud. Hm.

1st to 2nd gear shifting is now much better and all the gears feel amazing.

Last night, I installed the Sony XAX-AX5000 stereo. Pro tip: get yourself one of those HarborFreight led headlamps for $9.99 on sale......and don't wait until the last 30 minutes to use them. Hahahaha.

I got the Crux adapter for the steering wheel controls as well as to retain the stock backup camera.

Now wouldn't you know that the damn guy who made the harness for the crux must have been drunk on a Friday afternoon because he swapped the brown and white wires that power the camera! Thank God I had a multimeter because that's how we figure out why I was getting "No Video Signal" when putting it in reverse.

Also, the Crux adapter instructions were completely screwy. The dip switches for ON and OFF............are REVERSED AS WELL. WADUHECK. So instead of UP/DOWN/UP/DOWN it turned out to be DOWN/UP/DOWN/UP.

Anyways, I'm just glad I got her in there........the only issue so far is that Textra (my texting app on my Note 9 running 8.1 rooted) doesn't show up at all as an app. Gonna have to do some research.

Here's the tranny drain plug magnet with crud:



Here's the crux adapter which I crossed brown and white......and got the reverse camera working.



Spaghetti anyone??



Sony XAV-AX5000 installed.



Today I went and tackled that HUGE load of free pine on the side of the road about 10 minutes away from my house.

Pine is so unbelievably light compared to oak holy crap. Smelled amazing. I used my Makita cordless chainsaw to buck up some of the smaller limbs to size and used a wedge and a sledge to split the HUGE rounds (~30"+) into pieces I could lift up into the truck bed. Picked up a nice safety vest from Grainger and got to work!



First load dumped at my driveway.



That's a 32oz gatorade for reference. That was a big round.



Second load in the truck.



Two loads on the driveway.



Look how beautiful this pine split! Smelled amazing as well.

 

Bought a grease gun, the lock 'n lube tip, and a box of Red & Tacky #2. Greased up all the transaxle zerk fittings and was suprised to see old grease coming out. The front most zerk fitting was too tight for the lock 'n lube so I just put the stock tip that came with the gun.

First time using a grease gun so I was impressed that it didn't leak and I had no issues at all. Woot!

This is the grease gun I got.

$20 Grease Gun - Heavy Duty Professional Pistol Grip Grease Gun 6000 PSI with Flex Hose

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G51W1VN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The old grease will come out because it is displaced by the new grease, Perfectly normal. It's when no grease - or water - comes out that you have to worry.

 

Yeah, I did my homework. I was saying I was surprised it wasn't bone dry!

 

Well, I painted my Go Rhino Dominator D2 steps with U-Pol Raptor and used the traction additive on the last coat. Had my 12-year old daughter help me hold it up and I must say it does help a lot with getting the kids, especially the 10 and 7 year olds, into truck easier. And it looks cool.

Before:



After:



To anyone doing this particular set of steps attach the middle bracket to the bars first....that made it way easier on the passenger side instead of doing the front and rear brackets first.

Also for some reason they included (12) 5/16 lock washers but they are not be used on the brackets attached to the truck. Otherwise, pretty darn straightforward installation.

 

Well yesterday I took out the passenger headlight. Had about a cup of water in there. Did some research and learned about the cheap ass seal they use in between the lens and the housing of most headlights. What crap. Since I didn't feel like going out for special silicone I just used some silicone I already had. Just went around the entire perimeter and made sure to put it a bit heavy on the top part of the housing.

One tip for removing the headlight once you get the 3 bolts out - rotate it 90 degrees instead of trying to take it out horizontally. Comes right now. Putting it in was super easy. Also I was able to get that 3rd 10mm bolt behind the bumper cover by just peeling back the wheel well liner and using a socket. Initially tried using a wrench but the socket worked way better.

 

And I washed and waxed the truck for the first time too. Yee haw.

 

Aftermarket headlights or OEM?

 

This is great work. My hat is off to you