Clutch problems

How goes it!? New to the forum but long time lurker and these forums have helped me tremendously over the years. First off truck is a 2010 4.0 TRD 6-speed (obviously clutch problem).Couple days ago clutch pedal started acting up. Go to push it in and no pressure first half than clutch engages. Coming out the clutch pedal sticks about half way on the release than springs back out but stays stuck sometimes. Assuming master or slave cylinder? Going to replace both tomorrow see if that works. Thoughts anyone with same problem?

 

this happened to me a while back, ended up being the clutch master cylinder..

 

That master is a bastard. I wish you luck.

I usually change the clutch cylinders in pairs, if one fails the other typically is close.

 

Thanks for the replies fellas. On my way to the dealership to get parts now. Master does look like a b#*ch to get at.

 

i would ditch that slave cyl altogether as well !!

 

Ok. For those who already did it. I got my old clutch master cylinder out but been fighting to get the new one in. Replacing because it was leaking. I think one I get the big black hose on, I should be ok from there

 

If the fitting is flared out like this, you’ll never get it started. The proper fix is to buy a new hard line from Toyota.

 

I've had that happen before. At the time, it was my only daily driver. So I spent a great deal of time with a file to flattern out the mushrooming and got it to seal.

For todays task, I figured since I first loosened the flare nut at the bottom, then unbolted the clutch master cylinder, then disconnected the big black hose up top..., I'd go in reverse order to reassemble. The clutch start switch was in the way of one of the bolts so it had to come out. I spent a good hout trying to get the black hose back on. Finally tried getting the 2 bolts back in first, then with more cussing & cursing Toyota, I managed to get the hose on, then the spring clamp in place. What seemed to help was to position the spring clamp back just far enough so the hose could be pushed all the way on to the barb. I was able to grab the clamp and push on it to assist getting the hose on. Having the clamp positioned so it could be grabbed, opened, and put into its correct place would also be helpful, I didn't do that so I had to move it first. I used my angled pliers to open and move it to the right where it needs to be. The rest of the install was gravy. 12mm socket for the 2 bolts, 10mm flare nut wrench for the hydraulic line. I did pull the plastic trim off to the left of the clutch pedal. Not that it helped much. I did notice the master cylinder coming out was plastic, the new one cast aluminum or pot metal. The fitting for the black hose was slightly cocked upwards compared to the old one went straight out to the left. Since I had it out, I tested the clutch start switch, it failed so I'll need to replace it.

Of the multiple pliers I pulled out, the 2 on the left were the most helpful.

 

I meant the 2 on the left of the picture

 

I already did the adm mod. It made a bit of difference but still didn’t feel quite right. I’m guessing my clutch master cylinder had been bypassing when I got the truck last year and may have been leaking but didn’t notice. Now with a new one, wow what a difference. Quicker shifts are done without grinding and I can get in first without having to come to a complete stop. Especially third and fifth would want to grind unless I paused before pushing it in. I have a hurst core ss and some redline gear oil to go in but ran out of time today

 

I unmounted the fuse box panel and unplugged as many things as I could to move them out the way so i could reach in there with my left hand and get that brake line thread started. Im must have taken me a couple hours trying to get that thing to align... one thing for sure, you have to be holding your mouth just right to get it

 

I was lucky with the hard line, putting in the 2 bolts loose, I was able to move the new mc to assist alignment, and the pipe didn’t bend when I removed it. I did need mouth position to get the black hose on. Mouth all the way open, tongue all the way out and slightly to the right worked for me.

 

This is how my fitting is looking. Replacing the line looks like a pain, guess I’ll try filing it down