6' x 10' utility trailer build.

Checking the final board width. I want this gap to be somewhat uniform. I have to rip the last board to fit and it's a lot easier if the measurements are close to the same the full lenght of the trailer.

 

Chalk lines to show where the cross members are. Note I never drive the 1/4" self tapping torx head screws into the 2 x 2 tube tongue support cross member. This tube has the trailer light wires going to each side of the trailer frame. It's too easy to cut the wires with the drill bit.

 

My wife installs the deck and sides. (I'm drinking a beer and taking pictures).

Her record is 14 trailers on 1 drill bit. I think it was the Dewalt brand from Lowe's. There is roughly 140 screws per trailer. She wanted to put that drill bit in a frame.

 

I like to solder the wires for the tail lights together then throw on a wire nut. I've never had a failure using this method. It's quick and its reliable.

 

Whats your favorite type of lumber for this?


Great thread!

 

It's a utility trailer. I buy whatever is on sale. I just try to find lumber that has the least amount of big knots in it.

Whatever 5/4" x 6" treated that you have access to works fine. Obviously you can buy "select" grade lumber, but I really don't think you gain much going that route.

 

Lights installed. Trailer is done.

 

I forget to mention the fender supports.

You will notice the piece of band iron running from the top rail to the top of the fender. This adds a large amount of support for the sheet metal fenders and it keeps people from sitting on it and bending the fenders. I make them strong enough to stay there but not strong enough for a person to use as a seat.

 

Extra fabrication squares I make. These work just as well for carpentry/cabinet making as well as for metal fabrication.

This concludes my build thread. I welcome all questions.

 

Great write up!! How much does it weigh and how much do you sell them for?

 

This is interesting to me - I would think you'd get corrosion up in the wire nuts. That said, its probably pretty easy to rinse out. Hmmm

 

They weigh about 850 lbs. Give or take depending how wet the lumber is.

That trailer sells for $1800. A little less if a person orders it and puts money down. If I build it and have to play the low ballers game, I don't move as much on the price.

 

Those are wire nuts that have a hardened plastic thread. My car hauler is 15 years old and all the lights are functional. I used this exact method.

 

Oooh. That makes more sense. Nice.

 

Very nice!
On the latch, it looks like the ramp has the extra tang sticking up, which would be easy trip on it or run over it (cutting a tire or bending it). Why wouldn't you have the extra long tangs on the rail, so the ramp's tang doesn't extend up?

 

I've done it that way in the past. I only needed to have that tab jab into my forearm one time to realize I didn't like it that way.

I've used store bought latches as well, but I didn't think they were any stronger or easier to use. The biggest expense us the cost of the pins going my route.

Anyone building their own trailer gate is free to use what they want. I like my cheap and easy style.

I guess there really is no right or wrong answer.

 

Great thread @koditten . Thanks for showing your build process and pics!

Did you list the payload capacity?

 

I did not. Thanks for reminding me.

The axle is rated at 3500 lbs. Subtract 600 lbs for the weight of the trailer.

2900 lbs is what it can legally carry.

I won't list how much weight I've actually had on one of these trailers. I'll just say it's more than 3k.