TRD supercharger drivers side spark plug change WITHOUT pulling SC

The toyota reflash is not consistent one truck to another.... Without a wideband, ur hoping things are working right, yet ur description of the plugs might (without pics, 1 can't be sure) be running lean.

I dont know about these stock fuel pumps anymore... I took Toyotas word that it would work fine, but at higher rpm the truck seemed to pull nice and linear after a walbro 255lph hp pump install.
Before sometimes it felt like things kinda hit a wall.....it still pulled but not the same as it does with the upgraded filter.

 

Got any info on hooking up a wideband, rather curious now.

Nevermind, I did a search. Another thing to add to my list of wants...

 

aem wideband on amazon

Install is straight forward with instructions honestly..... Have a shop weld a bung, any aftermarket exhaust components already? Like headers or y pipe?

Then there's some wiring to run and connect.

Probably good instructions on xru

http://www.xr-underground.com/

Some mount the 02 sensor in the y pipe... Others headers.

Brb gotta call cops,

 

http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49881&highlight=wideband+install

http://www.xr-underground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49881&highlight=wideband+install

 

Thanks, I have a rerouted crossover for skid plate clearance. Guess it's time for another trip to an exhaust shop. Might as well order the A-pillar mount and throw in a boost gauge as well.

 

Do a search on the lotek a pillar pod and the cravenspeed gauge pod for the steering wheel

The lotek a pillar pod is a piece of shit out of the box... After u do some cutting, sanding and such it works great. I'm running it because the gaugepod that sits on the steering wheel area made by craven would block some items like blinkers and possibly others... I won't even run my scangauge on the steering wheel column because it blocked too much and Thats unacceptable to me.
Besides that, its a piece of cake for me to hide wiring in the a pillar pod and it does not block my vision out the window any more than the stock a pillar.

I'd look on xru for boost gauge ideas as well.

I'm running the aem wideband I linked to on Amazon and a mechanical autometer boost gauge. Pics in my build (linked in my signature in red).

 

I hope bringing this thread back from almost 5 years doesn't start a giant . If it does goes easy people!

I book marked this great write up years ago for when I would need to change plugs. That day is here. I really didn't want to pull the s/c so I'm hoping this works for me, thanks for the write up @CtTaco!!!!

My plugs have just over 40k mi, plugs were installed with the s/c. The pic is the passenger side rear cyl plug on the left vs a new plug (both are

$9 Denso IKH22 Iridium Power Spark Plug, (Pack of 1)

Denso IKH22). You can see the ground electrode is significantly eaten away, the original gap of .032" is no longer, not sure what it is now since its tough to measure with the electrode eaten away like that. I found conflicting info on when to change the plugs, but if the drivers side is worse that this pass side then 40k mi was too long of a change interval for my case. I use my truck as a daily driver, pulling a drift boat or a small utv/snow machine trailer sometimes, no racing/track days.

I will post a pic of the drivers side plugs tomorrow if anyone is interested.

 

I added a few notes and pics to what @CtTaco already wrote up and included that combined with his write-up below, all credit goes to @CtTaco for this. I don't know if that's the right way to do it but it's nice to have all in one place. I also added a pic of the used plugs, for reference they were just over 40k of mostly daily driving and weekend small craft towing (drift boat or snow machine or utv). Also, I know my engine bay is dirty, I'm probably not gonna clean it up.

Obligatory warnings:
1 - I'm not a professional, this is what worked for me, proceed at your own risk.
2 - I'm not responsible for anything that goes wrong if you follow these steps, see warning #1.
3 - When it comes to spark plugs, go easy, if it's not tightening easy at first, back out and try again, you do not want to crossthread!

Here's a parts list of what I used:
-20" flexible magnetic pickup tool
-Denso IKH22 5345 spark plugs .032" gap
-3/8" drive torque wrench
-3/8" socket wrench
-3/8" extensions in various lengths totaling ~20" when all put together
-3/8" swivel
-10mm, 12mm sockets
-3/8" drive spark plug socket (5/8")
-anti-seize for new plugs
-plug gap measuring tool
-phillips screwdriver
-safety glasses
-headlamp
-tape
-sharpie


***Remove positive battery cable before starting and tuck out of the way so it doesn't slip back***


Step 1:
"Start by removing the two breather hoses on the side of the intake tube of the supercharger. On my truck, one of these had a clamp, and the other did not. Make sure you pay attention to which hose was attached to which port."
-#1 & #2 in pic above:

Step 2:
"Next, remove the clamp on the front hose of the valve that sits above the front coil pack. It looks like a small cylinder with a hose coming out either end."
-#4 in pic above

"Once that hose is removed, you can bring the valve back around the other hoses (which I believe are fuel lines, there are two of these attached to hardlines coming up the driver side fender on the inside. I did not remove them, I would not recommend removing them as fuel will most likely leak out.) Move the valve and its attached hose down out-of-the-way."

Step 3:
"Next, remove the bracket holding the hose that's attached to the value just removed from the oil fill tube. This bracket was attached with the 10 mm nut on my vehicle."
-#3 in the pic above

"Once you remove the nut, you can lift the bracket up and off of the stud, bring it forward enough to allow you to release the clip on the coil pack for the first cylinder."


Step 4: (pic above)
I had to move the intercooler reservoir, it was in the way of getting to the s/c support brace bolts. To do this I removed the two 10mm bolts on the reservoir support bracket, marked #7. I also removed the clamp holding the intercooler hoses at the top rear of the s/c, the clamp is held in place by a 10mm bolt marked #8.



Step 5:
"Next, remove the upper and lower bolts of the brace supporting the supercharger and remove that black brace. The brace I am referring to is in between the second and third coil pack."
-#5 & #6 --12mm socket
-#5 bolt is easy to get to going through the wheel well, see pic. I used 11" of extensions on and a swivel. (Top pic above)
-#6 bolt was easy for me to get to after moving the intercooler reservoir, I used a 5.5" extension to reach the bolt. (Bottom pic above)

Step 6:
"There is another breather hose attached to the bottom of the intake tube of the supercharger, which goes over to the intake manifold area. You need to remove this hose as well in order to access the third coil pack on the drivers. They are simple squeeze clamps you can use your hands to loosen and then slide the hose off of the ports."
-I didn't remove this hose, I only disconnected the end of this hose that was attached to the bottom of the intake tube on the s/c then tucked it out of the way.


Step 7:
"Once you have removed the hoses and the bracket, you should be able to push the fuel line hoses down and out-of-the-way in order to access the 10 mm bolts holding the coil packs on."
-TIP: remove the harness connections to the coil packs before removing the 10mm bolts holding the coil pack down.

-Rear coil pack:
-I had a lot of difficulty reaching the 10mm for the rear coil pack. I used 13" of extensions and a swivel on the end connected to a 10mm socket.

-Front and mid coil pack 10 mm bolts are easy to access with extensions.

Step 8:
"With the bolts removed, you will have enough room to lift the coil pack up and out of the spark plug hole. It's a little tight, but there is just enough room to slide them out against the bottom edge of the supercharger."

Step 9:
"Plugs in my truck on the driver side or really well stuck in there. The next issue you will come across, is that there is not enough room to move the ratchet handle when you are inside that area working. I use the snap on ratchet to do this because the gearing is much smaller and the more precise inside the rachet head, and when you move the ratchet very slightly you move it more clicks than you would with something like a serious rachet which has much larger detents in the ratchet mechanism. On the very first plug I used my 1/2" drive spark plug socket, 1/2" to 3/8" inch adapter, a 3 inch 3/8 drive extension a swivel, and a foot-long extension to the ratchet up beside the supercharger in order to get enough torque to break the spark plug loose as there was not enough room to move the ratchet inside. Once you cracked the spark plug loose, I removed the swivel, and the foot-long extension and used the short 3/8 inch swivel ratchet I had to remove the plug. Once the plug is completely loose, remove the ratchet and remove the extension and the socket and the plug as one."
-Front cylinder:
-I used an 8.5" extension to a swivel to two 3" extensions to the plug socket to the plug. The plugs wouldn't come out connected to the spark plug socket so I used my flexible magnetic pickup tool to retrieve the plug.

"On the middle cylinder, I was able to use the standard size ratchet underneath the supercharger with two 3/8" extensions as there was just enough room to move the ratchet handle to break the plug loose. As before, once the spark plug has been broken loose, you can use the single 3" extension and the small swivel ratchet to remove the spark plug from the cylinder head. Once it is loose remove the ratchet from the extension, and remove the extension socket and spark plug as one."
-Middle cylinder:
-I used 11" of extensions connected to a swivel connected to two 3" extensions connected to the plug socket. Used magnetic tool to retrieve spark plug.

"The third and the farthest back cylinder was one of the most difficult to get the coil pack out, but it will just fit out without removing the supercharger. As with the other two breakfasts fuck plug loose with 23 inch extensions and the standard size ratchet, then use a single 3 inch extension and the small swivel ratchet to fully loosen the spark plug, then remove the smaller ratchet, and remove the spark plug socket and 3 inch extension as one."
-Rear cylinder:
-I used 17" of extensions to the swivel to two 3" extensions to the plug socket. Retrieved plug with magnetic tool.

Step 10:
"Be sure you use anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs, I was able to spin them in by hand because I used the 1/2" adapter and the single 3/8" 3 inch extension. I did this because when the spark plug is screwed all the way in you still have about three quarters of an inch of socket extension above the valve cover in order to turn it by hand."
--Applied anti-seize on plugs and torqued to 14 ft/lbs.

Step 11:
"Once you have the plugs changed, install the hoses and brackets in the reverse order of removal. Hopefully this helps out some people who are having difficulty in this area. If you have any questions feel free to PM me."

Passenger Side Plug change is pretty straight-forward. Remove the air cleaner scoop to access the coil packs.

Here's a pic of the used plugs. The drivers side were worse off than pass side. I have an afr gauge that I will watch and see if I get any different numbers.

 

Just changed my plugs. The furthest back plug was a rather large pain in the ass. I had to make quite the contraption from extensions and swivels. To members who say it isn’t that bad, I respectfully disagree . Thank you for these helpful instructions though! I found my electric ratchet came in handy a good amount.

 

finally tackled this project over the weekend... didn't remove the S/C. definitely tight spaces on the driver side. above walkthrough is pretty much on point. with 2 u-joints, you can get access to the plugs for removal/install in the gap of the S/C from above. this lessened the angle on the joints.

a few notes:
the 10mm on the rear pack can be accessed with a wrench. ratchetting wrench is ideal for that.
older 2nd gens (i have an '06) has a different brake setup and location for the coolant reservoir, so step 4 was not needed for my setup
when using joints and a torque wrench, the torque reading is not what is actually being applied to the plug. 12 ftlbs at the wrench is including resistence within the joints. the big thing you want is to make sure that crush gasket on the plug is being squished and sealed.

i did: plug socket, 3" 3/8" extension, 3/8" joint, 3/8" to 1/2" adapter, 1/2" joint, 10" 1/2" extension

 

Did my plugs this morning and was anticipating 2-4 hr work, got all 6 done in 45 min while taking my time. The worst hiccup I had was detaching the front drivers coil harness, which wasn't much of a deal.


These are ~30k miles

 

Surprised so many people are not removing the charger. I can see the appeal, but it takes about 45 minutes to get the charger off and it not as stressful as fighting with crap to get the plugs out.

 

I just did spark plugs for a TW member, 4.0L SC. Did not remove the supercharger. Did remove a bracket. Easy with a couple extensions and a swivel.

I found it so easy, that I highly recommend NOT removing the supercharger.

 

Hey my brother thank you ever so much for this information. I was fearing that I would have to move the supercharger off my 2010 Tacoma. Listing the tools that you used is a great help to .should make my job a lot easier.

 

CT taco I have completed my spark plug change cycle today. On a 2010 Toyota Tacoma with a supercharger. Without your input this task would have been virtually impossible. I greatly thank you for your input ,but I might add and have to say I would prefer to have three root canals. On my teeth to ever have to perform this task again. it took me about 4 hours to replace the driver side.but without your input it would have took a lot more. Dropping three bolts and finding them with a magnet stick, not to mention taking a chunk of flesh out of my hand. Would somehow not seem to make this task complete. Once more I greatly think you for implementing the tools that you used. And how you use them.had it not been for your input of this information. I would have more then likely. Busted every windshield out of this truck and set it a flame. I went with a high mileage spark plug. By doing this I also added anti seize to the threads of each spark plugs.. cleaning my K&N air filter
h a recharger kit also has bring this truck alive like she should be. Once more bro brother I thank you. May the powers that be , be with you always
.

 

I finally changed my plugs today. I have been having a rough idle condition for awhile now. I chose this method and had zero issues getting the job done. This was my setup for changing the driverside plugs. I used a spark plug socket, 1" extension, swivel, 3" extension, 3/8 drive stubby flex head rachet.

My old plugs had roughly 30k on them and are completely shot. I replaced them with the ruthieums.
Test drive will be tomorrow.

Passenger side


Driver side


Extreme close up...just because

 

Completed my plug change using a high mileage spark plug. 4 hours one lobotomy and three root canals later. The job is finally complete. To let you know she is running like a top. Better than the day I bought her. I may add if you use long-term spark plugs. You may want to use anti-seize to the plugs themselves. Because at 100,000 miles or Plus you would have wished you had. By following CT tacos Pacific, instructions this job would not have been incomplete. In between plugs and pulling coil packs you might want to spray with WD-40 or PB blaster and let them soak for a while. Just to get them out a little easier. A lot of foul language and busted knuckles are required to complete this task. My next job is to do the upper and lower control arms bushings. CT taco if you have any input on this it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Awesome job man!

My only note is that I would advise against waiting 100k to change your plugs being boosted. I would cut that in half, if not even more to like 30k intervals. Just my thoughts...

 

Test drive went as expected, idle was smooth and the butt dyno feels like I've been missing a few hrsprs.

 

I finally got this done. The write up was a big help but if I had known how hard it was, I might not have started. Passenger's side took about 30 minutes. Driver's side was probably around 6 hours all in. The worst sticking point was getting the spark plug socket back out after installing the rear plug. Here's what came out (I think I waited too long).