Uh oh...

I think the drivers side one will, but the passenger side one definitely won’t. The 12-15 passenger side has mounts for the air valves.

 

Tacomaworld is pretty helpful. What is your location?

 

Your best bet is to have a good welder weld a washer on the broken bolt and grab that washer with a pair of plyers and turn it out.

 

im in northern Cali

 

Ok I’ve been through the ringer with this same issue. If that’s the drivers side rear coil, the same thing happened to me. I had work done by a friend about 60k miles ago. Haven’t had to do much since then inside the engine bay, oil changes are easy and don’t require much movement around the engine so it’s been overlooked. I just replaced spark plugs at 120k miles and I pulled the plugs only to find that the drivers side rear plug bolt head had snapped off when he did the work and he never told me. It actually was just the head of the bolt that broke because the bolt was still protruding enough for the coil pack not to move as much. I’ve tried left hand drill bits, I’ve tried 2 different screw extractors, because I have so much bolt to grab on to I’ve tried vice grips, nothing will move it. My next idea is to torch the mounting point a little without starting a fire near the rails and see if I can vice grip it out again.

 

if you need help, post in the Northern California forum. I bet there’s someone near you that wouldn’t mind giving you a hand.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/forums/northern-california.42/

 

First, don’t put a big booger of silicone on it to do the job of a fastener.

Second, look at the situation. Can you get a drill in there and not have the drill chuck chew up stuff that’s close, like that hose?

If you’re certain you cross threaded it, it’ll not want to spin out easily. Half the battle on the tiny ones is to drill it as close to centered as possible.

If it’s something you’ve never done before, you should get help. Even though it’s not rocket science, having done a few before is helpful. If you lived closer I’d happily come over and do it in exchange for a jail house bologna sandwich. I’ll look for some instructions and post it if I can find it

 

$41 Irwin 11119 Irwin Tools IRWIN Screw Extractor/Drill Bit Set, 10-Piece (11119)

Irwin 11119 kit comes with 5 extractors and 5 reverse drill bits.

Extracting broken fasteners does take some patience and skill. Sometimes just using an automatic center punch will remove it by punching it close to the edge angling to unscrew it with every click. If you have to drill it, always use a reverse bit so if the bit catches, it will back out instead of tightening. Sometimes you can drill in about a quarter inch, then angle the drill slightly so it will grab the edge of the hole and the broken fastener will back out. Always center punch the broken bolt to be removed so if you end up having to completely drill it out and retap the hole, you end up with the repaired hole pretty much in the same spot. Once you drill it big enough and close to the threads, you can sometimes use a pick or knife to collapse the remaining bolt in and then pull it out with pliers. If it's severely rusted in, use a GOOD penetrant. If it's beyond severely rusted in, allow the penetrant to sit, even overnight helps. Heating up the part, not the fastener (metal expands when heated), in conjunction with penetrant or wax sometimes helps but remember what heat does (destroys gaskets, melts rubber hoses, burns human flesh, causes gas to explode...). If you drill it with the first pilot hole, you can spray penetrant through the hole with the little spray straw. If there's a little bit of broken off bolt sticking out, you can tap it with a hammer to break the rust loose, then sometimes use vice grips to grab and unscrew it.

It's good to get the 53535 extractor set and 30520 drill set so you have extra pieces on hand for when drill bits and extractors break, wear out, or get lost. It never fails, the one you're missing is the one you need. 53635 Straight flute type work good to keep the fastener from expanding in the hole.

$33 Lisle 70500 Tap Socket Set

Lisle 70500 Tap Socket Set makes it MUCH easier to use extractors and taps. HeliCoil 80-450 or similar one piece drill and grab type work better if you drill a hole first. Craftsman Damaged Bolt/Nut Remover Set 52166 work good if there is enough sticking out. Taps or thread chasers are sometimes needed to make new threads or repair existing ones. If you don't have them, a bolt with a groove or two ground or filed into it will work (to clean up threads, not to make new ones). Clean up the edges of the groove so it doesn't gall the threads.

Another trick is once you have the extractor in the hole you've drilled in the broken bolt, put some unscrewing tension on it, then use your auto center punch to punch it close to the edge angling to unscrew it with every click. The combination of tension and clicking can help to break the fastener free if badly rusted in or if someone put it in with locktite. If red locktite threadlocker was used you will have to use heat to burn it off.

As you can see, there's alot of sometimes and maybes. Patience, experience, and eventually skill all help. Each situation requires a different approach.

Look for multi spline extractors, also made by Irwin. I've found them to perform much better than these spiral flute extractors. Now, the only reason I would use the spirals is because the reverse drill bits are in the same case. If the fastener is being difficult, I'll reach for the multi splines.

They also sell a kit that I think comes with both types of extractors, more reverse drill bits, and I think taps too.

 

Just curious to know why putting a booger of silicone isn’t a good idea? I’d really like to repair it the right way but I’m afraid i don’t have the skills necessary to get the broken part out. It’s really cross threaded in there good, so I don’t think it will come out easily...if it comes out at all. Like I said, the truck runs good, just seems like I need to figure out a way to secure it down a little better but yet be able to remove it in the future. I’ve also looked everywhere for another valve cover and can’t find one anywhere. Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it.

 

where in Northern California are you?

 

In Lake County, about 2.5 hours north of San Francisco.

 

Oh, nvm then. You’re too far away. As others have said, I’d find a person who’s done this before to do it for you. Too many variables and a little mistake can really dent your wallet. Post in the NorCal section. You’ll probably have luck there with someone close to you.

 

I will post there. However, as you are probably aware, we are in a shelter in place and I literally haven’t left my property in three weeks. Also, no one is coming to my house right now. I think I’m going to give it a try and worst case I’ll bring it to mechanic when this virus crap is over. Thanks for your help, really appreciate it. I would just replace the valve cover but I can’t find one anywhere.

 

Get on YouTube. Figure out how to use an easy out. I‘ve used both. Reverse drill bit is good for something not cross threaded.

get an easy out. Drill the bolt, tap that bitch in and get it to thread a bit and GO SLOW!! Not a fun job and you will probably have to do it more than once.

then, when done, chase the thread to clean it out

 

Worst comes to worst just replace the damn valve cover and get it over with.

You need to get someone who knows what they are doing in there if you hope to salvage the threads. Considering you cross threaded #6 cylinder I would pull the intake off because you just made things that much more difficult on yourself by cross threading the bolt.

 

thank you. I just purchased all the tools needed and I’m going to give it a try. The bolt is cross threaded but if I can just get it out enough to screw another shorter bolt in, even if it’s cross threaded...I think it will suffice. Appreciate the advice.

 

i would gladly replace the valve cover...if I could find one. Thanks for the advice though, appreciate it.

 

you won’t need to. Tap, twist a little, tap again, twist.

my first broken bolt was an 84 mustang. Bolt broke off in the head. Lots of easy out WD 40c whatever, and just treat it like a lady. It’ll come out. Chase it and you will be right as the mail

 

Oh!!!! Vice grips!! You get it out enough to get them on it, game on!!

 

Already tried that. Not hanging out enough to grab it with vise grips...just keep slipping off. Thanks for the advice though.