Intro to fitting 35s (< 3" Lifts for those that wheel and love alignments)

This guy is rubbing his 35's on his high clearance front bumper. I was hoping to avoid rubbing issues on the front by replacing the front bumper, but I guess life is not always that easy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jXdkP5Z3Tq4

Maybe 33's are the sweet spot.

 

LOL this is actually spot on. This is pretty much what I did, I figured I would just buy them and figure it out later

I need to find a picture of them stuffed but I have a crawl control video on my IG that shows the wheel cycling inside the fender.

 

Tire will get more negative camber the closer it gets to bump

Stay off of the instalander YouTube videos, those guys are idiots. All they are doing is regurgitating information that first came from here. Almost all of them have no understanding of what they are doing since not only do they not use their trucks they don't even install their own parts.

 

This guy is very adamant that you need aftermarket adjustable UCAs to fit a 35. I'm OK with buying adjustable UCAs if they are actually required. I might have to find out the hard way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1304s4crMU

 

Are we still talking about if UCA's are needed for 35s?

 

Well obviously. I'm just gathering information from all sources available. I'm not sure if you have read the entire thread.

 

I've found some decent information in his videos, but also some misinformation, but that is par for the course For example, he says removing a sway bar increases the chance of the truck rolling over, but I do not think there is much truth in that. AFAIK, roll does not change the position of the center of gravity, thus does not change the moment arm of the lateral acceleration of the truck while turning that would cause it to roll over. I wasn't super sure of myself, so I went to wikipedia and it seems to agree with me.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-roll_bar

"Anti-roll bars provide two main functions. The first function is the reduction of body lean. The reduction of body lean is dependent on the total roll stiffness of the vehicle. Increasing the total roll stiffness of a vehicle does not change the steady state total load (weight) transfer from the inside wheels to the outside wheels, it only reduces body lean. The total lateral load transfer is determined by the CG height and track width."

I assume "CG" is an abbreviation for center of gravity.

It then goes on to talk about how body roll affects understeer/oversteer.

Ronny Dahl's informational videos are some of the best I have watched. He doesn't drive a Taco though.

 

I ran 35s on a bone stock suspension for 1000miles under the right conditions I could get the tire to rub the outside of the UCA, a change in back spacing would have completely eliminated the UCA rubbing. Also rubbed at the front of the wheel well on hard bottom outs, but they do that regardless of suspension

 

This because min rim width for the bigger tires like 35s is 8.5"

This our wings stop about an inch or so before the fenderwell. People stuffing bigger tires run into issues with the wheel well before the bumper.

 

I bent my XDs slightly compared to my methods that took a lot of the same abuse and never bent. And seeing some of those wheels I can believe it.

 

I have my 315s on a 7.5" wheel and love it. Almost looks like a tall skinny, and it holds that bead for dear life offroad.

 

Waste of time (wikipedia agreed, soooooo......) I've already suggest that an education in all those things including ICs and dynamics of suspension would be a good lesson which obviously that worked.

And people argue if 33s will fit

OK you need to get this thing on 37s and get it low like that!!!! Sexy I'm a little biased to the Traillimo though

 

Hah! I've been looking for a pic and experiences with 35's and no lift.

This morning I was contemplating whether I should do all these mods one by one so that I know how they affect the truck in isolation. It would likely mean getting multiple alignments, but they seem relatively inexpensive. What order do you think is best? Tires, suspension, armor, winch? Armor, suspension, tires, winch? A different order? Note that I already have 150 lb sliders.

[I came within 1/2" of dragging my left slider over a rock at a OHV park a couple weekends ago, but so far they are unscratched.]

 

Ya those look super narrow. My tentative plan is 16x8 4.25bs steel rims, partly because I can get a special price on a set and they don't have any other backspacing options.

 

If you have to ask those questions, then 35’s are not for you, right now...you need to get out more and learn your truck and get some experience behind the wheel.

 

OK, Dad.

 

It depends on your use of the truck and build plan, how deep your wallet is, etc.

For myself, I always start with recovery so winch bumper came first, followed by armor, when weight became a significant factor I upgraded the suspension and I did so understanding the long term build plan, then got 35s, prepped the truck to fit, added a rear bumper GFC etc.

You can wheel the truck stock, I added items as their risk factor increased mainly because I was doing trails that needed obvious upgrades.

 

Well....what rim?

 

SearArtist can be a little raw. But his point is good. Get out there and see what you like, don't like, that way you'll find out what upgrade will be the most useful next time out

 

They're OEM wheels on earlier Tundras and Sequoias. I'm just running wheel spacers with them.