AR-15 BS Thread

I was extremely impressed by the performance of the Sig 30 cal QD can on a 9” 300BLK, Griffin has a video on their YouTube showing meter performance and the Sig van was very close to the griffin cans and then pulled ahead for 300BLK sub Sonics, I think Sig tuned their can to sound optimal on the rattler hence the slight gain there but slight loss against .308 and other calibers.

 

Man that link is confusing. The serial number seems to have different requirements than the rest of the markings. I'm not sure if the barrel is a kosher spot for the serial number by that link. CTRL+F for barrel shows every marking other than the serial number can be on the barrel, but the serial must be on the frame/receiver.

 

I was confused too (that is the beauty of an archaic document written in the 30s - requires an interpreter every time you need clarification), so I pulled the manual (ATF weapons are nothing to leave to chance). Normal serialization for an AR is done on the receiver only. NFA markings can be on the reciever (upper/lower) or barrel. They are required to be at least 1/16 in height and visible without having to disassemble the weapon. They are to include the trust/owners name, city and state.

 

If I'm understanding this right, the NFA requirements do not include a serial number then?

 

In order to complete the Form One. The receiver must have a unique serial. The NFA markings are separate from the serial number

 

Interesting, I'm starting to understand now.

 

When the receiver is manufactured, it is serialized to meet ATF requirements for manufacturing. The serial is unique in the ATF database. To SBR the weapon, you apply via Form 1 using that serial number. If it is to be owned by an individual, you will mark the weapon (frame or barrel) with the owners name, city and state. If it is to be owned by a trust, it is marked with the trust name, city and state. The markings must be complete with a tax stamp in hand before the SBR is completed (by you) or transferred to you by an FFL.

Many of us get around the last step of assembly by starting the weapon in a "pistol configuration." Once we have the tax stamp, we convert the pistol to rifle by adding a stock rather than a brace.

 

For an example this is the engraving from when I form 1’d my SBR.

 

Remember where I said the NFA rules require an interpreter? Well the "interpretation" of those rules by the ATF changes with the wind. Several years ago pistol braces were interpreted as allowed. Then the ATF said they were allowed but could not be shouldered. The current reading is allow with no interpretation on their potential use as a makeshift stock. If you see where I am going, AR pistols are in a gray area, that can change the next time someone in the white house gets a bug up their ass.

 

The real question is whether marking the barrel is “conspicuous”? Some revolvers have serials on the frame under the grips, the caliber markings are on the barrel under the handguard, and my SAR3 rail has gaping cutouts where you can read my name, city and state quite easily. So I feel it’s kosher.

 

Picked up a special run WW Carbon Fiber not too long ago and swapped out a few things. Final thing was trigger replacement. Went with the ALG Defense ACT. Nice affordable upgrade to standard mil-spec.

 

I appreciate any advice/insight you give buddy. I’m going into this blind and just trying to look at all my options and compare them

 

What y’all know about these mounts and this company? They’re plastered all over my Amazon when Im shopping around...
Monstrum Slim Profile Series Offset Cantilever Picatinny Scope Mount | 30 mm Diameter

$30 Monstrum Slim Profile Series Offset Cantilever Picatinny Scope Mount | 30 mm Diameter | Flat Dark Earth

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2S9255/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QhBKEbB28R624

 

Just as your prep works determines the quality of your welds or your paint job the quality of your scope rings will determine if you’re scope holds zero or not (assuming it’s not a $50 scope) so go with quality.

 

I agree with this but FWIW I bought a Monstrum quad rail hand guard for my cheap .22 LR upper build and was impressed with how well built it was for the price. It's mostly a range toy and I haven't been too rough on it though so I can't comment on how it holds up to abuse.

 

Hmm, picking an optic for my 12.5" 6.8 SPC that currently wears a nilon prostaff 3-9x40, the question is should I go 2-12 or 3-18? I'm thinking 2-12 because standard hunting range is under 150 yards.

 

Putting together a build list for an 11.5" 556, what do you guys think?

 

What lower you going to get?

 

I’ve got an SBR’d CMMG lower and a PSA lower that’s engraved to become an SBR but is in a pistol configuration right now.