Wanting to hook up a 4 ch amp

Hey guys,
So I have decided on an amp. Alpine MRV-F300. (https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500MRVF300/Alpine-MRV-F300.html) I put 2 old pairs of JL CXI Coaxial speakers in a few months ago and I want crisp and clean music. I am not doing any subs and am keeping my headunit. The amp is $150 on Amazon.

So i have a noob question. I have never installed a 4 ch amp and also never installed into factory stereo before. Realistically I would like to not have to spend more money than I have to when I just want that extra kick in my speakers, mainly so I can listen to music with the windows down. With that being said, could I just buy a cheap LOC or would I need to buy an audiocontrol LCi? I would appreciate all information or tips or even criticism towards my plan. My main thing is trying to get a good signal to power my speakers. And I'm sure I can youtube/google how to hook up 4 channels.

Thanks yall

 

You don't even need to get a LOC to run this if you don't plan on getting an Sub. This comes with an 8 pin harness for speaker input. So you need to extend the 8 speakers wires (or 4 if you just want the fronts) to the included AMP harness FROM the head unit. You then run the speaker wire output from the truck into the wire harness from into the truck harness behind the stereo. Easiest would be to buy a male and female 1761 adapter and make a t harness. What year truck do you have? I am putting a amp in my 2020 and harness is different.

 

2013. So if I will be getting signal already from connecting my speakers? I didn't think about that. Ill have to look into that 1761 adapter.

 

Think of it like this: Truck dash wire harness > 70-1761 > Speaker wire out from amp > alpine amp > speaker wire in from head unit > 71-1761 reverse adapter > head unit

For the non speaker wires you would just wire up the 70-1761 to the 71-1761. So for the Constant 12v, switched 12v, ground, dimmer, antenna turn on. The colors should be the same. You will probably want to send a switched 12v to the amp as well to give it a remote turn on wire, it might have auto sensing but people say that can be unreliable.

So if you don't want to cut your factory harness you will need these:

$8 Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness Fits Select 1987-UP Toyota Vehicles Power + 4 Speaker (Packaging May Vary)

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-176...s=71-1761&qid=1586378722&s=electronics&sr=1-4

Scosche SU03RB Compatible with 1993-2012 Subaru Power/Speaker Connector/Wire Harness for Re-Installing The Factory Stereo with Color Coded Wires

https://www.amazon.com/SCOSCHE-TA02...erse+1761&qid=1586378770&s=electronics&sr=1-9

These are just some of the cheapest ones on Amazon.

 

Is this a common way of hooking up 4ch? It's definitely looks to be the most inexpensive way of doing it.

 

Its probably the cleanest way of doing it if you want to keep your factory radio. Aftermarket you would just use the RCA out connections. You will need to run power to amp as well with the correct gauge wire and fuse.

 

This video would be really helpful for you:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMWsPY0CmZE

These guys are amazing for car audio tips.

 

Ill check it out, thanks for the help!

 

Very informative. Thanks for that. So all I would need would be the two harness (70 & 71), my install kit, and some of that 9-speaker wire?

I was able to follow along with the video up until he started putting together the T-harness with the metra's but Ill be able to figure it out after a couple more watches.

 

Yeah not everything in the video would apply to you but that speed wire (9 wire) would make things super simple for running wires to and from the amp and be pretty clean. And then the two harnesses (70 and 71). I would suggest soldering everything but you could use butt connectors as well. Don't use wire nuts that you get from the hardware store!

 

What he said is on point.. great info

 

Okay so I’ve read this thread -
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...y-t-harness-16-19.642415/page-5#post-23114328 .
I noticed how a lot of guys aren’t running power from their battery with the Kicker key. Since this amp is a little bigger, would I need to run power and ground also?

 

I always run a units own ground and power just to be safe but many don’t and don’t have issues. I would definitely run power and ground on the alpine amp you’ve got. The alpine power pack would be the equivalent to the kicker key and it’s smaller than your 300w amp so yes you need to run power and fuse it within 18” of battery positive. Ground can be anywhere within 3-4 feet from your amp mounting spot just make sure it’s grounded on bare metal. There are a couple factory ground points at the front of both seats in front row that is popular to use(the less distance the better with ground) an 8 gauge amp kit is what id recommend and preferably ofc with a 35-40amp In line fuse depending on what alpine specs call for. Just my opinion

 

Don’t use copper clad aluminum (CCA). The aluminum strands deteriorate over time and you would have to double the thickness of the power wire for the equivalent of OFC. The best place I’ve found for all OFC wiring is knukonceptz.com.

 

+1 for knuconcepts being good quality at good price and definitely would go with OFC... NO CCA at all!

 

Easy man

 

Thanks guys